EU Textiles Strategy to have domino effect on rest of world

The recently-announced EU Textiles Strategy is likely to have a bearing on how the textiles-apparel-fashion industry works around the world. But before that can happen, the Strategy would have to be writ in law(s). A peek into how matters might unfold.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • If the final bill shows bold ambition, Europe could truly hold the textile industry accountable for its huge environmental impacts.
  • Since the over-arching sentiment is to cut down production, how are textile manufacturers and the textile service sector going to be affected?
  • It’s fair to say that textile manufacturers will be forced to adapt by designing clothing that is not only more sustainable in the ecological sense, but repairable and re-useable.
As the strategy emphasises repairability and reusability of textiles, it’s fair to say that textile manufacturers will be forced to adapt by designing clothing that is not only more sustainable in the ecological sense, but repairable and re-useable.
Manufacturing Fashion As the strategy emphasises repairability and reusability of textiles, it’s fair to say that textile manufacturers will be forced to adapt by designing clothing that is not only more sustainable in the ecological sense, but repairable and re-useable. Pixabay

The EU Textiles Strategy, announced last week, has already set minds thinking on a feverish pitch. While the decision to crack down on the menace of fast fashion and bring widespread greenwashing tactics under the legal scanner have dominated much of the discourse, the jury is out on how the wide-ranging policy guidelines will take the shape of legally-binding instruments.

At the core of the fashion ecosystem are textiles, and the EU rightly called it a 'textiles strategy'. So, how is the European textiles industry looking at the announcement? Is it growing to spur an innovation revolution? Since the over-arching sentiment is to cut down production, how are textile manufacturers and the textile service sector going to be affected?

Elena Lai, Secretary-General of the European Textile Services Association (ETSA), says: “It’s important to understand that this Textiles Strategy is but the most recent policy advanced by the European Commission (EC) designed to improve the sustainability of the greater textiles industry. ETSA members have been ‘on the ball’ for quite some time prior to the release of this Strategy, and this ‘innovation revolution’ has been ongoing in our membership from years now.”

Lai says ETSA members have been committed to the goals of both the EU Climate Pact and the Circular Economy Action Plan. ETSA in its role as European Commission Climate Ambassador, has acted as bridge between member companies and European policymakers, communicating both the best practices of the industry, and the latest in EU legislation. “Our industry is one that is inherently circular;, repair, reuse and recycling are fundamental to the business model we are promoting. Thus, since we represent textile services, we wholeheartedly welcome, right to repair, eco-design standards and regulations which will combat excessive waste, planned obsolescence and which will minimisze virgin resource extraction. Nevertheless, when the EU releases a Strategy of this magnitude, naturally we have our analysis, our take and our areas for concerns.”

Agrees Valeria Botta, Programme Manager at the Environmental Coalition on Standards (ECOS). “So far, the textiles sector had largely been untouched by EU sustainability policies. Last week’s Strategy, and the crucial decision to include textiles under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, are a real milestone. We need to reduce resource use, and we need clothes designed to be used, mended and loved for a long time. Textiles should be toxic-free and produced in a fair and sustainable way. The initiatives presented last week can give the right impulse to transform the market, also beyond Europe. If the final bill shows bold ambition, Europe could truly hold the textile industry accountable for its huge environmental impacts.”

The Strategy tries to make up for lost time. As Botta points out: “The strategy, alongside the ESPR (Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation) and the Green Claims initiative, is setting a vision for the future of this sector that has gone under the radar of sustainability policies for too long. We welcome the framework for setting ecodesign requirements for sustainable products. This ambitious legislative agenda could transform the way products placed on the EU market are designed, produced, reused and repaired. However, we warn that effectiveness will depend on speed and thoroughness when developing product-specific legislation.”

She elaborates: “On textiles, specifically, we urgently need to establish minimum ecodesign requirements that address durability, reusability, repairability and fiber to fiber recyclability, as well as eliminate hazardous chemicals, while tackling microplastic release and reducing the adverse impacts on climate and the environment. This is spelt out clearly in the strategy with mandatory performance requirements for the environmental sustainability of textile products foreseen by 2024. The true impact of the initiative will depend on its implementation via the product-specific delegated acts needed to translate text into action. Whether delegated acts will refer to standardisation is still to be seen. There are standards that are already available for many of those attributes, and some new ones might need to be created.”

But, the Strategy will need to remain rooted in realities as much. Contends Lai: “Fundamentally, goals, when it comes to microplastic discharge, filtering, PFAS and carbon footprints (too name a few examples), need to be realistic and provide the necessary support for the industry to make certain technological transitions. Throughout the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic and the energy crisis, our industry has partially found the support from both national and EU institutions to properly address the crisis. Our members are resilient and have proven their propensity to adapt and innovate, yet policymakers must continue to find ways to help them create and to adapt and this recent package was also thoroughly discussed on 30 March by Deploy London, who launched a Sustainable Fashion Forum in Brussels, in which ETSA participated very proactively. Already several ETSA members have been undertaking thorough debates at the national level with key stakeholders in the fashion sector, such as CWS with ‘Accelerating Circularity’ project. Therefore, we can envisage a lot of more partnership working in the future also at the European level.”

Next would be to see all guidelines and objectives translated into a legal framework. Says Botta, “With those announcements last week, the European Commission is taking a leap towards a truly circular economy, finally addressing negative environmental impacts embedded in product design. The Strategy has an Annex with a clear timeline on what to expect in the coming years, same with the other initiatives: there is a lot of work ahead to make those a reality. Some initiatives will now go through the scrutiny of the EU co-legislators (European Parliament and Council of the EU).”

Fashion Capital Milan Gets Ready

Milano (or, Milan) is the fashion capital that has evolved in its own way over hundreds of years. With the EU Textile Strategy coming into way, what small or big things do you see changing in Milano?

Milano is not just the showcase of collections and fashion shows. Milano is the epicentre of the fashion phenomenon, from market trends to product innovation. The unique business ecosystem that Milano offers permits start-ups, young designers and talents to be protagonists of the system: from setting up new companies and brands, up to experimenting new ways of open innovation, thanks to the presence of all the players of the fashion pipeline, and still a solid presence of the Italian manufacturing fashion system: a skilled, unique, and innovation-based system worthing almost €100 billion turnover, nowhere else available. It's the place where innovation and management meets creativity for creating job opportunities.

Nicola Guerini
Director-General
Milano Fashion Institute

Workers at a Vietnam factory. European brands will be called responsible for their sourcing options through new due diligence legislation, and imported products will need to comply with the same sustainability and information requirements as those produced in the EU internal market.
Due Diligence Workers at a Vietnam factory. European brands will be called responsible for their sourcing options through new due diligence legislation, and imported products will need to comply with the same sustainability and information requirements as those produced in the EU internal market. Pixabay

The World’s a Stage

For an industry as global in nature and as international in dimension as textiles-apparel-fashion, it can only be expected that what happens in the European Union (EU) will sooner than later have a ripple effect the world over, to varying extent and intensity, of course.

So, how will international brands/retailers with HQ in Europe work out things? Will there be scenarios wherein companies have to tread a thin line between Europe where there will be stringent laws and other countries where they can have a field day?

No, it’s not going to be a walk in the park for anyone. Dirk Vantyghem, Director-General of the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX), reasons that the European Commission has clearly recognised the global dimension of the textiles sector. “For any measure to be meaningful—from an environmental and competition perspective—it needs to consider the impact on the entire value chain. European brands will be called responsible for their sourcing options through new due diligence legislation, and imported products will need to comply with the same sustainability and information requirements as those produced in the EU internal market. The Commission announced more stringent market surveillance, to make sure this effectively happens.”

Lai looks at the wider canvas. “Europe, particularly through its wealth, exerts tremendous influence abroad. It is only to be expected that non-EU countries will adapt to the EU’s leadership when it comes to sustainability. We at ETSA know this as well, many of our members have facilities in non-EU countries. In our national associations we have representation for Switzerland, the United Kingdom, Norway and the US. Europe exercises most of its power through collective standardisation, which forces companies to adapt to European standards in order to access the enormously wealthy European market.”

Lai continues: “This has a domino effect by making uniformity in standardisation the most optimal business practice. Of course, in order for this to be effective, standards and regulations set by European institutions need to be well-known, transparent, realistic, and uniform and enforceable. Walking this line is much easier said than done. This is why the work we do at ETSA, particularly in the Standards Working Group is so valuable. We communicate directly with industry professionals and make their concerns known to policy/standards makers, thereby optimising the system. So, while, the EU Strategy may seem uniquely European, the strategy’s successful implementation will have a global ripple effect for the better.”

It is only a matter of time before the European Strategy becomes a global practice. But industry in Europe already has its task cut out.

Says Lai: “As the strategy emphasises repairability and reusability of textiles, it’s fair to say that textile manufacturers will be forced to adapt by designing clothing that is not only more sustainable in the ecological sense, but repairable and re-useable. This is something that textile services can really assist in—our members are not only experts in reparability and increasing the longevity of textile goods, but have also demonstrated ingenuity when it comes to creative methods to upcycle, downcycle and re-adapt textile goods to alternative uses. It is our belief that the business model of textile service companies, will (when properly supported by national and EU institutions) prove the most resilient to the EU strategy for sustainable textiles.”

When that happens, manufacturing practices in countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka will change too. Underlines Vantyghem: “The Strategy is indeed pushing for a fundamental shift in the production process, from linear to circular, but also from fast fashion to products with high durability and quality. Also, consumers will play an important role in this process, as they should have better access to easy-to-understand information on the environmental impact of textile products and their origin. All this will impact the type of products and how they are produced, in any country. Textiles and garment manufacturers should get ready for some serious changes.”

And, that’s the last word: get ready for some serious changes.

Dirk Vantyghem
Dirk Vantyghem
Director-General
EURATEX

Consumers will play an important role in this process, as they should have better access to easy-to-understand information on the environmental impact of textile products and their origin. All this will impact the type of products and how they are produced, in any country. Textiles and garment manufacturers should get ready for some serious changes.

This has a domino effect by making uniformity in standardisation the most optimal business practice. Of course, in order for this to be effective, standards and regulations set by European institutions need to be well-known, transparent, realistic, and uniform and enforceable. Walking this line is much easier said than done.

Elena Lai
Secretary-General
ETSA
Elena Lai
 

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  • Dated posted 8 April 2022
  • Last modified 8 April 2022