To Remain Competitive Globally, Surat Must Embrace Sustainability

Richa Bansal: Could you elaborate on some of the pending patents?
Arup Rakshit: In total, we have 6–7 projects active in different stages. The patents for two have already been granted—one for a polyester fabric clearing system and one for a textile processing system to reduce water consumption. Twelve more are pending.

Among these, one is for extracting fibre from parali using a chemical process. The fibres are soft and flexible. Another is for a thermo-acoustic material—a blend of parali fibre, wool fibre, and another fibre—that can be used in automobiles for ceilings and cabins to reduce engine noise and insulate heat. We are also developing antimicrobial resistance wound pads. These help wounds heal faster by restricting microbial growth, particularly bacteria resistant to common antibiotics identified by WHO. Laboratory trials are done. Additionally, we are working on biodegradable seedling pods from waste wool in Mehsana, Gujarat. About 4,000 tonnes of coarse wool go to landfill every year. These pods will provide income for farmers and reduce waste.

Richa Bansal: You mentioned antimicrobial resistance wound pads. Could you explain further?
Arup Rakshit: Medical textiles are a key part of technical textiles. With rising healthcare needs, this is an area of huge potential. Open wounds often heal slowly because of infection. Our idea is to create wound pads that inhibit microbial activity, speeding healing. The novelty is that we are targeting bacteria identified by the WHO as resistant to antibiotics. Hydro-entanglement technology is used to make the pads. Hydro-entanglement technology itself is not new, but targeting resistant bacteria in this way is unique. It makes the product a potential breakthrough in medical textiles. Laboratory trials are done, and we are preparing a patent.

We will then conduct extended clinical trials in collaboration with medical institutions. Once validated, we can commercialise the product.

Richa Bansal: Could you also detail the thermo-acoustic material project?
Arup Rakshit: Parali stalks are treated chemically, through a process we have developed to extract usable fibres. These fibres are soft and flexible. The thermo-acoustic material is a blend of parali fibre, wool fibre, and one more fibre. The exact composition is proprietary, but the idea is to combine strength, flexibility, and insulation properties. The composite material has sound-dampening and insulating properties. In automobiles it can be used in ceilings and cabins to reduce engine noise and regulate temperature. It could make cars quieter and more comfortable.

We test for both thermal insulation and acoustic performance. For sound, we measure decibel reduction inside a simulated cabin. For heat, we test how much the material reduces temperature transfer. Early results show promise.

The patent is pending. Approval usually takes 2–3 years.

Richa Bansal: Tell us about the wool pod project in Mehsana.
Arup Rakshit: In north Gujarat, near Mehsana and Ahmedabad, there are many smallscale sheep farmers. The sheep grow hair that is sheared once a year, but the quality of the wool is poor compared to what we get in Himachal Pradesh. In Himachal, the wool can be processed directly into useful products. But the Mehsana breed produces coarse fibres that cannot be processed on standard woollen machinery. As a result, the wool usually goes to waste.

Richa Bansal: How much wool is wasted?
Arup Rakshit: Each sheep produces around one and a half kilograms of wool per year. With about 1.2 million sheep in the region, nearly 4,000 tonnes of wool go to landfills annually.

Richa Bansal: And your plan is to convert this into biodegradable seedling pods?
Arup Rakshit: Exactly. These pods would serve the same purpose as the parali cups. They are biodegradable, sustainable, and they create a source of income for local farmers. Besides, it would also reduce landfill waste.

The project is both technical and social. The wool decomposes naturally. Farmers who currently earn nothing from it could benefit if the pods are made viable. The wool pods could also be used in horticulture and nurseries. We have submitted the project proposal to DSIR for funding.

Richa Bansal: What about Surat’s saree waste, the “chindi”? I am told that the chindi is simply discarded or burned in boilers as fuel. I was shocked to learn that some factories substitute 20–30% coal with chindi, burning it at night, often between midnight and dawn, because coal is expensive. This is extremely polluting as it releases toxic emissions. 
Arup Rakshit: Waterjet looms used for polyester or nylon saree production generate selvedge waste called chindi. Millions of metres of sarees are produced daily. Chindi is unique to Surat’s polyester saree industry, and we need to solve it locally. Chindi can be recycled into yarn. It can also be converted into handicrafts. We are working on both possibilities.

Our project is to recycle chindi into yarn or handicrafts like foot brushes, pipe wrappings, and decorative items. We have applied to DSIR for support. The project may not be high revenue — perhaps ₹10 lakh–₹20 lakh—but its social and environmental benefits are important.

Richa Bansal: Surat is a polyester hub, and it’s a no-brainer that polyester is polluting. What is MANTRA doing about this? What do your audits show?
Arup Rakshit: Recycling is already a set process—companies like Reliance recycle PET bottles into polyester fibre. But microfibres remain a global challenge. They escape from households and factories into water bodies, even after filtration.

Each year the GPCB (Gujarat Pollution Control Board) assigns us 8–10 industries. We audit water, air, and solid waste pollution, including heavy metals. We are promoting Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD). It is costly but necessary. We are planning seminars with the Chamber of Commerce. Our environment department also conducts audits, recognised by GPCB.

Richa Bansal: Have you considered publishing consolidated reports?
Arup Rakshit: Not yet. We submit directly to the GPCB. But consolidating findings into an annual report is a good idea for the future.

Richa Bansal: How do Indian standards compare with Europe?
Arup Rakshit: India is gradually aligning with international norms, just as with BS6 emission standards in automobiles. Audit credibility is ensured because GPCB requires qualified environmental and chemical engineers in audit teams.

Richa Bansal: MSMEs are said to be the least receptive to sustainability measures and compliances as their focus by and large is on generating profit. Many rarely care about pollution or the impact on health. Policies alone cannot change that. What can be done to bring about this cultural shift?
Arup Rakshit: Structured sensitisation programmes are the way forward. Local governments and trade associations need to play stronger roles. Awareness campaigns and training sessions should be ongoing, not one-time events. With continuous sensitisation, behaviour can shift, and compliance can improve.

Richa Bansal: You also mentioned MANTRA’s garment technology department. Could you explain its role?
Arup Rakshit: We launched the department recently. Surat is developing as a garmenting hub, but there is a shortage of skilled labour. This department trains manpower for the garment industry and reskills existing workers. We are affiliated with Kaushalya—The Skill University, established by the Gujarat government.

We currently offer short-term courses in garment technology and fashion design. At present, eight students are enrolled, and more will join in the next academic year.

This initiative is about capacity building. The garment industry needs skilled workers. By providing training, we are addressing that need and also supporting livelihoods.

Richa Bansal: Let’s talk about policy. How closely do you work with government bodies?
Arup Rakshit: Quite closely. Our projects often receive funding from DSIR, SERB, or the Ministry of Textiles. For example, the riverbank reinforcement fabric is funded by SERB, while the wool and chindi projects have been submitted to DSIR. The parali cups are being considered under the National Technical Textiles Mission. We also work with the GPCB for audits. Our role is technical, but we coordinate with government bodies for implementation and compliance.

Richa Bansal: Do you provide inputs for policy formulation?
Arup Rakshit: Not directly. We are not an advocacy organisation. But our work feeds into policy. For example, if our geogrid project succeeds, it may influence road construction norms.

Richa Bansal: Let’s step back a little. MANTRA has been around since 1979. How has its role changed over the years?
Arup Rakshit: In the early years, MANTRA focused mainly on testing and R&D support for the textile industry in Surat. It provided services to weaving units, dyeing units, and processing houses. Over time, the scope expanded. Technical textiles emerged as a new focus area, and MANTRA started taking up projects in geotextiles, medical textiles, and other specialised areas.

Another change has been in sustainability. Earlier, the industry was not very concerned with waste or pollution. Today, sustainability is at the centre of discussions, and MANTRA has aligned itself accordingly. Our projects now are as much about waste reduction and recycling as they are about new products.

Richa Bansal: So, MANTRA has evolved from service provider to innovator? And what about MANTRA’s future direction? What areas will MANTRA focus on in the next few years?
Arup Rakshit: Yes. We still provide services like testing and auditing, but we are also innovators, developing new products, processes, and machines. We will continue our focus on technical textiles, sustainability, and skill development. More specifically:

• Expanding work in geotextiles (geogrids, riverbank fabrics).
• Growing medical textiles (AMR wound pads and related products).
• Developing biodegradable products from waste (parali, wool, chindi).
• Promoting energy efficiency and clean technologies through audits.
• Building garmenting skills through training programmes.

Going forward, we will continue to focus on three pillars:

1. Technical textiles — developing new products for infrastructure, healthcare, and industry.
2. Sustainability — recycling waste, creating biodegradable alternatives, reducing pollution.
3. Skill development — training workers for garmenting and technical textile sectors.

Together, these pillars support both industry growth and environmental responsibility. While technology will provide solutions, training will ensure adoption. Both are essential.

Richa Bansal: Beyond projects and audits, how do you see Surat’s future in textiles? What is your vision for MANTRA’s role in Surat and beyond?
Arup Rakshit: Surat will remain a polyester hub, but sustainability must be prioritised. Recycling, biodegradable alternatives, and technical textiles are the way forward. Compliance with environmental standards will become unavoidable as regulations tighten globally. Our vision is to push textiles towards sustainability. We want to reduce waste, recycle fibres, and develop biodegradable alternatives. At the same time, we are focusing on technical textiles—fabrics and materials that solve practical problems in infrastructure, healthcare, and industry.

Projects like the parali cups, wool pods, and chindi recycling are socially impactful. The geogrid machine, riverbank fabric, thermo-acoustic materials, and AMR wound pads represent technological advancement. Together, they show how innovation and sustainability can go hand in hand.

Richa Bansal: If you had to give one message to Surat’s textile industry today, what would it be?
Arup Rakshit: The message is simple: sustainability is not optional. It is essential. Pollution cannot be ignored. Waste must be recycled. Cleaner technologies must be adopted. If Surat wants to remain competitive globally, it must embrace sustainability.

Richa Bansal: And one message to policymakers?
Arup Rakshit: Support MSMEs with incentives and training. At the same time, enforce rules strictly. Without both support and enforcement, change will be too slow.

Richa Bansal: Finally, looking about five years ahead, where do you see MANTRA?
Arup Rakshit: I see MANTRA as a leader in technical textiles, sustainability, and skill development. I see us creating products that are used in roads, rivers, hospitals, and farms across India. I see us training the workforce that drives this change.

Most importantly, I see MANTRA helping Surat transform from being just a polyester hub to being a global leader in sustainable and innovative textiles.