Lenzing Group has launched a new fibre, Tencel Lyocell – HV100, developed to reproduce the authentic look and texture of cotton denim. The fibre introduces controlled variation in length and structure, creating a more natural surface and vintage-style finish. With this launch, Lenzing aims to position Tencel for use in both warp and weft denim applications.
- HV100 provides a matte, opaque finish and eliminates the excessive sheen typical of earlier lyocell fabrics.
- The fibre retains Tencel’s softness and sustainability, overcoming earlier barriers to denim adoption.
- Lenzing plans to showcase HV100 at Kingpins Amsterdam, highlighting its latest advance in denim innovation.
INSIDE THE LAUNCH: The debut of Tencel Lyocell – HV100 marks Lenzing’s latest step to expand its sustainable fibres into denim’s main construction. Earlier Tencel versions were known for sheen and drape, restricting use to interior weaves. HV100 simulates the irregular fibre lengths of cotton, allowing a more natural texture and authentic washed-down look typical of classic jeans.
- The launch positions Tencel for warp yarn use, not only for weft applications.
- HV100 introduces engineered fibre variation between 10 and 28 millimetres, matching cotton’s natural inconsistency.
- This irregularity brings greater opacity and body, key to denim’s structural character.
- The development represents a milestone in balancing sustainability with performance and aesthetic needs.
ENGINEERING THE TEXTURE: HV100’s strength lies in its “high variation” design. Standard lyocell fibres are uniform in shape and length, while HV100’s controlled irregularity mimics cotton’s randomness. The resulting denim offers reduced sheen, improved body, and authentic surface depth, maintaining lyocell’s eco-efficient process while achieving the familiar tactility of cotton-based denim.
- The variable fibre structure diffuses light, producing a true matte finish and reducing reflective shine.
- It improves blending with cotton, supporting diverse yarn combinations and applications.
- Early mill tests confirm excellent wash-down results and dimensional stability.
- The technical consistency of Tencel Lyocell ensures long-term viability for industrial-scale production.
ON THE HORIZON: Lenzing has shared HV100 samples with mills including Advance Denim, Textil Santanderina, Orta Anadolu, and AGI Denim. Their trials delivered favourable results, supporting broader adoption. The fibre will feature at the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam, marking its formal introduction to the global denim community.
- Trial partners reported realistic denim texture, shade depth, and weaving compatibility.
- The Amsterdam showcase will display fabrics blending Tencel and cotton in authentic constructions.
- Wider mill testing will assess HV100’s global scalability and process adaptability.
WHAT THEY SAID:
With the introduction of Tencel Lyocell HV100, we are reaching a new milestone in denim innovation. This new development delivers the authentic wash-down performance and opaque, matte aesthetics of a genuine denim, while maintaining the sustainability advantages of Tencel. HV100 also enables new design expressions with textured surfaces and a natural, comforting softness — opening fresh possibilities for denim creators worldwide.
— Tuncay Kılıçkan
Head of Global Business Development, Denim
Lenzing Group
From a technical standpoint, Tencel Lyocell – HV100 allows us to innovate and co-create with our mill partners in new ways. The controlled variation opens up possibilities for yarns and fabrics that weren’t previously achievable with Lyocell. We’re already seeing innovative approaches from different markets that suggest significant potential for product differentiation. We look forward to working with even more partners to use these versatile fibres across a wider range of textile applications, from apparel to home
— Florian Heubrandner
Vice President, Global Business Management Textiles
Lenzing Group
