A need for alignment right from feedstock preparation to finished products for a textile-to-textile (T2T) recycling system to function, addressing logistics early on because of global waste regulations, and making adjustments through the value chain for recycled materials are some of the learnings that have emerged from Accelerating Circularity's much-anticipated Global Cotton Report.
- The report covers EU and US trials that were initiated in 2021 and aimed to address gaps in circular textiles research by bringing together various stakeholders to develop processes, relationships, business models, and materials necessary for enabling the transition of the textile industry from a linear to a circular system.
- In all, 43 companies participated from all levels of the industry, including textile collection, sorting, recycling (both mechanical and chemical), fibre blending, yarn spinning, knitting, weaving, manufacturing, and retail. Some stakeholders of the trials have already put the circular systems they developed into commercial use, with more slated to follow suit.
THE CHALLENGES: The following challenges emerged from the project:
- Fibre identification to meet recycler needs.
- The capability to provide feedstocks in the format required by the recyclers.
- Speed of sorting/preprocessing
- Industry preconceived notions about the quality/possibilities with recycled feedstocks.
THE HIGHLIGHTS: The results of the recycled cotton trials showcased the feasibility and value of engaging in circular, T2T recycling systems for cotton, as well as the benefits for all involved stakeholders.
- The project demonstrated that post-consumer (PC) feedstocks require precise sorting and complete detrimming. Colour sorting was particularly important because, with mechanical cotton, the output colour mirrors the input colour.
- The adoption of automation in this domain will play a pivotal role in advancing system maturity.
- Recycled cotton fibres can pass standard Restricted Substance List (RSL) testing, and minor detections are in a range that can be effectively blended out. This blending process is already necessary for mechanically recycled cotton to enhance fibre length and strength.
- From those fibres, the project developed a wide range of yarns, including in finer ranges than previously thought possible, up to 26/1 in the US and a range of ring spun yarns of 30/1 and 24/2 in Europe.
- Fabrics made from these yarns passed standard performance and quality criteria, including pilling and other areas of concern for brand partners for finished product marketability.
- In denim washdowns, to obtain lightest colours negatively impacts fabric strength, designers must evaluate the tradeoff between the desired colour range and the strength testing baseline.
COLLABORATING ORGANISATIONS: The following collaborated on the project:
- American Apparel & Footwear Association
- Apparel Impact Institute
- Circle Economy
- Fashion For Good
- Fashion Takes Action
- Goodwill Industries International, Inc.
- Outdoor Industry Association
- Bleckmann (The Renewal Workshop)
- Retail Industry Leaders Association
- Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles (SMART) Association
- Textile Exchange
- Textile Recycling Association (TRA, UK)
- United States Fashion Industry Association
