Zippers are not anymore what they used to be even 20–30 years back. Today, they are a fashion element. How is the fashion element changing for zippers? What are the driving forces: end-users or brands?
A zipper became an integral fashion element that can be the garment's main feature. It can also 'make' or 'break' the outfit. The zippers can play a decorative role, but their primary, functional role will be the most important one. The fashion element is changing for the zipper. For example, our Vislon with Magnetic Closure zipper is a product that has magnets embedded in the left and right openings. The magnetic force of the magnets allows the zipper to be closed simply by bringing the openings closer together. Because it is easy to operate without looking at the product, it is expected to be used in a wide range of fields, including for quick clothing changes in sportswear, children's wear and universal fashion, but it also remains a decorative element of the clothing. The driving forces for zippers are changing: although the final decision is still on the brand's side, we will observe more influence from end-users soon. Consumers are well-informed these days and environmentally cautious. Therefore, at the end of the day, they are the ones who will be making the final decision when it comes to purchasing. We have to keep this in mind.
Zippers are almost unnoticeable, but they need to be fashionable too. How does YKK's R&D team ensure this?
As you say, zippers are not the protagonists. So, we are studying simple appearance and functional beauty. Aesthetics will always be the first target for fashion; the challenge for our small accessory is to guarantee style and beauty with a high level of functionality and performance, and that is exactly what YKK’s R&D teams are constantly working on.
Today, there are many restrictions on materials used for zippers. Have the restrictions affected functionality? Or. have zippers moved ahead of the times? Also. do you see more restrictions / standards on the usage of materials?
Sustainability is one of YKK’s most important management policies. When we develop new zipper items using new eco-friendly materials, often the zipper quality/functionality (strength etc) decrease during the initial stage of the development. However, we always try to overcome these technical challenges and aim to achieve better quality/functionality than the previous item. An example is AquaGuard (water repellent zippers).
Previously, YKK had been using C6 agents which contain fluorocarbons. Fluorocarbons help repel water and oil from fabrics. However, they are now known to be dangerous substances to the environment. After many years of development, we now have a new version AquaGuard using C0 agents (do not contain fluorocarbons) but maintaining the water-repellent function, and we have improved the overall zipper functionality as well (more smooth operability). As environmental concerns grow globally, we expect more material restrictions in the future. But as YKK has always been doing, we will try to be one step or more ahead of the restrictions that we anticipate will be brought to the market
One of the many factors that will decide apparel’s future is material science. Do you think this will also be true for clothing accessories like zippers?
Yes, apparel is considered to be the second most polluting industry after oil; so material science, especially sustainable materials (recyclable, biodegradable, etc.) are an important factor for zippers.
The fashion world is also slowly moving towards recycling. Therein zippers are an issue. What can zipper manufacturers do so that recycling becomes seamless? Are you collaborating or exchanging ideas with both garment producers and recyclers over this?
Trims in general are a challenge within most garment recycling systems. YKK has been working with garment recyclers globally to understand what their systems can and cannot handle. We have been conducting trials with a number of brand partners and recyclers to test new products designed for garment recycling systems.
YKK this year launched a new collection of recycled zippers. Can those be recycled in turn? Have you done any LCA analysis of these?
YKK has been producing zippers made from recycled materials for over 27 years. Some of these products can be recycled in existing recycling systems. We are currently conducting LCA analysis of not only our products made from recycled materials, but also the products that are not so that we can fully understand the impacts of all our products. This will help guide our development of even more sustainable products.
