Levis Strauss & Co and Victoria's Secret have emerged top among apparel brands in eliminating per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, commonly known as PFAS. Apparel retailers like Kohl's, Nordstrom and JCPenny have come a propper in eliminating PFAS, a large family of an estimated 9,000 human-made chemicals that have been linked to cancer, hormone disruption, liver and kidney damage, developmental and reproductive harm, and damage to the immune system.
The research: The results are from a first-of-its kind scorecard released by NRDC (Natural Resources Defense Council, Inc.), Fashion FWD, and US PIRG Education Fund on 6 April. The score has ranked PFAS policy commitments from a swathe of leading retail and apparel brands.
As a major user of PFAS, the apparel industry can play a key role in eliminating new PFAS pollution by ceasing its use. To see where the industry is, NRDC, Fashion FWD, and US PIRG Education Fund released a scorecard that graded the PFAS-related policies and commitments of 30 top US-based apparel brands and retailers, including brands in the footwear, indoor apparel, and outdoor apparel sectors.
The survey found that the majority of apparel brands and retailers have weak PFAS-related policies—or none at all. This is especially surprising in the outdoor apparel industry, whose customers often value sustainable, non-polluting manufacturing, the organisations said in a statement.
The accompanying study is titled Going Out of Fashion: US Apparel Manufacturers Must Eliminate PFAS "Forever Chemicals" From Their Supply Chains, co-authored by Sujatha Bergen and Yiliqi.
The top findings
- Levi Strauss & Co., Victoria’s Secret, and Decker Brands Lead the Way With Strong PFAS Elimination Policies: The growing list of companies committed to a phaseout of PFAS comprises some of the best-known apparel brands in the United States. Several companies have already eliminated PFAS use in their supply chain. Levi Strauss & Co. leads the industry, followed closely by Victoria’s Secret and Deckers Brands (including UGG, Teva, and others). Keen Footwear also earns high marks for removing the toxic chemicals from its shoes.
- The Majority of Apparel Companies Have Weak Commitments: Of the 30 apparel brands and retailers surveyed, 18 brands and retailers received a grade of D or lower. Some of these companies did not have a publicly available commitment to eliminate any PFAS, while others had pledged to eliminate only PFOA (perfluorooctanoic acid) and PFOS (perfluorooctane sulfonate)—two PFAS chemicals already phased out of use in the United States.
- The Outdoor Industry Lags Behind Customer Values in PFAS Policy: Patagonia received the highest grades of all the outdoor apparel brands surveyed for having established a timeline to eliminate use of all PFAS in its supply chains in the future. However, the remaining U.S. brands within the outdoor apparel sector received surprisingly low grades despite the environmental and public health concerns of many of their customers. REI, VF Corp. (parent of The North Face, Timberland, JanSport, and others) and LL Bean, for instance,
- Inaccurate and Misleading Definitions of PFAS Lead to Consumer Confusion: Many companies use outdated, inaccurate, or misleading definitions of PFAS in their commitments and communications regarding the chemicals. These outdated definitions can result in consumer confusion around whether the products they purchase contain PFAS.
