Secondhand

Clients who built relationships with personal stylists have started asking a question consumer resale apps cannot answer: what happens to clothing once it leaves the wardrobe. Stéphanie Crespin, Founder and Chief Executive of Reflaunt, has answered with Folio, a private resale system that lets stylists manage client wardrobes, earn commission and protect discretion others did not offer.

Regulatory pressure on the global secondhand clothing trade is building in Brussels, Washington, and Geneva, shaped by the widespread belief that exports to Africa amount to little more than waste disposal. Field evidence from East African markets tells a different story, one in which market incentives, trust-based quality systems, and consumer affordability constraints combine to keep textile waste to a fraction of imported bales.

The secondhand clothing market is growing fast, and the gap between that growth and genuine circularity is growing faster. A major new study by Circle Economy and Fashion for Good, covering sorting facilities across four EU countries and receiving markets in Ghana and Pakistan, shows that most discarded garments are physically rewearable. What keeps them out of circulation is not damage; it is economics.

In El Salvador, the secondhand clothing market has grown into a primary source of affordable apparel for millions of households navigating inflation, informal employment, and limited purchasing power. A just-released joint study by Garson & Shaw and Full Cycle Resource Consulting maps how US-collected surplus clothing moves through a commercially disciplined supply chain to reach Salvadoran consumers at prices calibrated to local demand.

Debate over used clothing exports often portrays receiving countries as passive endpoints for unwanted waste. The Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (SMART) argues research across African and Latin American markets shows garments arrive largely fit for resale or reuse. Consumers buy them for price, quality and practical value.

Consumer willingness to rent clothing is shaped less by ecological conviction than by confidence in what arrives at the door. A study conducted across two European markets, combining survey data from more than 4,000 respondents with qualitative focus group research, finds that odour, visible wear, and logistical friction rank consistently above environmental motivation as barriers to clothing rental adoption.

Everyday clothing exchanges between friends, partners and family members are shaping identity and strengthening relationships, a University of Birmingham study has found. By examining informal garment sharing, researchers highlight its social, emotional and practical roles, while pointing to its potential to extend garment use and support more sustainable fashion practices.

Global trade in secondhand clothing has expanded dramatically over three decades, intensifying scrutiny over quality, classification, and waste leakage. As volumes rise, weak border controls risk shifting disposal burdens rather than extending garment lifetimes. A new regulatory framework proposes technical standards, sorting mandates, and traceability rules to align trade flows with circular outcomes.

The economics of reuse are under strain as ultra-fast fashion floods markets with garments never designed to last. In this environment, circular systems are absorbing rising costs without corresponding value. Steven Bethell, Founder of Bank & Vogue and Beyond Retro, outlines how low-quality imports are destabilising charities, recycling infrastructure, and material integrity across the secondhand ecosystem.

Efforts to regulate global textile waste are reshaping debates over who defines sustainability and who bears its costs. A UNEP initiative to standardise “waste” classifications has triggered backlash from reuse economies, exposing how circularity policies can threaten livelihoods and distort trade while ignoring the real drivers of overproduction in wealthier manufacturing nations.