There is an urgent imperative for India to develop national policies to gradually phase out nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) extensively used in the textiles industry as a cleaning agent, with significant nonylphenol (NP) contamination in various rivers across major textile hubs.
- High NP levels in consumer textile products, especially innerwear and children’s clothing, raise concerns about prolonged human exposure.
- NP’s persistence, bioaccumulation, and toxicity pose significant risks to the environment, marine ecosystems, and the food chain. Additionally, consumers, particularly children, may be exposed through skin contact and ingestion.
THE REPORT: The findings published in a report—Toxic Threads: Assessing Nonylphenol Contamination in Indian Textiles & the Environment—indicate that industrial discharge is a primary source of NP pollution in major rivers, posing risks to aquatic ecosystems and human health. While several countries have taken proactive measures, India is still far behind in addressing the issue of NP and NPE.
Brought out by Toxics Link, an environmental research and advocacy organisation in collaboration with Environmental Defense Fund, warns that with other countries implementing regulations and restrictions, Indian textile products containing toxic chemicals may face barriers or trade limitations in the global market. This could hinder the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry and affect its reputation in terms of sustainability and responsible manufacturing practices.
- It is essential for India to recognise the concerns associated with these chemicals and prioritise their regulations and restrictions in various sectors, especially textiles.
- By aligning with international efforts and adopting strict measures, India can safeguard its population, promote sustainable manufacturing practices, and ensure compliance with global standards for chemical management.
- The Toxic Link report highlights the concerns with regard to nonylphenol and its ethoxylates usage in India. NP’s persistence, bioaccumulation, and toxicity pose significant risks to the environment, marine ecosystems, and the food chain. Additionally, consumers, particularly children, may be exposed through skin contact and ingestion.
NPES are most extensively used in the textiles industry as a cleaning agent. Additionally, NPEs also help protect polymers and rubbers due to their anti-oxidant properties.
- The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) and the Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB) have identified nonylphenol (NP) as a toxic chemical and a substance of concern due to its hazardous nature. There is an established science that NP is an endocrine disruptor with potential carcinogenic effects, posing significant environmental and human health risks.
- The absence of regulatory limits on NP in environmental matrices and the lack of national bans on its use in textiles highlight a critical policy gap that urgently needs to be addressed. Furthermore, the absence of stringent measures in India creates a potential discrepancy in trade practices.
- With other countries implementing regulations and restrictions, Indian textile products containing toxic chemicals may face barriers or trade limitations in the global market. This could hinder the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry and affect its reputation in terms of sustainability and responsible manufacturing practices.
METHODOLOGY: A total of 40 branded and local textile products were collected from retail shops and online platforms across 10 major textile hubs in India.
- Surface water, sediment, and effluent samples were collected from upstream and downstream locations of rivers flowing through major textile hubs.
- The samples were analysed in a NABL-accredited laboratory to determine NP concentrations in textiles and NP levels in environmental matrices.
MAJOR FINDINGS
- Out of 40 textile products examined, NP was detected in 15 out of 40 textile products (about 35%).
- NP concentration ranged from 8.7 to 957 mg/kg in these 15 products.
- NP in 13 out of 15 products were above the present EU limit (<100 mg/kg). The remaining 2 products having NP below the EU limit were kid jeans and underwear.
- 8 out of 15 products were manufactured from cotton whereas 5 products were made from hosiery and the fabric of the other two items was not mentioned on the product.
- 13 out of 15 products were manufactured in India, while the place of manufacturing of the remaining two items (kids jeans and men’s vest) was not known.
- Female innerwear made with hosiery had the highest NP concentration (957 mg/kg).
- 10 out of 15 samples were innerwear products (men & women) wherein NP concentration was found in the range of 22.2 to 957 mg/kg.
- 60% (9 out of 15) of baby and children’s products had NP (8.7-764 mg/kg).
- The study revealed significant Nonylphenol (NP) contamination in various rivers across major textile hubs in India.
- NP was detected in surface water from the Cooum River (Chennai), Adyar River (Chennai), Buddha Nullah (Ludhiana, Punjab), Bandi River (Rajasthan), and Sabarmati River (Ahmedabad).
- The highest NP concentration in surface water was detected in the Cooum River at 70 µg/L, followed by the Adyar River at 60 µg/L and the Bandi River at 40 µg/L.
- In the Sabarmati River, NP levels were recorded at 7.9 µg/L in surface water, while sediment samples showed 360 µg/L of NP and 810 µg/L of NP mixed isomers.
- Buddha Nullah exhibited the highest contamination in sediments, with NP reaching 460 µg/L and NP mixed isomers at 1190 µg/L.
- Effluent samples from textile industries also showed NP contamination at 10.1 µg/L. The presence of NP in downstream locations and its absence in upstream points strongly suggests point-source pollution from industrial activities, particularly textile manufacturing.
- The significantly higher NP concentration at the downstream point of the Sabarmati River is likely due to effluent discharge from nearby textile units.
