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2022 Special: The Most Popular Writings of the Year

As our first calendar years draws to an end, texfash.com presents the most popular writings of the year.

Best of 2022 : Editor's Picks

Rant Control / Wealth in Waste

10 October 2022

 17 minutes

The Report on India's Textile Waste Needs a Closer Look and an Update

It is true that this is the first time that an attempt has been made to quantify the textile waste situation in India, and also look at the prospects of making use of this waste. But it's not perfect; and is in fact riddled with loopholes.

The recent study 'Wealth in Waste: India’s Potential to Bring Textile Waste Back Into The Supply Chain' has a problem—that of sample size as well as sample selection. There is an imperative need to revisit the numbers, and bring out an updated/revised edition. A texfash.com analysis.

  • Subir Ghosh
 Commentary
LegalEase / Carry Bags Report
All carry bags before 2011 were given to customers for free, but now retailers—especially chains and brands—now got a new heaven-sent marketing tool: give carry bags, but with a brand identity. Besides, there was money to be made.

Bag Your Pardon: Despite Fines, Retailers Still Charge for Carry Bags

  • Subir Ghosh

10 May 2022
Under Cloud / Higg MSI Report
The NCA said that Norrøna’s use of the Higg MSI will likely leave consumers with an impression that the numbers are true, accurate and descriptive of the specific product shown on norrona.com. However, the Higg MSI is based on global average numbers and not on data from the production of the specific product marketed.

Higg MSI Stands Discredited; Norway Rules Against Norrøna, Warns H&M, Hauls up SAC

  • Subir Ghosh

16 June 2022
Going Circular / Recycle-Raw Report
Recycle-Raw

Looking at a Positive Future: How One Bangladeshi Company is Recycling it Raw

  • Richa Bansal

22 December 2022
Threadbare / Due Diligence 2022 / I Report
In the modern economy, some large manufacturers might be working with thousands or even tens of thousands of first tier suppliers. At the second and third tiers, the numbers grow phenomenally. Suppliers (up and down the chain) also change often for various reasons.

Due Diligence in Cotton Supply Chains Is a Real Challenge

  • Richa Bansal

21 March 2022
 
 

Top 2022 : Specials

SecondHand / Ground Truth
Greenpeace visits places of textile production, distribution, markets and waste disposals. Used and new clothes are sent to Kenya from Europe and China to be sold as so called "Mitumba" but often they end up as landfill and waste disposal due to the huge amount. Here: Textile and plastic waste at Dandora dump site in Nairobi. Marabow storks around.

Africa-unbound: 40% of 'pre-loved' clothing is actually textile waste

  • Special Correspondent
 Report

25 April 2022

A new Greenpeace report finds that the Global North has found a backdoor to get rid of its textile waste and is forcing countries from the Global South to deal with the consequences of fast fashion, even though they have no infrastructure to do so.

The Green Machine is licensed by HKRITA at cost price, meaning it only covers their costs with no extra margins. For H&M Foundation and HKRITA this open-source approach is key to reach maximum impact and to transform the fashion industry.
The recycling process can be configured in a 40-foot container, including the 3-in-1 Integrated Opening-Cleaning-Carding System with AI algorithms to optimise the system.
Non-native Burmese pythons have established a breeding population in South Florida and are one of the most concerning invasive species in Everglades National Park. Pythons compete with native wildlife for food, which includes mammals, birds, and other reptiles. Severe mammal declines in Everglades National Park have been linked to Burmese pythons, according to the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS).
Spider silk claims higher purity and strength compared to traditional mulberry spinner silk. AMSilk views its products as a new class of materials previously unimaginable, providing innovative, sustainable, and smart performing solutions.
 
 

Select 2022 : Spotlight

Close Look Sizing Solutions 2022

Sorry, My Body Doesn’t Match up to Your Sizing Chart

Sizing solution providers cannot be answers in themselves, for they cannot afford to perpetuate another set of exclusionist standards about body types or sizes. Solutions need to come out of the box, or maybe the screen in case of these fashtech companies.

When clothing became an industry and sizing a standard, garments that were once built on last century’s pattern forms standardised for mass production are now giving way to those that recognise that each body is a unique body shape and cannot be formed to one magic number. Will standard sizing be replaced by on-demand manufacturing? texfash.com probes.

Close Look / Sizing Solutions 2022 / I Report
The fashion media is flooded with news about tech developments in fashion retail. In March this year, American departmental store giant Walmart started rolling out the first applications in its app and web store. The idea was to let people choose a model that looked most like them and judge for themselves how the garment would look on them.

Sizing Solutions Thriving, But Industry Slow to Catch up

  • Subir Ghosh

2 May 2022
Threadbare / Due Diligence 2022 / V Report
An illustrative photo. When recyclers currently receive textile waste through the informal waste handling network, they have no access to the background information of their sourced material. As there are no quality control measures in place among informal traders, it is easy to manipulate the quality of the textile waste.

Recycling for Circularity: Bangladesh Shows World How to Do It

  • Richa Bansal

25 March 2022
Threadbare / Due Diligence 2022 / IV Report
A textile waste dump. The fashion industry expects drastic upending due to its resource intensity, environmental impacts such as GHG emissions, and poor ability to protect workers and foster prosperity for all. Circular principles are widely believed to have the potential to offer systemic resolve for these issues and several European level strategies are advancing on this topic.

Recycling for Circularity: Realities from Bangladesh

  • Richa Bansal

24 March 2022
Close Look / Sizing Solutions 2022 / IV Report
The Metaverse Fashion Week, held in March this year, was a combination of high-end designers and wearables vendors selling non-fungible token (NFT) collections in the blockchain-based virtual world.

As Fashion Goes Meta, Sizing Solutions Go off the Charts

  • Subir Ghosh

5 May 2022
 
 

Best of 2022 : Climate

Climate Crisis / LuluCoal
Lululemon’s factories are almost entirely reliant on coal (and other fossil fuels). Every year the company grows without cleaning up its supply chain, it just continues to lock in more fossil fuels in the places where its factories are, like Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangladesh—countries which are bearing the brunt of climate impacts.

Lululemon's Sustainability Report Fails to Hide It Increased Climate Pollution by 60%: Stand.earth

  • Special Correspondent
 Update

19 September 2022

Athleisure major Lululemon’s second Impact Report has inadvertently revealed that the Canadian athleisure giant has increased climate pollution from manufacturing its products by a shocking 60% in just 12 months. This was followed by the company's founder donating CAN$ 100 million to a conservation non-profit.

“Having the right policies, infrastructure and technology in place to enable changes to our lifestyles and behaviour can result in a 40-70% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. This offers significant untapped potential,” said IPCC Working Group III Co-Chair Priyadarshi Shukla. “The evidence also shows that these lifestyle changes can improve our health and wellbeing.”
Not all leather-sourcing regions are equally at risk of deforestation, land degradation, and the mistreatment of animals. Mapping the supply chain and understanding the risks and opportunities associated with different regions is key.
Klarna has partnered with third-party automated software providers to estimate the CO₂e emissions of all purchases.
The readymade garment industry in Bangladesh, which employs 4.4 million people, mostly women, contributes more than 11% to the country's GDP.
 
 

Top 2022 : Exclusives

Legal Wrangle / Trademark

1 April 2022

 5 minutes

In a biZARA twist, Inditex goes with cudgels after one-woman biz

Inditex SA, a multi-billion-dollar apparel company with over 6,000 retail stores worldwide is taking legal action aganst Tara Sartoria, a small artisan-driven clothing business supporting independent artisans and women, for alleged violation of the former's trademark.

Fashion giant Inditex has taken umbrage to a Vietnam-born entrepreneur for using the name 'Tara Sartoria' for a small artisan-driven clothing business that she had founded and was selling through the website tarasartoria.com. A texfash.com report.

  • Subir Ghosh
 Report
Biomaterials / Blueview Pacific Interview
When two surfers with a passion for the planet met in a beachside coffee shop in Cardiff, they had no idea the kind of eco-innovation that would emerge from their unlikely run-in. But when footwear industry expertise meets the most impressive advancement in biotechnology to date, the only choice is to use that fusion for meaningful change: to create the world’s first fully biodegradable* sneaker.

The Story Behind the World's First Biodegradable Footwear: In Their Own Words

  • Subir Ghosh

22 August 2022
Zippers / YKK Interview
YKK

Driving Forces for Zippers Changing, End-Users Will Exert More Influence Soon

  • Subir Ghosh

13 July 2022
Cotton Row / Control Union Interview
India’s overall cotton production of over 360 lakh bales (about 6.12 million tonnes, mt) accounts for around 25% of the global output. The production of organic cotton in India is 1.23 mt, which is 51% of global organic cotton production of 2.40 mt.

Cotton a risk crop, increasing pressure to certify, says Control Union

  • Richa Bansal

18 April 2022
GHG Emissions / SBTI Targets Report
The Adidas Originals flagship store in Berlin, Germany. The German major is the only textiles-apparel company that has exceeded both its Scope 1+2 and Scope 3 targets by a wide margin.

Science-Based Targets: Adidas Races Ahead, 46% Don’t Even Have Data to Share

  • Subir Ghosh

13 May 2022
 
 

Best of 2022 : Columns

Luxury Markets / Ensuing Trends
If “digitalisation” is the quintessential mantra of today's daily living, then, phygital is all about perfectly blending the physical and the virtual space.

Luxury and Phygital Experience: The Next Big Gamechanger

  • Abhay Gupta
 Commentary

22 July 2022

As the Web spins into the Web 4.0 era, which is more immersive, experiential and decentralised, luxury is taking a lead.

India is the second largest producer of footwear and leather garments in the world, with major production centres located in the states of Tamil Nadu, West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra, Punjab,Karnataka, Telengana, Haryana, Delhi, Madhya Pradesh, Kerala, Rajasthan, Jammu & Kashmir. About 3 billion sq ft of leather is produced annually.

Indian Leather Industry's Problems, And the Answers

  • Sateesh Damle
 Analysis

31 May 2022
It took about four months — from ideating the brand, the product range, the marketing angles, the packaging and most importantly the sale points. Some of the top footwear multibrand outlets came on board and offered Inmate — perhaps the only brand to be manufactured by jailbirds in a prison — a space in their stores.

The Brand that Jailbirds Make

  • Divej Mehta
 First Person

30 June 2022
India has recently fast-tracked the process of negotiating and signing trade agreements.

India’s Trade Negotiating Strategies and Options in the Textiles and Apparel Sector

  • Arpita Mukherjee
  • Sagarika Sengupta
 Analysis

5 July 2022
File picture of Reliance Industries Chairman Mukesh Ambani addressing the World Economic Forum in Davos. Reliance Industries plans to invest ₹75,000 crore in its petrochemicals and textile business over the next five years to expand capacities in existing and new value chains.
 
 

Top 2022 : Updates

Retail / NRF Rankings

23 March 2022

 4 minutes

2022 Rankings: Walmart is Still World's Largest Retailer

2022 Rankings: Walmart is Still World's Largest Retailer

The National Retail Federation has released its annual list of the Top 50 Global Retailers. Walmart continues to be the world’s largest retailer, having made significant investments in omnichannel marketplaces, in-store services and fulfillment models.

  • Staff Writer
Update
Durable Fashion / Mexico Findings
The NF0A5J87M19 model of North Face which was picked up by Profeco for testing.

Big Brands Fail Durability Tests; Nike and North Face Are Worst, Finds Mexico’s Consumer Authority

  • Staff Writer

25 October 2022
Going Circular / Bangladesh Facility
An aerial view of the new facility in Dhaka. Bangladesh is the world’s second-largest apparel exporter of readymade garments. In 2019, Bangladesh produced 577,000 tonnes of waste from its readymade garment factories and fabric mills, according to an estimate from Circular Fashion Partnership (CFP).

Recover, BEXIMCO to Set Up Bengladesh's Largest Recycling Facility

  • Staff Writer

26 October 2022
Toxic Fashion / Brand Rankings
NRDC (Natural Resources Defense Council, Fashion FWD, and US PIRG Education Fund have released a scorecard ranking PFAS policy commitments from leading retail and apparel brands. Levi Strauss & Co earned the highest mark for already eliminating PFAS from its supply chain.

Levi Strauss and Victoria's Secret eliminating known carcinogen; most apparel brands cut sorry figure

  • Staff Writer

7 April 2022
Textile History / Excavations
Archaeologists excavate a room at Tsaf where researchers discovered remains of 7,000-year-old cotton fibres.

Made in Indus, Found in Israel: 7000-year-old Cotton Fibres Unearthed by Archaeologists

  • Staff Writer

19 December 2022
 
 

Select 2022 : More Specials

Manmade Fibres / Highlact
Highlact products will biodegrade under certain compost conditions. At a compost temperature of 68°C and a moisture content of around 50%, the compost decomposes in six days flat!

From the Land of Innovation: A T-shirt that Decomposes in Six Days Flat

  • Subir Ghosh
 Feature

26 September 2022

Away from petroleum-based fabrics, comes an innovation — a fibre made from polylactic acid (PLA), a biodegradable plastic made from corn, under the brand name Highlact. Could it be the best material to replace polyester in terms of quality, cost and supply? texfash.com explores.

Based on Textile Exchange's estimated breakdown, in 2020–21, India grew approximately 130,849 tonnes of organic cotton fibre on 230,125 ha of certified organic land. A further 153,004 tonnes of in-conversion fibre was estimated to have been produced on 269,089 ha of land in conversion to organic.
The commercialisation of the high-profile tech collaboration between fashion-forward Italy’s PureDenim and alpha geek Israel’s Sonovia to minimise use of water and enhance dye durability is expected to see the light of day in the second half of the coming year.
This programme represents a first of its kind in India, where primary and site-specific scientific data is captured at scale and verified across participating growers. Soil sampling and data collection will continue next year and each year thereafter to review the progress towards regenerative cotton and climate positivity.
An H&M supplier factory at Seduno, Cambodia.
 
 

Best of 2022 : More Updates

Workwear / Research
This project sought to understand the employee perspective on the impact uniform has on their happiness and productivity in their role, with the aim of placing the employee at the centre of the design and development process.

Better Uniforms Make Employees Happier, University Research Finds

  • Staff Writer
 Update

16 June 2022

The right uniform can have a significant impact on employee wellbeing and productivity in any job role, and wearing a well-made, well-fitting uniform can make employees feel much happier at work—by as much as 22%, says a new research.  texfash.com reports.

The entire Teton x Inversa collection has been made from Inversa Leather’s invasive dragonfin leather, dyed crimson to enhance the extraordinary scale pattern.
The mahogany dye has undergone tests to ensure that it is at par with internationally accepted standards and is free of hazardous chemicals, making it safer for the wearer, the environment and those involved in the manufacturing process. Rich in hues, the exclusive mahogany dye offers 16 hybrid dye colours across different fabric compositions (100% cotton, 100% polyester and poly-cotton blend).
In a take-back scheme, consumers can wear the garment down and then return it by scanning a QR code on the product so that it can be remade.
Organic cotton is grown in agricultural systems that work with nature, rather than against it. The organic way of farming combines tradition, innovation, and science to benefit the environment, promoting fair relationships and improved quality of life for all.
 
 

Top 2022 : Releases

This £4 million seed round comes after only 15 months since launch in mid-2021, during which the mission-driven brand has achieved seven figures in sales within its first year, expanding into twenty-six global markets and partnering with some of the world's most notable retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, to name a few.

Løci Raises a £4 Million Seed Round, As 15-Month-Old Startup Looks to Disrupt Fashion Industry

LONDON, U.K.: British fashion brand Løci launched in mid-2021 with a mission to build the most ethical and aspirational experience for the customer of today. Success for Løci is as much about making an impact as focusing on revenues and brand desirability. Today, the brand announced a £4 million

With a rich history of textile innovation, DuPont has invented groundbreaking fibers such as nylon, Lycra®, and rayon. Its Sorona® brand — made from 37% renewable plant-based ingredients — offers a high-performing, responsibly sourced material option.
INVERSA Leathers, and its innovative design partners, which include OLEADA and Teton Leather Co, have produced a range of high-quality and durable products including a Lionfish laptop sleeve, a Dragonfin clutch and a bi-fold wallet – all made from INVERSA Leather’s invasive leathers.
Miami Swim Week™ The Shows is owned and managed by D.C. Swim Week Shows™ and is the fastest growing luxury fashion show production company specializing in innovative fashion concepts, production, and execution.
A natural and sustainable lifestyle collection has been born through the collaboration of two great Indian families with a combined 120-year history of design innovations steeped in heritage.