Spotlight: Recycling Crisis

Re:inventex Builds Scalable Textile Recycling Solutions from Wartime Ukraine

As the circular economy gains traction, Ukrainian firm Re:inventex is emerging as a key player in scalable textile recycling through mechanical innovation and pragmatic adaptation. The company’s Development Manager, Tetiana Pushkarova, explains how they navigate fibre challenges, material complexity, and regulatory uncertainty—while building real-world recycling solutions that connect industry, policy and sustainability goals across Europe.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Re:inventex uses mechanical recycling to retain fibre integrity and produce higher-quality recycled outputs.
  • Manual sorting and localised processing allow Re:inventex to adapt to complex, mixed-fibre waste streams.
  • Based in Ukraine, the company combines operational resilience with EU-aligned sustainability goals.
R:inventex focuses on mechanical recycling as the most mature and currently scalable approach to processing textile waste, particularly in a reality where mixed fibre compositions are widespread. It relies on mechanical defibration technology that enables them to disassemble textiles while preserving fibre length and structure more effectively than conventional shredding. This enhances both the quality and range of applications for the recovered fibres.
disassembling textiles R:inventex focuses on mechanical recycling as the most mature and currently scalable approach to processing textile waste, particularly in a reality where mixed fibre compositions are widespread. It relies on mechanical defibration technology that enables them to disassemble textiles while preserving fibre length and structure more effectively than conventional shredding. This enhances both the quality and range of applications for the recovered fibres. R:inventex

texfash: Re:inventex positions itself at the intersection of technology, recycling, and textile innovation. Could you unpack the core technological processes you employ in transforming post-industrial and post-consumer textile waste—and how these differ from conventional recycling techniques in terms of both efficiency and fibre integrity?
Tetiana Pushkarova: At Re:inventex, we focus on mechanical recycling as the most mature and currently scalable approach to processing textile waste, particularly in a reality where mixed fibre compositions are widespread. We rely on mechanical defibration technology that enables us to disassemble textiles while preserving fibre length and structure more effectively than conventional shredding. This enhances both the quality and range of applications for the recovered fibres.

We’re fully aware of the challenges. The presence of elastane, synthetic coatings, or technical finishes can significantly hinder recycling outcomes. That’s why we approach our work as an ongoing process of experimentation and improvement. We are piloting various pre-treatment solutions and collaborating with technology partners to test enhancements to our current production lines.

One example of this in practice is our collaboration with corporate clients to recycle used uniforms that would otherwise go to waste. As part of their ESG strategies, we help them not only manage waste more responsibly but also turn it into new materials for practical reuse. The recycled fibres are converted into insulation, protective packaging, or other nonwoven products tailored to their business needs. This approach helps demonstrate how circularity can deliver both environmental benefit and real industrial utility.

A persistent bottleneck in textile-to-textile recycling is fibre sorting and material separation, especially with multi-fibre blends. What specific innovations or methodologies has Re:inventex developed or adopted to tackle this problem, and how scalable are these solutions in the broader context of European or global recycling infrastructure?
Tetiana Pushkarova: Fibre sorting remains one of the biggest technical and economic hurdles in textile recycling, particularly for mixed-material fabrics. At Re:inventex, we’ve adopted a pragmatic approach that combines manual sorting with basic composition testing and pre-sorting based on visual and tactile assessments. This allows us to meet current client needs and maintain flexibility with diverse input streams.

While this approach is not scalable in its current form, it provides us with critical experience and insight into the practical challenges of sorting. We’re also engaged in broader industry discussions around Digital Product Passports and standardised labelling. These tools, if implemented effectively, could radically improve traceability and enable more consistent sorting methods across the value chain.

We don’t claim to have solved the sorting problem - far from it. But by staying active in experimentation and by contributing what we learn to collective industry efforts, we hope to help advance scalable solutions for textile-to-textile recycling in Europe and beyond.

Your company is based in Ukraine—a country that has faced significant geopolitical and economic disruptions. How has this shaped your operations, logistics, and strategy for international collaboration? Has the situation led to any unanticipated innovation or resilience-building within your supply or value chains?
Tetiana Pushkarova: Operating from Ukraine during wartime has required a complete rethinking of how we manage operations, partnerships, and long-term planning. We’ve faced disruptions in logistics, power supply, and market stability, but these constraints have also accelerated our capacity to adapt. We’ve localised and diversified our supply chains, invested in energy-efficient solutions, and streamlined internal processes for greater agility.

This context has also shaped our view of international cooperation. As a candidate country to the EU, Ukraine is in the process of aligning with European sustainability and waste management regulations. That gives us both a challenge and an advantage: we must modernise quickly, but we’re doing so from a relatively flexible regulatory environment. Combined with lower labour costs and geographic proximity to EU markets, this gives us a unique position to support Europe’s circular transition.

We're still building, still learning, but our resilience is now part of our identity. We want to turn the lessons of this experience into long-term value, and into a role within Europe’s evolving circular economy.

Much of the conversation around circularity today risks becoming performative, especially when filtered through the lens of brand marketing. How does Re:inventex ensure that your recycling and material regeneration processes aren’t just technically sound but also verifiably circular, and accountable in terms of real-world environmental impact?
Tetiana Pushkarova: We believe circularity must be measured by outcomes, not just intentions. That’s why we go beyond declarations. Each processed batch at Re:inventex is tracked, and where possible, we provide clients with documentation and traceability information. We collaborate closely with partners to ensure that recycled materials are not only reused but reintegrated into meaningful applications, avoiding downcycling where possible.

We are also engaging in early lifecycle analysis and impact tracking for selected product streams, recognising that transparency is a continuous process. Our systems aren’t perfect, and we are still building capacity, but we see integrity and accountability as core to our role in the circular economy. Rather than market ourselves as flawless, we focus on practical progress and shared learning.

According to you, what are the most urgent regulatory or policy changes needed to accelerate textile recycling across Europe and its neighbouring regions? Where do current Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) frameworks succeed or fall short—and how should recyclers like Re:inventex be shaping this conversation?
Tetiana Pushkarova: The most urgent need is to establish a common policy framework that both prioritises recycling over landfilling and ensures that EPR schemes are clear, enforceable, and supportive of operational realities. Current EPR systems are too fragmented and often fail to engage those who are actually doing the recycling. Without clarity on responsibilities and sufficient financial backing, meaningful change is difficult.

At Re:inventex, we believe that effective policy should be shaped through ongoing, inclusive dialogue between recyclers, manufacturers, policymakers, and researchers. Recyclers bring a unique operational perspective, grounded in the realities of infrastructure limitations, material diversity, and processing constraints, that is often missing from top-down regulatory frameworks.

We see great value in building stronger bridges between industry and policy through multi-stakeholder platforms such as EURATEX at the European level and Ukrlegprom in Ukraine. These organisations help foster constructive exchange and align diverse interests across the value chain. Strengthening such collaboration is key to creating policies that are not only ambitious but also implementable and grounded in practical experience.

We would also emphasise the importance of broader waste management reform. When landfilling remains the cheapest and easiest option, circular models have little chance to scale. Legally restricting landfill access for textiles and embedding recycling as a higher-order obligation could fundamentally shift market behavior.

From our Ukrainian perspective, we are in the process of aligning our national regulations with EU law, and this is a chance to get it right from the start. Ukraine offers a cost-effective, agile manufacturing base close to European markets. With the right frameworks, we can become a valuable regional partner in delivering the EU’s circular economy goals.

Tetiana Pushkarova
Tetiana Pushkarova
Development Manager
Re:inventex

Fibre sorting remains one of the biggest technical and economic hurdles in textile recycling, particularly for mixed-material fabrics. At Re:inventex, we’ve adopted a pragmatic approach that combines manual sorting with basic composition testing and pre-sorting based on visual and tactile assessments.

The most urgent need is to establish a common policy framework that both prioritises recycling over landfilling and ensures that EPR schemes are clear, enforceable, and supportive of operational realities. Current EPR systems are too fragmented and often fail to engage those who are actually doing the recycling. Without clarity on responsibilities and sufficient financial backing, meaningful change is difficult.
common policy framework? The most urgent need is to establish a common policy framework that both prioritises recycling over landfilling and ensures that EPR schemes are clear, enforceable, and supportive of operational realities. Current EPR systems are too fragmented and often fail to engage those who are actually doing the recycling. Without clarity on responsibilities and sufficient financial backing, meaningful change is difficult. Re:inventex

What role do you see for textile recyclers like Re:inventex in influencing design for recyclability at the brand and manufacturer level? Are you engaging directly with fashion brands or textile producers to close the loop upstream—and if so, what are the most promising or frustrating aspects of those collaborations?
Tetiana Pushkarova: At Re:inventex, we actively engage with fashion brands, textile producers, and universities to share practical, hands-on insights about what works, and what doesn’t, in real-world recycling. Our mission is to help ensure that product development reflects the true complexity of sorting, material separation, and fibre recovery from the outset.

We’ve seen the most constructive collaboration with young or sustainability-driven brands and agile manufacturers. These partners are more likely to value circularity and are open to experimentation. However, we face significant barriers when working with large-scale or long-established manufacturers. Unless they are forced to act, most are extremely slow to change core production processes, especially if those changes affect speed, costs, or familiar workflows.

This inertia is particularly problematic given what lies ahead. The EU’s upcoming Digital Product Passport, set to become mandatory in 2027 for all textile products sold in the EU regardless of manufacturing origin, will force a system-wide shift. Yet many suppliers, especially outside the EU, are still unaware of the urgency or scale of change required.

At Re:inventex, we attend industry workshops, lectures, and policy briefings to stay informed and act as a knowledge bridge for our network. We also run continuous awareness campaigns with local producers. Still, we regularly encounter low awareness, limited preparedness, and a lack of perceived urgency. Many manufacturers view circularity as a distant issue or simply a “compliance box” to tick.

We’ve learned that influence is a long-term process. We don’t claim to have all the answers, but we bring field-tested experience, and we’re committed to co-creating scalable, workable solutions. True collaboration starts with shared understanding, and we’re working to build it, even when the conversation is difficult.

Operating from Ukraine during wartime has required a complete rethinking of how we manage operations, partnerships, and long-term planning. We’ve faced disruptions in logistics, power supply, and market stability, but these constraints have also accelerated our capacity to adapt.

 

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted 6 June 2025
  • Last modified 6 June 2025