Fallout of Brexit and COVID: UK Businesses Have Suffered Immensely; Innovation and Sustainability Now Key Drivers

A new report that examines the impact of Brexit and COVID-19 on the fashion, textile and technology ecosystem in the UK, offers five key recommendations to support future growth.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • This is perhaps the first report that recounts by academia on the impacts of Brexit, the COVID-19 pandemic, the Climate Emergency and the war in Ukraine on the UK fashion, textiles and technology (FTT) ecosystem.
  • Brexit and the COVID-19 pandemic have contributed to the decline in skilled workers within the UK FTT ecosystem.
  • While businesses within the UK FTT ecosystem have faced unprecedented times over the past few years, the resilience and determination of companies has been remarkable.
According to the report—Impact of Brexit and COVID-19 on the UK Fashion and Textiles Technology Ecosystem—the COVID-19 pandemic has had lasting financial impacts owing to the closures of businesses on the high street and the initial closure of factories during the first lock downs.
Brexit and Pandemic According to the report—Impact of Brexit and COVID-19 on the UK Fashion and Textiles Technology Ecosystem—the COVID-19 pandemic has had lasting financial impacts owing to the closures of businesses on the high street and the initial closure of factories during the first lock downs. John Crozier / Unsplash

Brexit, the COVID-19 pandemic and the war in Ukraine have caused significant financial disruption for many UK FTT businesses. 

  • The increase in shipment costs, import and export duty tariffs and the sheer rise in energy and raw materials has made it increasingly difficult for businesses to operate, says a new report.

THE RESEARCH: The report has been jointly published by the Business of Fashion, Textiles and Technology (BFTT) led by the University of the Arts London and the Future Fashion Factory (FFF) led by the University of Leeds with UKFT’s Adam Mansell as chair of the project.

THE FINDINGS: Here's a summary of the findings, clubbed under different heads.

Brexit and Covid: According to the report—Impact of Brexit and COVID-19 on the UK Fashion and Textiles Technology Ecosystem—the COVID-19 pandemic has had lasting financial impacts owing to the closures of businesses on the high street and the initial closure of factories during the first lock downs. 

  • While some businesses have found ways to mitigate these impacts, others have remained more vulnerable, particularly smaller start-up businesses who are unable to incur these increased costs associated with import and export tariffs and energy prices, while maintaining a business that can endure the lasting impacts of the pandemic. 

Skills Shortage: Brexit and the COVID-19 pandemic have contributed to the decline in skilled workers within the UK FTT ecosystem. 

  • The introduction of new visa requirements to work in the UK after Brexit, coupled with the migration of non-UK citizens back to their homeland during the pandemic as a result of redundancies or the furlough scheme, has meant that many UK FTT businesses are now struggling to find people with the necessary skillset
  • This has secondary impacts such as impeded business growth and difficulties in the retainment of current staff due to the ever-increasing competition within the industry. 

Resilience: While businesses within the UK FTT ecosystem have faced unprecedented times over the past few years, the resilience and determination of companies has been remarkable. 

  • Many have made redundancies, closed factories, lost business to EU markets and suffered significant financial losses. Yet, there was an overwhelming sense in the industry to carry on regardless with numerous businesses diversifying into new market areas and making positive changes to their business. 

Business Diversification, Innovation and Digital Acceleration: During the pandemic, many FTT businesses found time to reflect on the strategy and structure within the company, with many adopting new ways of working, such as flexible working practices or changes in the operational functions. 

  • Second, the pandemic also prompted businesses to diversify, with many manufacturing businesses producing essential items deemed necessary during the pandemic, while others have developed innovative new solutions or materials. 
  • Digitalisation has also been a key driver in varying areas of the supply chain, including marketing, design and manufacturing. 

Environmentally Conscious Attitudes towards more sustainable business models and impacts that companies have on the environment are certainly apparent within the FTT ecosystem. 

  • Businesses are mindful of their material choices, working practices, generation of waste and their carbon footprint. And while the recent global challenges may have been a time to reflect on business policies, this has not been a key driver in decision making, with most businesses already working towards a more sustainable and environmentally conscious future including the UK net zero strategy.
Environmentally Conscious Attitudes towards more sustainable business models and impacts that companies have on the environment are certainly apparent within the FTT ecosystem.
Sustainable Business Environmentally conscious attitudes towards more sustainable business models and impacts that companies have on the environment are certainly apparent within the FTT ecosystem. John Cameron / Unsplash

KEY RECOMMENDATIONS: The research highlights the opportunities and challenges currently evident within the sector, and as a result, five key recommendations are proposed to support the growth and prosperity of the fashion, textile and technology industry in the UK.

  1. Reducing the cost and complexity of trade: Reduce cost and complexity of trade post-Brexit, to increase access to global markets and improve competitiveness, particularly for startups and SMEs, e.g. through tax breaks, transparency, and clear guidelines.
  2. Growing capacity and competency: Grow capacity and competency of the UK FTT sector, to reduce carbon footprint and create employment opportunities, e.g. through business development support, government subsidies, grants and incentives, training, and visa programmes for skilled workers. 
  3. Building resilience: Build resilience post-COVID-19 through agility, flexibility and diversification to protect financial sustainability of FTT businesses, e.g. through business guidance, mentorship and training. 
  4. Driving digital innovation and prioritising sustainable and ethical practices: Drive digital innovation in the FTT sector to increase capacity, efficiency and sustainability e.g. through increased access to digital tools and training, particularly for start-ups and SMEs. 
  5. Prioritise sustainable and ethical practices to address the climate crisis, improve health and equity for all, e.g. through legislation, government incentives and grants, investment in infrastructure, accreditation and business guidance.

THE AUTHORS: Caroline Hemingray, Alessandra Vecchi, Francesca Bonetti, Professor Steven Toms, Sophie Bulman, Anja Connor-Crabb, Yue Guo, Emmanuel Sirimal Silva and Laura Solomon. Support provided by the fashion & textile creative industries cluster programmes BFTT and FFF and cluster directors Professor Jane Harris and Professor Stephen Russell.

  • This research was a collaborative project made possible with support and funding from AHRC, BFTT, FFF, ESRC Impact Acceleration Account (ESRC IAA), Leeds University Business School (LUBS), UAL LCF Fashion Business School, UKFT and UKRI.
  • Both BFTT and FFF are part of the Creative Industries Clusters Programme (CICP), an £80 million initiative funded by the Industrial Strategy Challenge Fund, delivered by the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) on behalf of UK Research and Innovation (UKRI). 
  • The BFTT is a £5.8 million research and development (R&D) programme, focusing on tackling the climate emergency through innovative R&D industry partnerships. Led by the University of the Arts London (UAL) in collaboration with Loughborough University, University College London, the University of Leeds, Queen Mary University of London, the University of Cambridge, and the Victoria and Albert Museum, the programme aims to change the shape of the fashion, textiles and technology industry. 
  • Key industry partners include leading Fashion, Textiles and Technology (FTT) brands, online retailers, emergent design companies, FTT business trade associations, including the UK Fashion & Textile Association, the British Fashion Council, and Local Enterprise Partnerships
  • The Future Fashion Factory (FFF) is a £5.6 million industry-led collaborative R&D programme. It brings together designers, manufacturers and retailers, to co-develop and implement new advanced textile and industrial digital technologies (IDTs) to create new products and enable shorter lead times, increased global competitiveness and sustainability. 
  • Led by the University of Leeds in partnership with the University of Huddersfield, the Royal College of Art and Manchester Metropolitan University, industry partners include the UK Fashion and Textile Association, the Textile Centre of Excellence, and over 500 businesses. Future Fashion Factory is part of the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC), a collaborative, multi-disciplinary research institute addressing global challenges in textiles, fashion and colour through research and innovation, as well as teaching.

WHAT THEY SAID:

The UK’s departure from the EU was the biggest change in the global trading environment in decades. With the EU accounting for 75% of the UK’s fashion and textile exports and over 30% of the sectors imports, the implications of the change in relationship were always going to be hugely significant. Confidence in the UK as a supply base has fallen sharply with many European companies declining to do business with UK brands due to the new trading difficulties. These difficulties are likely to increase with development of the EU’s ambitious and comprehensive textile sustainability strategy. The strategy will see a dramatic increase in legislation requiring better monitoring and reporting for all fashion and textiles sold in the EU and will apply to UK suppliers. This report highlights many of the on-going issues faced by the UK fashion and textile industry, particularly those SMEs and micro businesses who make up over 80% of the industry. However, the report also highlights the resilience and adaptability of UK fashion and textile companies when faced with challenges such as Brexit and COVID-19.

Adam Mansell
Chief Executive Officer
UK Fashion & Textile Association

 
 
  • Dated posted: 13 July 2023
  • Last modified: 13 July 2023