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Workers Rights / Ground Report

Union-Busting on Rise in Asia's Garment Sector, says Report

Findings from a survey reveal that the right to freedom of association and collective bargaining is under attack in major garment producing countries in Asia. texfash.com reports.

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12 October 2022

 3 minutes
Long Story, Cut Short
  • The Business & Human Rights Resource Centre interviewed trade union leaders and surveyed union activists and labour advocates in Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka.
  • Nearly two-third (61%) of survey respondents said the situation for freedom of association and collective bargaining has ‘gotten worse’ since the pandemic.
  • Allegations of union-busting and related abuse at 13 factories were revealed through the interviews.
Workers’ right to organise for decent work and a living wage are fundamental to advances for the millions of women workers making our clothes and shoes for poverty wages. This right has become even more important under the stresses of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Right to Decent Work Workers’ right to organise for decent work and a living wage are fundamental to advances for the millions of women workers making our clothes and shoes for poverty wages. This right has become even more important under the stresses of the COVID-19 pandemic. Maruf Rahman / Pixabay

The right to freedom of association and collective bargaining is under attack in major garment producing countries in Asia.

  • Nearly two-third (61%) of survey respondents say the situation for freedom of association and collective bargaining has ‘gotten worse’ since the pandemic, according to a report titled Unpicked: Fashion & Freedom of Association released on Tuesday.
  • Almost half (48%) of respondents reported an increase in discrimination, intimidation, threats and harassment of trade union members.
  • The findings are from the survey conducted by the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre, which were published in the form of the report.
  • The BHRRC interviewed 24 trade union leaders and surveyed 124 union activists and labour advocates in Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka.

The allegations: Allegations of union-busting and related abuse at 13 factories were revealed through the interviews.
These factories supply, or have recently supplied, to at least 15 global fashion brands and retailers, including Adidas, Asda, Benetton Group, Bestseller, C&A, Sainsbury’s, Etam, H&M, Hugo Boss, J Crew, OVS SpA, Mango, Next, Primark and Under Armour.

Abuses galore: Abuses have been rampant.

  • Almost a third (30%) of survey respondents reported an increase in gender-based violence and harassment as a result of the restrictions on trade union rights.
  • An increase in wage and severance theft as a result of trade union restrictions was reported by over half (58%) of survey respondents.
  • Over a quarter (27%) reported an increase in violence against trade union leaders.
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Young India Fashion Survey 2025

Despite making policy commitments to support freedom of association across their supply chains, with some even signing Global Framework Agreements with union federations, there remains a huge gap between policy and practice. This has left many fashion brands complicit in restrictions on freedom of association and resulting abuses.

What they said:

Brands have the power and leverage to make a difference. It’s time they realise the repression of freedom of association is closely associated with increased labour abuse and exploitation – which is a bad look for their business. Alongside engaging closely with unions and worker groups to conduct meaningful due diligence, brands must also actively work with their suppliers to highlight the importance of enabling workers’ ability to freely organise.

— Natalie Swan
Labour Rights Project Manager
Business & Human Rights Resource Centre

Straight after COVID we are now in an economic crisis, we don’t even have electricity during blackouts and inflation for food is over 50%. The workers are struggling to survive, they don’t have time to engage with trade union activities. When we call training programs and meetings, attendance is very poor. They are too busy in the queue in the petrol station to get fuel. It’s having a very bad impact on trade unions.

— Anton
Joint Secretary
Free Trade Zones and General Services Employees Union, Sri Lanka

Freedom to negotiate has been lost and collective bargaining with the factories has completely stalled as factories have used COVID as a tool to avoid negotiating with the union.

— Yang Sophorn
President
Cambodian Alliance of Trade Unions

 

It is clear voluntary approaches are failing; brands, despite being made aware of attacks on freedom of association and collective bargaining in their supply chains, have failed to implement effective change. There is an urgent need for governments to enact mandatory due diligence legislation and for brands to sign up to enforceable agreements with trade unions across their supply chain.

 
 
  • Dated posted: 12 October 2022
  • Last modified: 12 October 2022
 
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