Machine embroidery could be further automated if the ‘OriStitch’ developed at the Cornell Ann S Bowers College of Computing and Information Science moves beyond prototypes as it simplifies manual processes like hand-pleating and maybe even seams.
In tests, the software successfully converted 26 out of 28 test models used in related papers in the field of computational fabrication. The team of researchers also successfully fabricated a cap, vase cover and handbag using OriStitch.
THE RESEARCH: The new software and fabrication system takes simple 3D objects like a toy or a teapot, and spins them into a design for a textile version using carefully placed stitches on fabric. It makes textile folding easier, enabling personalised 3D forms shaped from flat patterns, and also embed smart functions like sensing before the fabric transforms into 3D.
- This approach is more efficient and accessible than existing machine embroidery – and could be a creative boon for areas such as fashion, architecture and smart textiles, according to researchers.
- Folding fabric into 3D geometries is time-consuming and current approaches either rely on manual processes – like in hand-pleating – which is labour-intensive, or advanced machine-based processes. But designs made with OriStitch fold themselves when exposed to heat.
- OriStitch can be used with a wide range of materials, like leather, felt, woven fabric, and composite fabrics. By making textile folding easier, the researchers hope to unlock its broader potential – enabling personalised 3D forms shaped from flat patterns, and making it possible to embed smart functions like sensing before the fabric transforms into 3D.
- OriStitch’s core innovation lies in its design of fully closed hinges, each formed by a pair of triangles that are pulled closed when the heat-shrinking polyester thread, called chizimi, contracts. First, OriStitch converts a user input 3D triangle-mesh model into a 2D configuration, producing a network of hinges. Then the tool computes the functional patterns for each hinge’s geometries, generating a fabrication-ready plan for both laser cutting and embroidery.
- Users can then fabricate the design: The laser cutter scores the mountain and valley folds to create sharp creases and trims away the excess fabric. An embroidery machine stitches all functional threads – including the heat-shrink thread – according to the generated layout. After embroidery, the piece is soaked in water to dissolve the water-soluble support stitches, and finally heat-treated, causing the chizimi threads to contract and pull all hinges closed, forming the target 3D shape.
- OriStitch is compatible with existing hardware and fabrics. This practicality and utility is expected to sync well with existing workflows in industry.
- The OriStitch approach could go beyond uniform textiles and develop machine workflows for a much broader range of materials – especially those with diverse structural variations, such as seams that are difficult for other fabrication methods to handle.
THE TEAM & FUNDING: The researchers presented their innovation in a paper, ‘OriStitch: A Machine Embroidery Workflow to Turn Existing Fabrics into Self-Folding 3D Textiles’ recently by Senior Author Thijs Roumen who is assistant professor of information science at Cornell Tech.
- Zekun Chang, a doctoral student in the field of information science at Cornell Tech, is the paper’s lead author.
- The other authors include: Yixuan Gao, doctoral student in the field of computer science at Cornell Tech; Yuta Noma from the University of Toronto, Canada; Shuo Feng, doctoral student in the field of information science at Cornell Tech; Xinyi Yang of Georgia Institute of Technology; Kazuhiro Shinoda, Tung Ta, Koji Yatani, Tomoyuki Yokota, Takao Someya, Tomohiro Tachi, Yoshihiro Kawahara, and Koya Narumi, all from the University of Tokyo; and François Guimbretière, professor of information science.
- This work was partially supported by JST Adopting Sustainable Partnerships for Innovative Research Ecosystem (ASPIRE).
