Researchers at North Carolina State University have introduced a cottonseed oil-based finishing method that could replace toxic chemicals in cotton fabric treatments. This process modifies cottonseed oil to form durable chemical bonds with cotton fibres, producing wrinkle-resistant and water-repellent fabrics. The modified cottonseed oil finish could replace formaldehyde and PFAS while utilising existing cotton processing by-products.
- Cotton finishing traditionally depends on resins and fluorine coatings that create environmental hazards and potential health risks for both manufacturers and wearers.
- Epoxidised cottonseed oil forms strong bridges between cellulose fibres, creating durable wrinkle resistance and measurable water repellence in treated cotton.
- Infrared spectroscopy confirmed successful bonding of oil molecules to cotton, while hydrophobic performance was measured through droplet contact angle testing.
- The findings were presented by Taylor Kanipe and Richard Venditti at the American Chemical Society Fall 2025 meeting, held 17–21 August.
THE STUDY: The NC State team developed their method by chemically modifying cottonseed oil to create epoxide groups that bond with cotton fibres. These epoxidised molecules interlink with the cellulose structure, forming a polymer that improves wrinkle resistance and water repellence. Laboratory analysis confirmed strong molecular bonding and demonstrated a contact angle of 125 degrees, proving significantly greater hydrophobicity than untreated cotton, which absorbed water immediately without surface resistance.
- Researchers built on earlier NC State studies into vegetable oil epoxidation and expanded them for cotton finishing applications.
- Epoxidised cottonseed oil bonded tightly with both fibres and itself, enhancing durability of finished fabrics beyond untreated controls.
- Infrared spectroscopy confirmed successful bonding of the oil molecules onto the cotton surface after treatment and curing.
- Contact angle testing with a high-speed camera revealed significant improvement in water repellence compared to untreated fabric samples.
WHAT’S AT STAKE: Textile manufacturers need safer finishing methods that maintain fabric performance without hazardous chemicals like formaldehyde and PFAS. Formaldehyde remains a recognised carcinogen, while PFAS substances are enduring contaminants linked with multiple health risks. Safer approaches could help textile manufacturers meet regulatory requirements and consumer expectations while continuing to deliver essential finishing properties in clothing and other applications that depend on functional performance.
- Textile finishing directly impacts both manufacturing workers and consumers through chemical exposure during production and product use.
- Phase-out of PFAS across industries is accelerating regulatory and consumer pressure on apparel companies to adopt safer alternatives.
- Reducing hazardous inputs in finishing directly addresses industry safety concerns while retaining necessary functional performance in fabrics.
- A safer finishing option aligns with growing sustainability targets across fashion supply chains, strengthening environmental credibility for adopters.
THE BIGGER PICTURE: The approach highlights opportunities to expand cottonseed oil use within textile production, linking fibre finishing with seed oil applications. Cottonseed oil is inexpensive and locally available in producing regions, offering potential supply chain resilience. The epoxidation process provides compatibility with existing finishing operations, making transition practical. Using cottonseed oil, a by-product of cotton farming, creates a more circular production system while meeting textile manufacturers' sustainability goals.
- Cotton finishing processes affect millions of bales annually, amplifying the potential sustainability impact of chemical substitution.
- Integrating seed oil into finishing extends cotton’s utilisation beyond fibre and animal feed, promoting circular use of raw materials.
- Economically, reusing cotton by-products could create additional revenue streams for producers.
- This development matches recent regulatory trends phasing out PFAS and supports growing use of bio-based materials in textile finishing.
WORTH NOTING: Future studies aim to refine the treatment by evaluating tear strength, durability, and wrinkle resistance in finished fabrics. Researchers also intend to develop a water-based emulsion system, eliminating hazardous solvents in application. If successful, the process would establish an entirely bio-based, environmentally safe finishing technique that maintains performance. This next stage will be critical for scaling from laboratory experiments to commercial adoption across global cotton supply chains.
- Goals include testing physical durability indicators such as tear resistance under performance conditions.
- Wrinkle resistance evaluation will determine effectiveness compared with existing commercial resins.
- Water-based emulsions could eliminate solvent use, further greening the process.
- Commercial viability depends on balancing ease of use, cost, and compatibility with existing finishing infrastructure.
WHAT THEY SAID:
Epoxidised vegetable oils have a range of applications. While native cottonseed oil lacks the reactivity of formaldehyde-based resins, this simple epoxidation process produces a safer, more user-friendly alternative for applications like durable press finishes.
— Taylor Kanipe
Graduate Student
North Carolina State University
If we can achieve our goal of changing the properties of the cotton fabric—making it anti-wrinkle, anti-staining and water-resistant—using a water-based process, we'll have a green process for putting a bio-based material onto cotton as a replacement for formaldehyde- and PFAS-based finishes.
— Richard Venditti
Professor of Forest Biomaterials, Paper Science and Engineering
North Carolina State University
