Now or Never: Paper Warns Against Further Deterioration of Textile Recycling Situation in EU

A paper by Zero Waste Europe has emphasised the urgent need to phase out hazardous chemicals and tackle the release of microplastics, outlining a vision where textile recycling is not just a niche activity but a cornerstone of the industry.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • The paper argues that recycling plays a crucial role, but only once manufacturers ensure high-quality and durable products, while prioritising local reuse and upcycling.
  • Ensure better regulation of textile waste exports by amending the current EU Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and Waste Shipment Regulation (WSR) as well as the Basel Convention, including the introduction of Prior Informed Consent (PIC) procedure.
One suggestion that the paper makes is to strengthen the legislative frameworks to curb the environmental impact of textiles, and implementation of circularity requirements.
THE WAY OUT One suggestion that the paper makes is to strengthen the legislative frameworks to curb the environmental impact of textiles, and implementation of circularity requirements. Svitlana / Unsplash

The EU textiles industry needs to reform its practices now or risk deteriorating further into an unsustainable and harmful business model, a new paper has warned.

  • The paper, A Zero Waste Vision for Textiles – Chapter 2: Circular and toxic-free material flows, has been published by Zero Waste Europe.
  • The paper emphasises the urgent need to phase out hazardous chemicals and tackle the release of microplastics, both of which cause a significant amount of pollution and are barriers to achieving a toxic-free circular economy. 
  • Consumers can be exposed to hazardous chemicals in textiles—such as PFAS and heavy metals—through skin contact, inhalation or unintentional ingestion of dust released from the materials. 
  • The most problematic chemicals can be found in textiles used by children and pregnant women, who are most vulnerable and may experience more adverse health effects. 
  • The paper argues that recycling plays a crucial role, but only once manufacturers ensure high-quality and durable products, while prioritising local reuse and upcycling. 
  • It outlines a vision where textile recycling is not just a niche activity but a cornerstone of the industry. ‘Downcycling’ is discouraged in the outlined best practices, meaning significant enhancements must be enacted in the preexisting infrastructure to allow high-quality fibres can be recycled.

THE WAY OUT: The paper has suggested some ways out of this situation:

  • Strengthen the legislative frameworks to curb the environmental impact of textiles, including bans on hazardous chemicals and implementation of circularity requirements under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) Delegated Act for textiles.
  • Ensure that when virgin materials are used for production, they come from bio-based and certified sources, while the principle of the cascading use for biomass must be enforced for bioplastics—meaning the use of material for durable products that are reusable and recyclable. Also, recycled content requirements must ensure that safe recycled content is always preferred over virgin input.
  • Increase demand for local reuse by introducing economic incentives for repair or labour cost reductions for repair and upcycling businesses. The role of social economy actors must be recognised by, e.g., ensuring priority access to public tenders for collection and combining social and circular benefits. Also earmarking Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fees to support a fund for change and justice that allocates funds to reuse and repair operations can make the sector more profitable.
  • Ensure better regulation of textile waste exports by amending the current EU Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and Waste Shipment Regulation (WSR) as well as the Basel Convention, including the introduction of Prior Informed Consent (PIC) procedure. Sorting for reuse must be enforced before exporting while support for the waste management capacity in recipient countries remains necessary.
  • Introduce recycled content requirements and recyclability criteria under the EU ESPR and waste management performance targets under EPR schemes. Particular focus should be placed on ‘closed-loop-recycling’, including a new definition in EU-legislation as well as recycling targets.

THE SERIES: This paper serves as the second chapter in a two-part series exploring fashion and textiles along the entire value chain. 

  • The first chapter—published in September 2023—emphasised the need to curtail production and consumption, while the subsequent instalment will delve into circularity, covering optimal design, use, reuse, recycling, and end-of-life treatment of textiles.

WHAT THEY SAID:

In view of the ongoing revision of the Waste Framework Directive, policymakers must seize the opportunity by ensuring that reuse and recycling are supported via legally binding targets in EPR systems. Apart from this, also the incoming ecodesign for textiles has the capacity to change the entire system. Well-designed legislation can benefit the health of citizens, improve reusability and boost recyclability of products.

Theresa Mörsen (Co-Author)
Waste & Resources Policy Officer 
Zero Waste Europe

Unlike other products, we can’t avoid coming in contact with textiles every day of our lives. That’s why the safety of these products is vital. The presence of harmful chemicals in our clothes not only threatens public health but also makes recycling even harder—undermining the transition towards a circular system.

Dorota Napierska (Contributor)
Toxic-Free Circular Economy Policy Officer 
Zero Waste Europe

If the textiles industry wants a cleaner image, changes must happen at the initial phases of production and during the development of the product to ensure that recycling is sustainable, safe, and enhances circularity. This means breaking up with the business-as-usual approach, and including recycled materials from textile waste. This report suggests concrete instruments for this much-needed makeover to respect both planetary boundaries and human health.

Lauriane Veillard (Contributor)
Chemical Recycling & Plastic-to-Fuels Policy Officer 
Zero Waste Europe

A Zero Waste Vision for Textiles
A Zero Waste Vision for Textiles – Chapter 2
Circular and toxic-free material flows
  • Authored by:

    Theresa Mörsen, Lauriane Veillard, Dorota Napierska

  • Edited by:

    Matías Roa Barrera (Zero Waste Alliance Chile), Nanna Bille Cornelsen, Esra Tat, Joan Marc Simon, Aline Maigret, Jack McQuibban, Janek Vahk, Enzo Favoino (ZWE)

  • Publisher: Zero Waste Europe
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  • Dated posted: 9 May 2024
  • Last modified: 9 May 2024