Collection: Sea Change

How CircularFabrics is Redefining Nylon Recycling Through Low-Impact Chemistry

CircularFabrics is tackling one of synthetic fashion’s toughest challenges—recycling nylon from blended waste—through its pioneering Nyloop technology. Unlike conventional methods, Nyloop preserves polymer integrity without high energy input, offering a sustainable and cost-effective alternative. CEO and Co-Founder Josephine Mayer explains how this process could help brands meet EU circularity goals while building scalable, decentralised recycling systems.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Nyloop by CircularFabrics offers a new way to recycle nylon from blended textile waste without energy-intensive depolymerisation.
  • The process produces virgin-like nylon suitable for fashion, automotive, and industrial use while reducing emissions and cost.
  • CircularFabrics is developing modular recycling units and aligning with EU regulations to enable circularity at scale.
This visualises the process flow: Starting with textile waste, CircularFabrics recovers nylon in the form of powder from the textile matrix. The powder is then transformed into pellets which can be used to spin yarns, for example. .
How it works This visualises the process flow: Starting with textile waste, CircularFabrics recovers nylon in the form of powder from the textile matrix. The powder is then transformed into pellets which can be used to spin yarns, for example. . CircularFabrics

In May this year, the H&M Foundation chose a bunch of 10 innovators with the shared mission of decarbonising the textiles and fashion industry for the Global Change Award 2025.

Among the winners was CircularFabrics from Germany which will be working on high-quality nylon recovery from blended textile waste. The Nyloop technology by CircularFabrics extracts high-quality nylon from blended textile waste without breaking down the fibre, making circular nylon production possible.The founders are Josephine Mayer, Miguel Chacon-Teran and Ruben Serrano.

Each winner receives a €200,000 grant and joins the yearlong GCA Changemaker Programme, delivered by H&M Foundation with strategic partners Accenture and KTH Royal Institute of Technology.

texfash: You have positioned Nyloop as a breakthrough in chemical recycling, particularly for blended textile waste. Could you tell us more? How does this process differ—technically and environmentally—from conventional depolymerisation or mechanical recycling approaches for nylon?
Josephine Mayer: Nyloop is a breakthrough because it allows us to recover high-quality nylon from blended textile waste—something traditional methods struggle with. Unlike mechanical recycling, which needs clean, single-fibre inputs, or depolymerisation, which is energy- and chemical-intensive, Nyloop preserves the nylon’s molecular structure without breaking it down and rebuilding it. This makes the process far more sustainable and cost-efficient, opening the door to wider industry adoption.

Our approach is based on a highly selective chemical process that targets nylon within complex waste streams—even when blended with elastane or polyester. The output is a colourless, virgin-like nylon that meets industrial standards for yarn production, ready to be reintegrated into the supply chain.

It’s not just about recycling nylon—it’s about enabling a circular, scalable system that works with the realities of modern textile waste.

The industry has long grappled with the technical and commercial challenges of recycling nylon from mixed waste streams. What were the biggest engineering or material science barriers you had to overcome in developing Nyloop? And yes, how did you manage to preserve polymer integrity without compromising output quality?
Josephine Mayer: One of the major technical hurdles has been selectively isolating intact nylon polymers from highly mixed waste streams. By closely studying nylon’s specific physico-chemical properties, we’ve developed a process that favours the recovery of these polymers while minimising disruption to other materials.

Our R&D has focused heavily on purification—particularly removing dyes, finishes, and contaminants. While we are still in the optimisation phase, our lab-scale results have shown encouraging levels of polymer integrity and purity, which gives us confidence as we move toward pilot-scale validation.

You mentioned that Nyloop enables the production of outputs like powder, pellets, or yarns. What are the performance characteristics of these outputs compared to virgin nylon? This is significant. How do they behave across different end-use applications such as fashion, automotive or maritime industries?
Josephine Mayer: Our goal is to produce recycled nylon outputs that are functionally comparable to virgin nylon in key areas such as strength, durability, and processability. So far, our lab-scale materials have demonstrated promising performance in tests for textile and other industrial uses.

In fashion, they’ve shown the potential to match the flexibility and softness of premium nylon yarns. In industrial contexts—such as automotive or maritime applications—we’re exploring how the materials can meet more stringent performance needs. We’re currently preparing for more extensive validation testing in collaboration with potential partners.

One of the key differentiators you've cited is cost-effectiveness—a critical pain point in textile-to-textile recycling. How have you managed to reduce energy consumption and CO₂ emissions while also making the economics work, particularly at this early TRL 5 [Technology Readiness Level 5] stage?
Josephine Mayer: Our approach is designed for simplicity and efficiency. By avoiding depolymerisation and repolymerisation steps, we significantly reduce process complexity, energy input, and reliance on high temperatures. We're also working with a closed-loop system that employs reusable, low-impact chemicals to further reduce operational costs and emissions.

At TRL 5, we’re focused on refining a scalable batch process and transitioning toward a continuous-flow model. Our projections at this stage suggest commercial viability of our approach at scale, which will be further validated as we move toward pilot deployment.

Circularity in synthetics often breaks down at scale due to issues around feedstock consistency and availability. What are your strategies for diversifying input streams? More important, how are you addressing the logistical and sorting challenges that come with textile and maritime waste?
Josephine Mayer: Feedstock variability is a major barrier to scaling circular systems for synthetics, and it's something we've prioritised from the start. Europe provides a strong foundation thanks to regulation-led efforts like mandatory textile collection and EPR schemes, which are increasing feedstock quality and volume.

We're also exploring high-nylon input streams, such as discarded fishing gear, which aligns with our technology's ability to work with complex blends. To address sorting and transport challenges, we’re building partnerships with collectors, logistics providers, and brands to co-develop efficient take-back models. Our long-term vision includes the development of portable recycling modules and regional facilities in high-feedstock areas—but we're taking a phased approach, validating each step carefully.

Josephine Mayer
Josephine Mayer
CEO and Co-Founder
CircularFabrics UG

In fashion, they’ve shown the potential to match the flexibility and softness of premium nylon yarns. In industrial contexts—such as automotive or maritime applications—we’re exploring how the materials can meet more stringent performance needs. We’re currently preparing for more extensive validation testing in collaboration with potential partners.

You’re based in Munich, which is described as a hub for green innovation. In practical terms, how have the local ecosystem—whether it’s policy, partnerships, or workforce—contributed to CircularFabrics’ development? Do you think this geography offers clear-cut advantages over other European startup hubs?
Josephine Mayer: Munich has been a strong launchpad for CircularFabrics—especially as a deep-tech startup at the intersection of science and sustainability. The city offers a vibrant startup ecosystem with excellent support structures for early-stage ventures, from funding access to expert mentoring and education.

The TUM Venture Labs have played a key role in supporting greentech and deep-tech founders like us, and we’re also benefitting from the region’s strong talent pool in chemistry, engineering, and materials science as we plan to expand our team.

Being in Germany also places us close to EU policy developments on circularity and sustainability, which directly align with our mission. Compared to other hubs, Munich combines industrial heritage with scientific excellence — making it an ideal base to scale a technology like Nyloop.

With increasing EU regulatory pressure on brands to adopt circular solutions, how are you aligning CircularFabrics’ offering with upcoming compliance frameworks, and do you see your technology as a way for brands to meet Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) targets more effectively?
Josephine Mayer: We see Nyloop as a valuable enabler for brands aiming to meet upcoming circularity regulations, including EPR schemes and the EU’s Ecodesign Directive. By recovering high-quality nylon from actual post-consumer waste—including complex blends—we’re working toward providing a traceable, recycled input that helps brands meet their recycled content goals.

Our team is also exploring ways to ensure transparent verification, which could support Digital Product Passport (DPP) requirements in the future. While much of this ecosystem is still developing, we aim to be a reliable technical partner for brands navigating this evolving landscape.

Looking ahead, you plan to deploy modular recycling units. Can you elaborate on the rationale behind this decentralised approach, and how it might change the economic or logistical models of synthetic fibre recycling for partners across different regions or sectors?
Josephine Mayer: We're developing a concept for modular, automated recycling units that could eventually be deployed closer to the source of nylon waste. The idea is to reduce transport emissions and increase operational efficiency by placing systems at major sorting centres, garment factories, or coastal waste sites.

Right now, this is a mid-to-long-term goal. We're currently focusing on scaling our core process in a centralised pilot setting to prove its economic and technical viability. Modularisation is part of our roadmap, and we're engaging with partners to understand how and where such units could be most impactful.

What Makes Nyloop Different
  • Targets nylon recovery from complex blends including elastane and polyester.
  • Preserves polymer integrity without depolymerisation or repolymerisation.
  • Operates with lower energy input and reusable, low-impact chemicals.
  • Produces virgin-like nylon suitable for both textile and industrial uses.
  • Designed for cost-efficiency and scalability from the outset.
Roadmap at a Glance
  • Currently at TRL 5 with pilot-scale validation under way.
  • Developing closed-loop, decentralised modular recycling units.
  • Partnering with collectors and logistics providers for feedstock access.
  • Aligning with EU regulations on EPR and digital product passports.
  • Exploring applications in fashion, automotive, and maritime sectors.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 30 June 2025
  • Last modified: 30 June 2025