Can India’s Handwoven Clothing Meet Global Demand Without Compromise?

In an era where fashion’s environmental impact has become impossible to ignore, sustainable clothing has emerged as both a catchphrase and a call to action. From global runways to rural looms, the push for more ethical, low-impact garments is gaining momentum. Yet, despite the clear surge in demand — especially for naturally dyed, handwoven fabrics — the sector remains entangled in a persistent challenge: how to scale sustainability without diluting its soul.

At the heart of this discussion was a vibrant panel hosted during a two-day Buyer-Seller Meet on Naturally Dyed Handwoven Fabrics, featuring Manish Saksena (Creative Head, Aadyam Handwoven), Ritika Gandhi (Vertical Lead CSR, Titan Company), and Prasad Bidapa (Veteran Fashion Stylist & Revivalist), moderated by Bhargavi Rao, a noted climate resilience strategist. Organised by Desi Trust and the Charaka Women’s Co-operative Society, the meet set the stage for a deeper interrogation into what sustainable clothing really means—and how to bridge the chasm between market appetite and craft capability.

What Is Sustainable Clothing, Really?

“Sustainability in clothing isn’t just about using organic cotton or avoiding synthetics,” said moderator Bhargavi Rao. “It’s about recognising the livelihoods, skills, and ecological systems that make clothing possible — especially in a country like India where millions are engaged in handloom and natural fibre crafts.”

Prasad Bidapa offered a resounding perspective: “Handwoven fabric and Khadi are integral to our culture — each piece is unique. It is not meant to be mass-produced or compared to machine-made goods. This uniqueness is the very definition of sustainable luxury.”

Bidapa also recounted his work on projects that fused tradition with modernity — from the Rajasthan Heritage revival with global designers to the Eri silk transformations in the Northeast and Kota Doria adaptations with designers like Saksena.

Manish Saksena, who helms Aadyam Handwoven, noted that true sustainability lies in co-creation and commitment: “We treat artisans not as beneficiaries but as partners. We work with them one-on-one, help with backend support and design inputs, and most importantly, take responsibility for marketing and storytelling. It’s not charity — it’s collaboration.”

Ritika Gandhi from Titan echoed this, highlighting the deep, slow work needed to genuinely support artisans: “We work with craft communities across India under our Tarasha programme, focusing on long-term support. Handmade takes time — it’s deeply human and cannot be managed like a mechanised supply chain.” Tarasha works with handicrafts under Titan's Indian Heritage Arts and Crafts vertical.

Why the Demand-Supply Gap Still Persists

The panel unanimously acknowledged the growing international interest in sustainable clothing, yet all three pointed out that the sector remains woefully underprepared to meet that demand.

One key reason? Misaligned expectations.

“The problem starts when we try to market handmade like fast fashion,” said Gandhi. “We expect uniformity, perfection, scalability — but that’s not how the handmade world works. It thrives on individuality, on the human touch. We must change our marketing mindset.”

Saksena added that corporate models don’t always translate to the artisan ecosystem. “When I was at Amazon, the approach was about scale, repeatability, and depth — which doesn’t work for craft. At Aadyam, we flipped the model: we buy everything the artisan produces, regardless of the outcome. That gives them confidence and dignity.”

For Bidapa, the only way to truly value handmade is by treating it as a premium product. “This is not everyday wear. It’s couture. It’s heirloom. A handwoven saree can last generations and carry stories. You don’t discount that. You honour it.”

The Role of Government and Systems

The panelists offered sobering insights on how current government interventions fall short of the sector’s needs. “In the entire Skill India programme, handmade crafts don’t feature,” lamented Bidapa. “Lathe machines are seen as skills — not looms or block prints. That’s a huge policy failure.”

Gandhi added that there is a complete absence of training infrastructure for traditional crafts. “There are no good institutions that teach hand skills. No structured curriculum. And ironically, even our national flag is now synthetic. That tells you everything you need to know about our policy priorities.”

Saksena pointed out that the handmade sector doesn’t need heavy infrastructure. “What it needs is market support — consumer awareness, better optics, and systems that don’t treat it like an industrial sector. But sadly, policymakers are still trying to apply factory logic to handmade work.”

On Pricing, Perception & the Power of Storytelling

Pricing remains a sensitive issue — with handmade often perceived as expensive or niche. The panel, however, urged a reframing of value, not a push for affordability. “Something that takes six months to make must not be priced like something made in six hours,” said Saksena. “We don’t need uniform pricing. We need transparent pricing and better storytelling.”

Gandhi added that youth education and awareness are critical for the future of the sector: “Our next generation needs to understand why handmade matters — why it’s better for the environment, for artisans, and for their own wardrobe. This isn’t just fashion — it’s culture, livelihood, and climate action all stitched together.”

Bidapa was emphatic about not commodifying craft: “Handmade must never be discounted. Discounting devalues the work. These are luxury goods. They must be presented like that — in premium showrooms, not dusty shelves.”

Can This Be Scaled Without Losing Its Soul?

One of the most debated questions was whether sustainable, handmade clothing can move beyond niche appeal to broader markets without compromising its essence. “The goal isn’t always scale — sometimes it’s sustained depth,” said Gandhi. “We don’t have to reach everyone. We have to ensure that those already doing this work continue, and are fairly compensated.”

Saksena, however, did see potential in horizontal expansion — not just in garments, but home furnishings, interiors, and everyday lifestyle products: “Handmade doesn’t have to mean saree alone. The international market for natural fabrics in upholstery, decor, and home accessories is massive. That’s where the scale lies.”

Bidapa added that media, pop culture, and celebrities could play a vital role: “We need handmade to be visible — on screen, on red carpets, in influencer wardrobes. That will do more for demand than any government scheme.”

From Intention to Impact

The panel concluded with a shared vision: sustainable clothing is not just about garments — it's about justice, climate, and cultural continuity.

To bridge the demand–supply gap, the sector doesn’t need more factories. It needs more respect for craftsmanship, systems that support artisans, and consumers who understand value over volume.

“If we create the demand,” said Saksena, “the supply will rise. Not by compromising authenticity — but by investing in it.”

As the world seeks answers to the climate crisis, India’s handmade ecosystem stands not just as a relic of the past — but as a beacon for the future of fashion. The challenge is to scale consciousness, not just commerce.