The latest IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) report is a doomsday warning: without immediate and deep emissions reductions across all sectors, limiting global warming to 1.5°C is beyond reach. But the textiles-apparel industry has a role to play in averting it: the IPCC’s Sixth Assessment Report (AR6) has repeatedly emphasised on the need to shift to bio-textiles.
The report: The Summary for Policymakers of the IPCC Working Group III report, Climate Change 2022: Mitigation of climate change was approved on 4 April 2022, by 195 member governments of the IPCC, through a virtual approval session that started on 21 March. It is the third instalment of the IPCC’s Sixth Assessment Report (AR6), which will be completed this year.
- The mitigation potential of bio-textiles: Between 2020 and 2050, mitigation measures in forests and other natural ecosystems provide the largest share of the AFOLU (agriculture, forestry and other land use) mitigation potential (up to USD100 tCO2-eq-1), followed by agriculture and demand-side measures (high confidence). Demand-side measures including shifting to sustainable healthy diets, reducing food waste, building with wood, biochemicals, and bio-textiles, have a mitigation potential of 2.2 (1.1–3.6) GtCO2-eq yr-1. Most mitigation options are available and ready to deploy.
- Cellulosic fibres remain a core product: A larger and more challenging issue is how the forestry industry can contribute to the decarbonisation of other sectors and how biogenic carbon will be used in a fossil-free society, for example, through developing the forest based bioeconomy. In recent years the concept of biorefineries has gained increasing traction. Most examples involve innovations for taking by-products or diverting small streams to produce fuels, chemicals and bio-composites that can replace fossil-based products, but there is little common vision on what really constitutes a biorefinery. Some of these options have limited scalability and the cellulose fibre remains the core product even in the relatively large shift from paper production to textiles fibre production.
- EU eco-design plans on textiles lauded: Governments are also turning their attention to developing standards to increase the durability of products and materials by requiring options for maintenance, reparability, reusability, upgradability, recyclability and waste handling. For example, the EU Eco-design directive includes new requirements for manufacturers to make available for a minimum of 7-10 years spare parts to repair household equipment. The European Commission plans to widen the resource efficiency requirements beyond energy-related products to cover products such as textiles, furniture as well as high impact intermediary products such as steel, cement and chemicals in a new sustainable product policy legislative initiative.
- Call to replace cotton with cellulose-based textiles: Many existing bio-based products have significant mitigation potential. Increased use of wood in buildings can reduce GHG emissions from cement and steel production while providing carbon storage. Substitution of fossil fuels with biomass in manufacture of cement and steel can reduce GHG emissions where these materials are difficult to replace. Dispatchable power based on biomass can provide power stability and quality as the contribution from solar and wind power increases, and biofuels can contribute to reducing fossil fuel emissions in the transport and industry sectors. The use of bio-based plastics, chemicals and packaging could be increased, and biorefineries can achieve high resource-use efficiency in converting biomass into food, feed, fuels and other bio-based products. There is also scope for substituting existing bio-based products with more benign products. For example, cellulose-based textiles can replace cotton, which requires large amounts of water, chemical fertilisers and pesticides to ensure high yields
- Ethiopian textile-garment park comes for high praise: Eco-industrial parks have been promoted in Ethiopia by the government and UNIDO, based on the expectation that they could help to boost the economy. One of the success stories is an industrial park in Hawassa, a nation-level textile and garment industrial park with a "zero emissions commitment" based on renewable energy and energy-efficient technologies. However, the concept of the industrial park, including feasible policies and institutional arrangements, is new to Ethiopia’s regulatory processes, and this has created problems for management, knowledge and governance, hindering their fast implementation.