Scaling Down to Scale Up: MycoWorks Announces Closure of US Plant to Refocus on Processing

NexttGen material innovator MycoWorks has announced plans to shut its Union, South Carolina factory — the flagship site once hailed as a breakthrough for Fine Mycelium production. The company said it would now source and process mycelium through partner tanneries worldwide using its Rei-Tan technology, a change that redefines both its business model and the emerging bio-materials landscape.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • MycoWorks will close its South Carolina factory and redirect focus to global processing through partner tanneries.
  • The Rei-Tan innovation lifts tensile strength four to five times, making mycelium a viable leather alternative at lower cost.
  • The closure reflects a maturing bio-materials sector where collaboration and licensing replace expensive factory builds as the route to scale.
4.	Mycelium materials promised a revolution in sustainable design; their economic challenges reveal how innovation alone cannot sustain industries without consistent demand and viable production models.
Broken Promise Mycelium materials promised a revolution in sustainable design; their economic challenges reveal how innovation alone cannot sustain industries without consistent demand and viable production models. MycoWorks

The world’s first commercial Fine Mycelium plant, MycoWorks’ grand South Carolina experiment, is shutting down barely a year after its launch. Built to prove that mushroom leather could rival cowhide, the 136 000-square-foot factory will soon stand quiet. The reversal is abrupt and symbolic: an industry once brimming with promise now watches its brightest flagship dim, undone not by science but by the hard economics of expensive capital, thinning investment, and the relentless pressure of scaling sustainability.

The announcement did not come through a traditional corporate channel but—surprisingly—via a LinkedIn post by Chief Executive Officer Matthew Scullin. In a letter addressed to employees, partners, and the wider industry, he announced that MycoWorks would close the plant and pivot from growing mycelium to processing it. “This was a tough but clear decision,” he wrote, calling it a logical evolution rather than a retreat. The informal setting amplified the shock: a multibillion-dollar industry learned of its biggest setback through a social-media scroll.

When the Union facility opened in September 2023, it was promoted as the world’s first commercial-scale Fine Mycelium plant and a template for industrialising bio-manufacturing. Automation covered about 80% of its operations: robots moved trays, data systems tracked growth, and quality controls were calibrated to deliver millions of square feet of material each year. More than a thousand sheets were harvested within months, and the first revenue shipments followed in early 2024.

That momentum has been undone by economics. Rising interest rates and a decline in US manufacturing sentiment pushed the cost of capital to levels that no young bio-manufacturer could sustain. The factory that symbolised confidence in American re-industrialisation is now a victim of the same pressures facing traditional manufacturers—high debt, delayed orders, and investors demanding profitability before scale.

MycoWorks will close the Union plant and redirect its focus to processing and finishing rather than growth. The shift moves the company from producer to processor, preserving its Rei-Tan technology while avoiding the overheads of running a dedicated factory. By using existing tanneries and contract suppliers, it reduces risk and expands reach without new construction. For investors, it transforms the business model from one that consumed capital to one that licenses it.

Scullin wrote: “This logical transition comes with the tough decision to close our plant in South Carolina. This plant was ambitious and pioneering; the team in South Carolina solved infections, yield loss, and the operational complexity of a brand-new biomanufacturing process. The result, however, proved to be too expensive for the world we currently live in. Whereas capital was abundant and cheap for innovators like MycoWorks just a couple of years ago, times have changed; amidst the backdrop of a slew of late-stage bio, food, ag, and alternative leather companies going under and seven straight months of decline in the United States ISM Manufacturing PMI, our factory in South Carolina now has a cost of capital that is too high to warrant, especially when cheaper sources of mycelium exist that can also be elevated with our Rei-Tan technology.”

The decision also changes the narrative for biomaterials. Fine Mycelium proved that a fungal network could be engineered into a luxury-grade sheet; its factory showed that bio-fabrication could run at industrial speed. Now the same case study demonstrates that scale alone is not security. What survives is the technology and a pragmatic recognition that success in sustainable materials depends less on owning machines than on learning how to use them efficiently—wherever they are.

After the Factory: A New Supply Logic

MycoWorks’ next phase will begin not with another building but with a change in method. The company that pioneered Fine Mycelium production is repositioning itself as a processor and licenser of technology rather than a manufacturer. Its Rei-Tan treatment now will sit at the centre of that strategy, offering a bridge between laboratory precision and industrial output.

The technical step is decisive. Rei-Tan lifts the tensile strength of mycelium from roughly 4 MPa to about 18 MPa, multiplying durability while preserving flexibility. Because the process can be applied to any mycelium, not only the material grown by the company, performance no longer depends on a single facility. This detachment from place allows production to occur wherever growth is cheapest and processing expertise already exists.

That principle is shaping a networked model built around partnerships. Tanneries such as Curtidos Badia and others in Europe are being equipped to finish mycelium sheets under licence. Earlier collaborations — with Hermès, Ligne Roset and GM Ventures — provide entry points into fashion, furniture and automotive markets. In theory, such diversification spreads risk; in practice, it shifts exposure to suppliers whose own markets are uncertain.

Economics drives the change as much as technology. Closing the Union plant cut heavy fixed costs and opened access to cheaper feedstock from producers in Asia and Europe. Using existing leather-processing infrastructure avoids new capital expenditure while matching expected quality and throughput. Each finished sheet carries an estimated footprint of 2.7–5.8 kg CO₂e per m², but efficiency on paper has not yet translated into consistent profit.

The latest iteration of Reishi removes the cotton insert used in earlier versions, producing a mycelium-only sheet with fewer defects and higher tensile strength. Yet even this advance cannot hide the broader issue: if several firms can now grow mycelium, either the market is oversupplied, or demand is failing to materialise. The claim of abundant alternative sources suggests not maturity but saturation.

Scullin wrote: “The field of mycelium materials is maturing; mycelium leather is widely recognized among fashion, luxury, and design brands, many of which have now experimented with it. Yet adoption is still low due to scale and cost. The future of this industry lies in collaboration, where complementary technologies and expertise come together to unlock commercial potential. The world needs many inexpensive sources of mycelium, such as those grown in Asia and Europe. Just as cowhide leather exploded in usage only after the advent of chrome-tanning in the 1980s because of the performance improvement that technology gave it, mycelium has needed this sort of breakthrough that Rei-Tan provides to turn it from an interesting raw material into a great product.”

MycoWorks’ retreat from production exposes a reality long avoided in biomaterials. Scaling a substitute is not the same as building a market. The company’s decision may preserve its technology, but it also confirms that the economics of mycelium leather remain fragile. What began as proof that innovation could rival leather now stands as evidence that the industry built around it is struggling to live up to its own over-hyped promise.

The tension between performance claims and performance demand may still define this sector. MycoWorks’ Reishi line still carries marketing language about matching high-end leather performance and offering near-zero-plastic finishes. But until those claims translate into sustained orders and repeat manufacturing runs, the problem is not how strong the material can become — it is how weak the market remains for alternatives that cannot justify their own factories.

From Factory to Framework
  • Fine Mycelium Union Plant closed a year after launch, ending industrial-scale bio-manufacturing ambitions in South Carolina.
  • Shift to Processing: MycoWorks now sources mycelium globally and applies its Rei-Tan technology through licensed tanneries.
  • Automation Legacy: The former 136 000-sq-ft facility operated at roughly 80 percent automation, proving process control, not profitability.
  • Cost Rationale: Rising capital costs and a weak U.S. manufacturing PMI made continued production financially untenable.
  • Lesson: Industrial proof of concept alone cannot sustain alternative-materials ventures once funding cycles contract.
Reality Check for Biomaterials
  • Performance Leap: Rei-Tan increases tensile strength from about 4 MPa to 18 MPa, enabling mycelium-only Reishi with fewer defects.
  • Environmental Claims: Reported carbon footprint ranges between 2.7 and 5.8 kg CO₂e per m² for finished sheets.
  • Network Model: Partnerships with Curtidos Badia, Hermès and GM Ventures spread exposure across markets yet test supply stability.
  • Market Signal: Multiple producers and slowing demand suggest overcapacity rather than healthy competition.
  • Industry Verdict: Scaling sustainability remains unresolved; innovation without demand is the sector’s central contradiction.
 
 
  • Dated posted: 22 October 2025
  • Last modified: 22 October 2025