Second-Hand Fashion Operations Face Rising Transport Costs and Infrastructure Gaps in Austrian Market

A new Austrian study examines textile reverse logistics and identifies operational weaknesses across collection, transport, sorting, interim storage and resale. Researchers warn these inefficiencies demand accelerated investment, coordination, and process improvements from commercial firms and socio-economic enterprises to handle rising volumes sustainably.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Austrian textile collection networks face operational barriers including seasonal storage restrictions and limited efficiency across different collection systems.
  • Expert interviews reveal that high labour requirements and low levels of technological integration restrict efficiency improvements in Austrian second-hand processing and resale operations.
  • The study warns existing infrastructure cannot support national-scale textile circularity without major investment in logistics, storage, and quality control systems.
The Austrian study provides multiple data points illustrating systemic inefficiencies in textile reverse logistics and their wider environmental implications.
Austrian Challenge The Austrian study provides multiple data points illustrating systemic inefficiencies in textile reverse logistics and their wider environmental implications. AI Generated / Gemini

Austria’s textiles sector is facing operational challenges as organisations manage logistical pressures during the shift from linear to circular models. Limited automation, reliance on road transport, and declining collection quality are compounding difficulties across Austrian textile reverse logistics systems. A new study has identified multiple weaknesses in Austria’s textile reverse logistics system, including high transport costs, manual sorting dependence, storage limitations, and contamination issues. Researchers map these challenges across collection, sorting, transport, interim storage, and resale.

  • Transport operations represent a major expense, with staffing shortages further limiting vehicle availability for collection tasks.
  • Processing operations remain predominantly manual, with multiple handling stages required to achieve acceptable quality standards, increasing labour intensity and limiting efficiency improvements.
  • Seasonal storage restrictions create bottlenecks during transitional fashion cycles, forcing operators to absorb warehousing costs and reduce efficiency when managing collected inventories effectively.
  • The paper ‘Advancing Circular Economy in the Textile Industry: A Comprehensive Study of Reverse Logistics and Operational Practices in Austria’, by Manuela Brandner and others from the University of Applied Sciences Upper Austria has been published in Procedia Computer Science.

THE STUDY: The researchers conducted a detailed examination of reverse logistics in Austria’s textile industry. Using qualitative expert interviews, they explored operational challenges in collection, transport, sorting, interim storage, and resale. The study examined process steps and has contributed to a differentiated understanding of operational dynamics affecting collection, sorting, transport, interim storage, and resale.

  • Nine expert interviews were conducted with representatives of companies that deal with seconds, charitable organisations, recycling firms, socio-economic enterprises, and consultants familiar with Austrian market operations.
  • Participants were selected for their expertise across different process stages, ensuring insights covered both profit-driven commercial firms and social-mission enterprises handling textile flows.
  • Interviews were semi-structured, averaging around one hour, and conducted in German or English between April and May 2025.
  • The authors of the study are Brandner, Sarah Pfoser, Elisabeth Voraberger, Patrick Brandtner and Oliver Schauer.

WHAT’S AT STAKE: Expert interviews revealed concerns across commercial and socio-economic operators about profitability, staffing, and textile quality. Many collected items failed to meet resale standards, limiting higher-value second-hand opportunities and increasing the share of textiles diverted into energy recovery processes.

  • Transport dependency on road networks makes operations vulnerable to fuel cost changes, while companies report personnel shortages that restrict vehicle fleet utilisation.
  • Many collected items failed to meet resale standards, limiting higher-value second-hand opportunities and increasing the share of textiles diverted into energy recovery processes.
  • Commercially operated second-hand stores face competition from low-priced new fashion items, a factor that negatively affects their profitability.
  • Socio-economic enterprises reported challenges balancing their social objectives with the need to maintain financially sustainable operations under competitive market conditions.

WHAT THE DATA SHOWS: The Austrian study provides multiple data points illustrating systemic inefficiencies in textile reverse logistics and their wider environmental implications. These numbers highlight both local operational pressures and global consumption risks confronting the sector. From transport cost allocation to projected second-hand market growth, the findings underscore the scale of restructuring needed for Austria to meet Europe’s 2025 collection targets.

  • One Austrian operator estimated transport costs consume around 25% of total expenses, representing a major financial burden across collection operations.
  • Energy requirements for second-hand clothing processing are 10–20 times lower than producing new garments, underlining its relative environmental efficiency.
  • Worldwide losses from clothing discarded despite being wearable are estimated at US$ 460 billion. Without structural change, the textiles sector could consume over 26% of the global carbon budget aligned with the two-degree pathway by 2050.

WHERE THINGS STAND: Austria’s textile reverse logistics remains fragmented, with distinct approaches pursued by commercial collectors, charitable organisations, and international retail chains. Major operators are focusing on export and recycling, while socio-economic enterprises prioritise accessibility.

  • Retailers have added collection schemes that intersect with traditional networks. These parallel systems illustrate a divided operational landscape that complicates coordination and investment as Austria prepares for mandatory collection under forthcoming EU regulations.
  • Stock management practices often rely on handwritten labelling and manual inputs.

CASE IN POINT: Socio-economic second-hand shops and online resale platforms demonstrate the complexity of Austria’s circular textile transition. Both models highlight how operational realities intersect with social missions and digital commerce, revealing resource-intensive practices. From balancing affordability with sustainability to the painstaking work of digitising inventory, these examples underline the persistent barriers to efficiency within Austria’s fragmented reverse logistics systems.

  • Online resale requires photographing, digitising and describing each item individually, alongside managing a separate online inventory, which demands significant time and coordination compared with conventional retail workflows.
  • Many second-hand operations lack inventory systems; labels are handwritten and point-of-sale entries such as price and category are manually keyed by sales staff during transactions.
  • Socio-economic shops aim to keep prices affordable for low-income customers while recovering costs, adjusting pricing based on sales performance to clear space for incoming stock.
  • To maintain stock balance and avoid waste, goods are rotated between shops, creating additional logistical workloads that sit alongside regular preparation, transport and presentation tasks.
  • Limited retail training in socio-economic shops can reduce customer service quality, compounding the operational complexity of pricing decisions, rotating inventory and preparing goods for sale.

WORTH NOTING: Several operational details surfaced in the Austrian interviews that, while not central to the primary findings, illustrate additional operational challenges within reverse logistics. These issues range from security risks and collection incentives to practical limits in transport and storage. Together they highlight additional factors complicating the management of textile flows across commercial, non-profit, and socio-economic organisations preparing for Europe’s 2025 collection requirement.

  • Public collection containers are affected by property damage and vandalism, requiring operators to implement preventive measures.
  • Bring-it-yourself collection schemes often require incentive measures to encourage customer participation, adding costs and administrative effort for organisations operating these programmes.
  • Pressing requirements for efficient railway transport pose potential safety risks for temporary staff, while longer transit times increase the chance of undetected textile contamination.
  • Limited storage space during seasonal transitions creates bottlenecks, forcing organisations to tie up capital in inventory and absorb additional warehousing costs.
  • Multi-stage sorting processes involving both coarse and fine checks increase labour requirements but improve quality control outcomes for resale and recycling.

THE BIG PICTURE: The European Union’s Waste Framework Directive requires member states to establish separate textile collection systems starting in 2025. Austria’s study of reverse logistics processes offers insight into the operational steps currently in place. The findings document gaps in collection, sorting, storage, and resale, providing context on how existing systems compare with the structural requirements implied by the forthcoming European collection mandate.

  • The European Union’s Waste Framework Directive requires member states to establish separate textile collection systems from 2025.
  • Austria’s current infrastructure will need to expand significantly to accommodate projected increases in collected volumes under this mandate.
Key Organisations in Austria
  • Öpula is one of Austria’s major commercial textile collectors, primarily focusing on exports and recycling rather than domestic reuse opportunities.
  • Texaid, another leading operator, manages large-scale collection networks with emphasis on recycling, contributing significant volumes into international textile flows.
  • Caritas, a non-profit organisation, continues to operate textile collection networks across Austria but struggles with declining quality of incoming donations.
  • Volkshilfe manages socio-economic textile collection and resale operations, balancing affordable access for low-income groups with organisational sustainability needs.
  • H&M and Zara run take-back programmes in Austria, creating additional consumer-facing channels for collection that intersect with existing non-profit and commercial networks.
Collection Challenges
  • Transport costs account for about 25% of expenses in major Austrian textile collection organisations, representing a critical operational burden.
  • Manual sorting remains the dominant approach across Austrian facilities, requiring significant labour and limiting opportunities for efficiency through automation.
  • Storage limitations during seasonal transitions create inventory bottlenecks, adding warehousing costs and reducing operational flexibility for collection organisations.
  • Contamination from non-textile waste in collection containers lowers quality, forcing more textiles into recycling or energy recovery instead of reuse.
  • Personnel shortages limit fleet availability, with some operators unable to fully staff vehicles, directly impacting collection and transport capacity.
 
 
  • Dated posted: 19 August 2025
  • Last modified: 19 August 2025