India Bows to Trump Tariffs, Sacrifices Farmers by Scrapping Cotton Import Duty for US Suppliers

India has temporarily suspended its 11% cotton import duty, signalling readiness to address United States trade concerns while easing pressure on its garment sector. The exemption, effective until 30 September, is designed to stabilise cotton supplies, support exporters, and cool domestic textile costs ahead of the country’s crucial festival-driven demand season.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • India has removed its 11% cotton import duty until 30 September, signalling flexibility in trade talks and providing respite to garment exporters.
  • The temporary suspension primarily benefits United States cotton suppliers and supports India’s apparel industry, which faces intensifying tariff challenges and rising costs across its supply chain.
  • Industry bodies had repeatedly urged authorities to scrap import duties; the relief aims to stabilise raw material supplies before the peak festival garment season.
India’s suspension of cotton import duties until 30 September was announced against the backdrop of strained trade talks with the US.
Advantage US India’s suspension of cotton import duties until 30 September was announced against the backdrop of strained trade talks with the US. AI-Generated / Gemini

India has waived its cotton import duty until 30 September, a temporary step aimed at easing supply pressures and showing flexibility in trade negotiations. The suspension covers raw cotton under heading 5201 and is expected to benefit American exporters while providing temporary relief for India’s garment industry during its festival demand season ahead.

  • The government announcement removes both customs duty and agriculture cess, effectively suspending around 11% levies on imported raw cotton until the end of September.
  • Industry observers interpret the waiver as an attempt to reduce bilateral tensions with the US, which recently escalated tariffs on Indian goods in response to oil purchases from Russia.
  • Industry associations welcomed the duty suspension, noting it could help align domestic cotton costs with international benchmarks and stabilise textile prices.
  • Cotton availability in India has tightened significantly, and the temporary relief is aimed at curbing yarn price increases and easing downstream cost pressures in the garment sector.

THE TRIGGER: India’s suspension of cotton import duties until 30 September was announced against the backdrop of strained trade talks with the US. Announced through a finance ministry notification, the exemption eliminates the 11% levy on raw cotton imports. This step is viewed as an immediate attempt to ease garment sector pressures while signalling flexibility in bilateral negotiations.

  • The waiver applies to cotton imports classified under heading 5201 and covers shipments already in transit, providing relief to importers during clearance.
  • US suppliers are expected to be the largest beneficiaries, given China’s additional tariffs on American cotton that redirected volumes towards India.
  • A scheduled US trade delegation visit to New Delhi in late August was cancelled, leaving uncertainty over the next stage of talks.
  • The exemption period has been deliberately kept short, giving the Indian government leverage while managing domestic industry sensitivities around agriculture and trade exposure.

THE BACKDROP: The Committee on Cotton Production and Consumption, chaired by the Textile Commissioner, had a few months ago recommended removing the 11% import duty. Stakeholders at its Mumbai meeting argued that removing or freezing the levy would help stabilise supplies and send a positive signal to Washington. The panel projected tighter domestic output and rising imports, reinforcing calls for urgent relief measures.

  • The Tamil Nadu Spinning Mills Association noted that a waiver or freeze on duties could reassure United States trade partners about India’s textile export commitments.
  • The Cotton Association of India forecast production this season at 291.30 lakh bales, down from earlier estimates of nearly 300 lakh bales.
  • Imports are expected to more than double to 33 lakh bales, up from 15.20 lakh bales in the previous year, according to CAI.
  • Total cotton supply, including 25 lakh bales imported by March 31, is pegged at 306.83 lakh bales, against estimated consumption of 315 lakh bales.

WHAT’S AT STAKE: India’s labour-intensive garment and textile sectors face mounting challenges from escalating US tariffs, which risk undermining competitiveness in their largest export market. The temporary cotton duty suspension offers only short-term relief. Exporters continue to grapple with cancelled orders, rising costs, and fears of production relocation abroad, jeopardising ambitions of doubling textile and apparel exports by 2030.

  • US tariffs on Indian goods are set to double to 50% later in August, after previously ranging from 0–5%, with some textiles between 9 and 13%.
  • Indian exporters warn of lost orders and cancelled contracts, while exploring overseas manufacturing options to remain viable in the US market.
  • Tariff escalation coincides with labour shortages and limited capacity, straining the sector’s ability to meet surging festival season garment demand.
  • Relocation of production abroad could undermine the government’s ‘Make in India’ manufacturing programme and erode employment across cotton-linked value chains.

WHAT THE DATA SHOWS: India’s cotton imports and production trends illustrate why the duty suspension matters for meeting supply requirements. Imports surged to 2.71 million bales in FY25, up from 1.52 million bales in FY24. The US, Australia, Brazil, and Egypt emerged as key suppliers, providing shipments worth more than $800 million combined in FY25.

  • US supplied about $234 million of cotton in FY25, while Australia, Brazil, and Egypt contributed $258 million, $181 million, and $116 million respectively.
  • Overall cotton imports rose to $1.2 billion in FY25, doubling from $579 million in FY24, reflecting increased dependence on foreign fibre supplies.
  • India’s cotton output fell from 33.7 million bales in FY23 to 32.5 million bales in FY24, and is estimated at 30.7 million bales in FY25, according to agriculture ministry figures.
  • According to the US Department of Agriculture, China led global production in 2024/2025 with 32 million bales (26% of world output), while India ranked second with 25 million bales (21%).
India’s cotton imports and production trends illustrate why the duty suspension matters for meeting supply requirements
Cotton Ground India’s cotton imports and production trends illustrate why the duty suspension matters for meeting supply requirements EqualStock / Pexels

WHERE THINGS STAND: Trade relations between India and the US remain strained despite New Delhi’s duty suspension gesture. Talks have been left without a confirmed timeline, clouding prospects for a near-term agreement on tariffs and trade relief. Meanwhile, India’s apparel exporters are squeezed by both rising tariffs abroad and higher raw material costs at home, even as industry bodies cautiously welcome the government’s move on cotton imports.

  • US negotiators withdrew from the scheduled August round of talks, clouding prospects for a near-term agreement on tariffs and trade relief.
  • Industry executives emphasise that cotton had been a sticking point in negotiations, and its temporary duty waiver may inject goodwill into future dialogue.
  • The exemption’s short timeframe underscores New Delhi’s strategy of retaining leverage while signalling selective openness in trade discussions with Washington.

STOCKS UP: The suspension of cotton import duties sparked a rally in India’s textile stocks on 19 August. Investors responded positively to expectations of lower raw material costs, with leading companies across the cotton value chain gaining between 2 and 8%. The move was seen as immediate relief for the sector facing US tariff pressures.

  • Vardhman Textiles closed 6.14% higher at ₹434.45 after touching an intraday high of ₹447.50.
  • Ambika Cotton Mills gained 5.89% to ₹1,512.65, while Welspun Living rose 4.10% to ₹121.95.
  • Gokaldas Exports advanced 2.29% to ₹742.40, and Arvind increased 3.88% to ₹305, while KPR Mill closed flat at ₹1,000.
  • Raymond Lifestyle surged 8.22%, Vardhman Textiles added 7.50%, and Indo Count Industries gained 2.21%, underscoring strong investor sentiment.

WORTH NOTING: The exemption applies not only to future consignments but also to cotton already in transit, offering flexibility for importers managing clearance procedures. According to customs rules, Bills of Entry filed in advance can be withdrawn and resubmitted to claim the temporary duty relief. This ensures smoother access to imported fibre during a period of acute domestic supply shortages and rising costs.

  • Industry insiders clarified that the taxable event is determined at the time of filing, allowing shipments arriving before September to benefit from exemptions.
  • Importers can adjust pre-filed documentation by withdrawing and resubmitting paperwork to ensure eligibility under the new duty suspension rules.
  • The short exemption period makes it crucial for importers to act promptly, especially as festival-driven demand intensifies across India’s textile value chain.

Ripple Effects: The suspension has drawn attention to vulnerabilities across India’s textile ecosystem. Exporters warn that prolonged tariff disputes may force production relocation abroad, undermining employment in labour-intensive sectors. Industry officials expect the temporary waiver and possible extension to affect supply chains, export competitiveness, and India’s manufacturing plans.

  • Garment exporters are considering overseas manufacturing options, reflecting a shift that could weaken India’s position in global apparel supply networks.
  • Relocation risks erode the effectiveness of the government’s ‘Make in India’ initiative, threatening millions employed in cotton-linked textile production.
  • Trade bodies stress that extending duty-free imports would provide stability, while a lapse could trigger raw material shortages and further price escalation.
  • The stand-off has already jolted labour-intensive industries beyond textiles, including footwear, engineering goods, and seafood, all seeking alternative export markets.
Market Reactions
  • Investors responded swiftly to the duty suspension, sending textile stocks higher and reflecting optimism about reduced raw material expenses.
  • Analysts said the policy would immediately improve the cost base for yarn producers and garment exporters, boosting competitiveness in global markets.
  • Broader equity sentiment improved across the textile sector, despite persistent concerns about tariffs and long-term demand in overseas markets.
  • Industry watchers noted that even smaller and mid-cap firms benefitted from the announcement, signalling wide-ranging relief within the value chain.
  • Market participants warned that any reimposition of import duties after September could reverse investor sentiment and dampen share valuations.
Industry Concerns
  • Trade bodies stressed that the short-term duty relief is insufficient to offset steep US tariffs impacting export competitiveness.
  • Executives argued that producers remain vulnerable to global volatility, including fluctuating cotton prices, climate disruptions, and labour shortages.
  • Exporters cautioned that cancelled orders and margin pressures may intensify if negotiations with Washington fail to achieve meaningful concessions.
  • Textile manufacturers highlighted that dependency on imports could weaken India’s self-sufficiency goals and threaten long-term strategic resilience.
  • Stakeholders emphasised that an extension of duty suspension is critical to sustaining growth targets and safeguarding millions of sectoral jobs.
 
 
  • Dated posted: 20 August 2025
  • Last modified: 20 August 2025