The UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) is working with industry partners from throughout the UK supply chain on a series of government-funded projects focused on textile recycling infrastructure, circular fashion and sustainable manufacturing.
- The project was announced as part of the Creative Industries Council Sector Vision by the Secretary of State for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport, Lucy Frazer MP, 14 June.
The projects: The first is a £4 million project will develop and pilot a pioneering fully-integrated, automated sorting and pre-processing demonstrator for waste textiles (ATSP), which could eventually divert thousands of tonnes from landfill each year.
- The Autosort for Circular Textiles Demonstration (ACT UK) is a two-year project that will support the transition from uneconomic manual sorting of clothes and textiles that are not suitable for resale to highly-automated sorting and pre-processing, which can then be used as feedstock for existing and emerging recycling processes.
The working: ACT UK will build on sorting approaches that are currently coming to market in countries such as the Netherlands, Spain and Sweden. The UK approach will innovate, combine and advance existing and new supporting technologies to overcome current barriers to materials circularity.
- The project will bring together and advance key technology components including state of the art optical scanning, robotics, AI, pre-processing (buttons, zips, trim removal) and size reduction equipment—all under one roof. It will create a world-class blueprint that integrates the latest technologies and can be deployed across the UK.
The stakeholders and funding: ACT UK brings together a consortium of recycling technologies, textile collectors/sorters, academia, manufacturers, industry associations, technologists and brands/retailers, supported with funding from Innovate UK.
- It is part of a broader Circular Fashion Programme supported by Innovate UK, the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) and the Natural Environment Research Council (NERC), all part of UK Research and Innovation (UKRI).
Project partners: With close involvement of Circle-8 Textile Ecosystems, the project partners are IBM, Marks & Spencer, Tesco, Pangaia, New Look, Reskinned, Salvation Army, Oxfam, Textile Recycling International, Shred Station, Worn Again Technologies, English Fine Cottons, Alex Begg, Camira, Manufacturing Technology Centre, University of Leeds, University of Huddersfield, Textile Recycling Association and WRAP.
- Other partners are expected to join the consortium.
The backdrop: Over 1 million tonnes of used textiles are generated annually in the UK.
- Estimates suggest that a third of these are non-rewearable textiles (NRT) which are currently being lost to landfill/incineration or are being exported, to be sorted in lower cost labour regions.
- Manual sorting of used textiles has its limitations. It is not possible to sort garments by fibre composition ‘by eye’ and pre-processing (button, zip and trim removal) and sizing steps required by textile recyclers haven’t been optimised and customised to meet their individual specifications. No scaled process currently exists which brings all of this into one industrial process or facility.
- The largest network for fashion and textile companies, UKFT represents the entire UK fashion and textile supply chain, from spinning, weaving and knitting, right through to the catwalk.
WHAT THEY SAID:
What happens to our textiles when we no longer need them is a growing problem that we cannot ignore. With this ground-breaking project, we’re aiming to create a model to sort and prepare NRT for recycling in a way that’s never been done before, at scale. A national system of recycling plants could save 100,000s of tonnes of material from entering landfill. In turn, the system could generate huge volumes of material for use across the UK textile manufacturing sector.
— Adam Mansell
Chief Executive Officer
UK Fashion and Textile Association
