Just 3.2 Points on 10: That's How Bad 235 Top Global Fashion Brands Fare Together on Circularity

The latest 2024 Circular Fashion Index (CFX) that measures fashion brands’ efforts to extend the lifecycle of their products and materials based on seven dimensions, has just 25 out of 235 players scoring 5 out of 10 or more. 

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Japanese, French, and DACH brands emerged as the leaders in CFX scores, with the United States following closely behind.
  • The top 10 brands studied include The North Face, Gucci, Levi’s, Lululemon, Madewell, OVS, Patagonia, Coach, Gant, and Lindex.
  • Indian brands’ scores lagged significantly behind their counterparts.
Gucci launched a collaboration with Vestiaire Collective, pioneering the f¬irst fully circular secondary luxury market, from quotation and authentication of a bag to sell-back to another consumer.
Best Practice Gucci launched a collaboration with Vestiaire Collective, pioneering the first fully circular secondary luxury market, from quotation and authentication of a bag to sell-back to another consumer. Vestiaire Collective

The fashion industry has cut a sorry figure in the latest 2024 Circular Fashion Index (CFX) published by consultancy firm Kearney, with only 25 brands (out of 235) scoring 5 out of 10 or more on the CFX.

  • The 235 fashion brands analysed this year achieved an average score of 3.20 out of 10—an increase of >0.2 points compared to 2023 results. This, the report said, was primarily driven by a slight improvement in primary market levers, while secondary levers remain flat.
  • There has also been a gradual increase of about 0.3 points in the adoption of circular design principles, including the use of renewable materials driven by footwear and fashion brands—most notably luxury and mass market players—investing in primary market levers.
  • Compared to the inaugural 2020 report, this year’s results show an average improvement of 1.2 points.
  • The top 10 brands are: The North Face, Gucci, Levi’s, Lululemon, Madewell, OVS, Patagonia, Coach, Gant, and Lindex.

THE NEW INDEX: The fourth edition of The CFX is both expanded and evolved. The scope has been expanded by nearly 20% over last year.

  • With the addition of Japan this year, the analysis now spans 18 countries and includes five key categories: fashion, sports, outdoor (previously analysed alongside the sports category), underwear and lingerie, and footwear.
  • CFX 2024 has introduced a refined price segmentation for the fashion category—distinguishing between luxury, premium/affordable luxury, mass market, and fast fashion brands.
  • The CFX score methodology for assessing a brand’s circularity efforts is based on seven critical dimensions. Brands’ circularity is evaluated from two perspectives: their impact on new product sales to consumers (primary market) and their impact on the secondary market, which includes used product sales and recycling. 
  • This year, the approach has expanded from focusing on recycled material share to including integration of circular design principles such as the balanced use of environmentally friendly materials and the avoidance of harmful chemicals.

THE SEVEN DIMENSIONS: The CFX measures fashion brands’ efforts to extend the lifecycle of their products and materials based on seven dimensions.

  1. Adoption of circular design principles, including employment of recycled or renewable fabrics.
  2. Availability of repair or maintenance service.
  3. Level of detail and accessibility of care instructions.
  4. Importance of circularity in brand communications.
  5. Breadth and depth of pre-owned garment assortment (second-hand sales).
  6. Breadth and depth of garment rental or leasing assortment (rental services).
  7. Availability of worn clothes drop-off for recycling (reusing returned clothes as raw material or for donating to charity).

MATERIAL FOR CASE STUDIES: The report mentions some notable best practices. 

  • Circular design principles | Adidas: In addition to increasing the use of recycled or sustainably sourced materials and working with Spinnova, In­inited Fiber Company, and Pond on innovative raw materials, Adidas is rethinking the design process along the lines of "made to be remade.”
  • Promotion and communication | Patagonia: The company rates its products on a 10-point scale based on repairability, durability, and functionality to drive areas of redesign for environmental impact.
  • Care instructions | Levi’s: The brand offers detailed jeans care instructions on its website along with links to its tailor shops. Additionally, detailed care instructions can be found on product pages.
  • Repair/maintenance service | Coach: Offers several repair options, including in-store repair and ship-in repair services.
  • Pre-owned assortment | Gucci: Launched a collaboration with Vestiaire Collective, pioneering the f­irst fully circular secondary luxury market, from quotation and authentication of a bag to sell-back to another consumer.
  • Rental/leasing models | Twinset: Launched PLEASEDONOTBUY programme to provide exclusive rental dresses.
  • Drop-off for reusage/charity | OVS: Offers drop-off for recycling in all 800 shops and is incentivizing the initiative by offering discounts on future purchases for each bag dropped off.

GEOGRAPHICAL DISPARITIES: In the CFX 2024 analysis, more than 80% of the brands studied came from key fashion markets such as the United States, France, Italy, India, DACH (the three Central European nations with German- speaking majorities—Germany, Switzerland, and Austria), and the UK.

  • While Indian brands’ scores lagged significantly behind their counterparts, brands from other countries show relatively consistent performance, with average scores ranging from 3.0 to 3.7. 
  • Japanese, French, and DACH brands emerged as the leaders in CFX scores, with the United States following closely behind.
The Kearney CFX 2024 report
The Kearney CFX 2024 report
Navigating material and product choices as key unlocks to circularity
  • Authored by:

    Brian Ehrig, Dario Minutella, Namrata Shah

  • Publisher: Kearney
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  • Dated posted: 3 July 2024
  • Last modified: 3 July 2024