Greenpeace Takes the Shein off; Hazardous Chemicals Found in Fast Fashion Giant’s Products that Break EU Regulations

Fast fashion giant Shein finds itself in the dock yet again as tests on its products by Greenpeace Germany reveal hazardous chemicals that break EU regulatory limits.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Product tests on 47 Shein products found that seven of them (15%), contained hazardous chemicals that break EU regulatory limits, with five of these breaking the limits by 100% or more.
  • At least one hazardous chemical was quantified in 45 of the 47 products, although most were at relatively lower levels.
  • The products were sent to independent laboratory BUI for chemical analysis.
The textile retailer Shein has opened a 5-day pop-up shop in the Forum Schwanthaler Höhe in Munich. Shein is a mail order company that offers fast fashion online for a young target group.
Pop-Up Hazard The textile retailer Shein has opened a 5-day pop-up shop in the Forum Schwanthaler Höhe in Munich. Shein is a mail order company that offers fast fashion online for a young target group. Maria irl / Greenpeace

An uncomfortably large proportion of fast fashion company Shein's products contain hazardous chemicals that break EU regulatory limits, an investigation by Greenpeace has found.

  • Product tests on 47 Shein products found that seven of them (15%), contained hazardous chemicals that break EU regulatory limits, with five of these products breaking the limits by 100% or more, while according to the tests a total of 15 of the products contain hazardous chemicals at levels of concern (32%).

The Study: Greenpeace Germany bought 42 items, including garments and footwear for men, women, children and infants, from Shein websites in Austria, Germany, Italy, Spain and Switzerland, and five items from a pop-up store in Munich, Germany.

  • The products were sent to independent laboratory BUI for chemical analysis.
  • The findings – which include very high levels of phthalates in shoes and formaldehyde in a baby girl’s dress – proved, according to Greenpeace Germany, Shein’s "careless attitude towards environmental and human health risks associated with the use of hazardous chemicals, in pursuit of profit."
  • The company, which is headquartered in Nanjing, China, is breaking EU environmental regulations on chemicals and risking the health of consumers and the workers at the suppliers that make the products.
  • The report, titled Taking the Shine off SHEIN: A business model based on hazardous chemicals and environmental destruction, was authored by Madeleine Cobbing, Viola Wohlgemuth and Lisa Panhuber.

Hazardous Findings: Out of the 47 products bought by Greenpeace Germany, 7 contained hazardous chemicals in excess of EU regulatory limits -- 15% of the products.

  • All 7 of these products were made wholly or partly from synthetic, fossil-fuel based materials; 6 of these 7 products were boots or shoes.
  • Very high levels of phthalates were found in 5 boots or shoes, compared to the requirement in the EU’s REACH regulation of <1,000 mg/kg.
  • The highest level of phthalates was found in some black snow boots bought in Switzerland, at 685,000 mg/kg of DEHP (680%).
  • A total of 15 of the products contained hazardous chemicals at levels of concern (32%), including 6 products containing DMF(N,N-Dimethylformamide), and lead found in a polymer at 4500 mg/kg.
  • At least one hazardous chemical was quantified in 45 of the 47 products, although most were at relatively lower levels.
On behalf of Greenpeace, textiles from the mail order company SHEIN are tested for toxic substances such as volatile organic compounds (VOC) at the Bremen Environmental Institute (Gesellschaft für Schadstoffanalysen und Begutachtung mbH). Photo shows preparation of the samples by crushing and analysis.
Toxic Analysis On behalf of Greenpeace, textiles from the mail order company Shein are tested for toxic substances such as volatile organic compounds (VOC) at the Bremen Environmental Institute (Gesellschaft für Schadstoffanalysen und Begutachtung mbH). Photo shows preparation of the samples by crushing and analysis. Kay Michalak / Greenpeace

What is Alarming: The concern is that Shein products with illegal levels of hazardous chemicals are being widely sold in Europe, contravening EU regulations, with potential impacts on consumers.

  • It also suggests that Shein itself has little oversight of hazardous chemical management within its supply chain. It is therefore exposing workers to these hazards when products are made.
  • Its suppliers who make the fabrics and materials are likely to be impacting the environment and local communities by releasing these hazardous chemicals into the air and wastewater.

What They Said:

Shein products containing hazardous chemicals are flooding European markets and breaking regulations—which are not being enforced by the authorities. But it’s the workers in Shein’s suppliers, the people in surrounding communities and the environment in China that bear the brunt of SHEIN’s hazardous chemical addiction. At its core, the linear business model of fast fashion is totally incompatible with a climate-friendly future—but the emergence of ultra-fast fashion is further accelerating the climate and environmental catastrophe and must be stopped in its tracks through binding legislation. Alternatives to buying new must become the new norm.

Viola Wohlgemuth
Toxics and Circular Economy Campaigner
Greenpeace Germany

The pop-up shop in the Forum Schwanthaler Höhe in Munich. The fast fashion business model is notorious for the huge volumes of oil-based clothes  that are produced, the speed they are brought to market, and for stories of outsize environmental and social impacts.
Very Fast The pop-up shop in the Forum Schwanthaler Höhe in Munich. The fast fashion business model is notorious for the huge volumes of oil-based clothes that are produced, the speed they are brought to market, and for stories of outsize environmental and social impacts. Maria irl / Greenpeace
 
 
  • Dated posted: 24 November 2022
  • Last modified: 24 November 2022