Fashion’s Growth Model Faces a Structural Climate Stress Test

Climate risk is increasingly being modelled not as a reputational concern but as a margin-level financial exposure. New analysis suggests operating profits in apparel could shrink sharply under accelerated net-zero transitions. Kristina Elinder Liljas, Senior Director of Sustainable Finance and Engagement at Apparel Impact Institute, argues that carbon exposure now belongs inside capital allocation models, not sustainability reports.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Stress-testing net-zero transition scenarios suggests unmanaged climate exposure could severely erode apparel company value and margins.
  • Carbon pricing, raw material inflation and energy volatility are identified as structurally embedded financial risks within existing business models.
  • Early, collaborative supplier investment aligned with capital cycles can significantly reduce long-term exposure and strengthen competitiveness.
Climate exposure in apparel is increasingly expressed in margins and capital flows rather than abstract sustainability metrics or voluntary disclosures.
Hazardous Exposure Climate exposure in apparel is increasingly expressed in margins and capital flows rather than abstract sustainability metrics or voluntary disclosures. AI-Generated / Reve

Earlier this month, Apparel Impact Institute (AII) published the findings of a research study, The Cost of Inaction, a landmark analysis shifting the climate narrative from corporate responsibility to financial necessity. Drawing on strategic insights from ten leading global apparel brands, the report illustrates how climate risks are increasing costs for companies in the fashion industry, with the potential to affect bottom lines by up to 34% in 2030 and up to 67% by 2040.

The report transforms climate risk into financial terms, quantifying the growing financial losses brands will incur unless they act against climate change and its risks. Drawing on insights from participating brands, the report identifies three primary risks – increasing carbon prices, and higher raw material and energy costs – to quantify how inaction on climate change impacts companies’ operating margins and drives material profit losses.

The report forms the backdrop to this interview.

texfash: Your report makes a deliberate shift from framing climate as a reputational or compliance issue to presenting it as a direct threat to operating margins—with potential bottom-line impacts of 34% by 2030 and 67% by 2040. When you modelled these scenarios, what assumptions proved most contentious with participating brands?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: Each brand has their own set of dependencies, anchored in their brand & product differentiation, business model, geographic footprint, size & capabilities, etc, meaning the conversations, and reactions, were quite individual. We did learn that many brands would like to have a tighter dialogue between sustainability and treasury teams than they have today. The Cost of Inaction report helps to bridge this internal gap.

It is clear the scope of material/textile fibre is highly complex and often rooted in a brand’s identity; this probably created the most discussions. This reporting is a starting point for many, and we believe brands will benefit from a separate analysis to better understand their individual risks and paths forward. 

The projection that inaction could erode up to 70% of industry value under a net-zero transition is striking. How should senior executives read that figure—as a stress-test against policy acceleration, a market correction scenario, or as a baseline risk that is already priced in too lightly?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: I would read it as a stress test under a net-zero transition—not as a baseline forecast of what will automatically happen, but as a credible downside scenario that is still underpriced in many balance sheets. It’s not saying that 70% erosion is inevitable. It’s saying that if the transition accelerates—through tighter policy, expanded carbon pricing, energy system shifts, increased material costs, or investor pressure—markets will reprice companies with unmanaged climate exposure.

And in a Scope 3–heavy industry like apparel, that repricing could be sharp rather than gradual. The more important shift for executives is how they frame the risk. Climate change is no longer an external ESG consideration; it directly affects cost structures, margins, asset values, and access to capital. When you translate it into COGS, supply chain resilience, and competitiveness, the relevance becomes clear.

You isolate carbon pricing, raw material inflation, and energy volatility as the three dominant financial pressures. In your analysis, which of these risks is most structurally embedded in current business models, and therefore hardest to unwind?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: Carbon pricing would be the most structurally embedded risk and hardest to reverse. Carbon pricing is different as it sits directly on Scope 3, where 96–99% of apparel emissions occur. That means it’s embedded in Tier 2 manufacturing and upstream energy systems. Unless those systems decarbonise, cost exposure compounds year over year.

Drawing from insights across ten global brands, what patterns did you observe in how climate risk is embedded—or not embedded—into financial planning? Is the gap primarily analytical, cultural, or strategic?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: Climate risk is still too disconnected from real business decisions. Sustainability and finance teams often operate in silos, and climate targets sit next to financial planning—not inside capital allocation. Sustainability teams usually understand the exposure well, but they often lack the business case and financial framing to unlock the investments required. When the CFO treats carbon as a balance sheet variable, not just a reporting metric and where sustainability and business KPIs are integrated, is often where we see the most success.

The report suggests that conventional operators delaying the energy transition will face compounding exposure, particularly where coal-based grids underpin manufacturing. Given the geographic concentration of apparel production, how feasible is rapid decarbonisation without large-scale systemic energy reform?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: Systemic grid reform is essential, but brands can’t afford to wait for national energy transitions to finish. In key production markets like Bangladesh and Vietnam, grids are still heavily fossil fuel based which indeed is a challenge, but not a reason to stand still. We’re already seeing workable supplier-level solutions such as electrification, onsite solar, heat pumps, and aggregated renewable procurement (PPAs). The path forward is twofold act now at the factory level, whilst also collectively pushing advocacy to clean up the grid.

You point to electrification, renewable procurement, and heat recovery as investment-ready interventions at supplier level. In practical terms, what is the real barrier—access to affordable capital, fragmented brand incentives, or insufficient long-term purchasing commitments?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: The barrier isn’t just one thing. It’s a mix of misaligned incentives, limited access to capital, and capability gaps—and what needs to be solved depends on which of those is holding suppliers back in each market. While some suppliers may have the technical capability and even the balance sheet to invest or access to affordable financing, without long-term purchasing commitments from brands, there’s little incentive to take on the risk.

If order volumes aren’t predictable, capital investments don’t make sense. Others face a different barrier. They may lack technical expertise, internal capacity, and access to affordable financing. In those cases, brands have a much more active role to play - funding feasibility studies, supporting technical assessments, aggregating demand, or helping unlock blended finance solutions. 

Your modelling shows that early investment can reduce exposure four- to five-fold by 2040. From a capital allocation standpoint, how early is early? Are we talking about immediate balance-sheet adjustments, or a phased transition aligned with asset depreciation cycles?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: From a capital allocation standpoint, ‘early’ means within this capex cycle and starting 2030. Even the earliest adopters are on a 5–10 year transition pathway, which aligns with normal asset cycles. It is critical that all new purchases and replacements of aging equipment optimise for climate outcomes. It is important to point out that while transition needs to start now, collaboration with other brands and across the supply chain allows brands to share costs and de-risk required investments.

Kristina Elinder Liljas
Kristina Elinder Liljas
Senior Director, Sustainable Finance and Engagement
Apparel Impact Institute

Carbon pricing would be the most structurally embedded risk and hardest to reverse. Carbon pricing is different as it sits directly on Scope 3, where 96–99% of apparel emissions occur. That means it’s embedded in Tier 2 manufacturing and upstream energy systems. Unless those systems decarbonise, cost exposure compounds year over year.

The report places unusual emphasis on CFOs as drivers of decarbonisation. In your experience, are finance teams now treating climate exposure as a core risk variable, or does it still sit adjacent to mainstream financial decision-making?

Kristina Elinder Liljas: Some are—but many aren’t there yet. We do see some leading finance teams taking this seriously - putting an internal price on carbon, factoring climate risk into investment decisions, and tying climate targets directly to sourcing allocation. But more often, climate sits outside business dashboards. It’s tracked, reported, and disclosed - but not integrated into capital allocation or operating decisions. That gap is why we chose to publish this report: to equip sustainability teams and CSOs with a clear business case, framed in financial terms, that resonates with CFOs. Once climate shows up in COGS line items, it becomes an issue that resonates with CFOs.

Collaborative financing and pooled investment are central to your recommendations. In an industry defined by thin margins and competitive sourcing, what mechanisms could realistically align brands around shared decarbonisation infrastructure?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: AII’s "Brand Playbook for Financing Decarbonization" outlines 12 financial strategies brands can undertake to encourage producers to invest in carbon reduction projects. It provides real-world examples, assessing the risks and benefits of each approach while recognising the need for tailored strategies across different brands and retailers. These “plays” that brands can use to enable supplier decarbonisation include:

  • Guarantees and credit enhancement
  • Co-investment in on-site upgrades
  • Sustainability-linked pricing
  • Long-term purchasing commitments
  • Brand-backed debt or concessional financing

Each play is assessed using consistent criteria, examining its impact on producer incentives, cost of capital, execution complexity and risk for brands. The central finding is that supplier decarbonisation will not scale without brand-backed finance. Brands are uniquely positioned to reduce risk, lower financing costs and send credible demand signals, yet these tools remain under-utilised and often disconnected from core sourcing and finance decisions.

Looking ahead, what would constitute clear evidence that the financial case for decarbonisation has genuinely taken root in the apparel sector? Conversely, what early warning signs would tell you that the industry is drifting towards the cost curves your report outlines?
Kristina Elinder Liljas: Momentum on the transition would be seen in decisions and capital allocation. Climate risk would be built into investment models. More brands would be co-investing with suppliers instead of pushing asking them to transition. Finance teams would treat Scope 3 exposure as core business risk. And companies would report on avoided costs—not just avoided emissions.

Clear warning signs include: brands still relying on coal-heavy manufacturing beyond 2030, delays in supporting the supplier transition, and if climate risk lives only in sustainability reports instead of financial disclosures.

Projected Financial Exposure
  • Modelling indicates potential 34% margin impact by 2030 under accelerated transition conditions.
  • Industry value erosion could reach up to 70% in severe net-zero stress scenarios.
  • Apparel emissions are concentrated in 96–99% Scope 3 supply chain sources.
  • Exposure compounds annually where coal-based grids underpin production markets.
  • Early action may reduce financial exposure four- to five-fold by 2040.
Financing the Transition
  • The Brand Playbook outlines 12 financial strategies to enable supplier decarbonisation.
  • Mechanisms include guarantees, credit enhancement, co-investment and long-term commitments.
  • Supplier upgrades often require electrification, onsite solar, heat pumps and renewable procurement.
  • Misaligned incentives and limited access to capital remain persistent barriers.
  • Finance teams integrating internal carbon pricing show stronger alignment with sourcing decisions.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
Dated posted: 23 February 2026 Last modified: 23 February 2026