Spotlight: Fabric Outlook

It's Agreed. Transparency Will Be Key to Sustainability Claims

As the Autumn/Winter 2024/25 edition of Munich Fabric Start gets all set and ready to welcome the global fashion fraternity on 18 July, texfash.com tries to gauge what's happening on the ground with a mélange of impressions and opinions.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Embracing transparency may present challenges along the way, but it is an opportunity for companies to excel in their field and inspire others to adopt a similar business model.
  • Everyone should be part of the change towards a healthier, cleaner future.
  • Companies must prioritise transparency when communicating with their audience.
Algaeing is driven by the belief in creating a largescale positive impact. By leading with transparency and showcasing various aspects of its process, the company aims to create a movement where other brands and companies align with our values.
Big Impact Algaeing is driven by the belief in creating a largescale positive impact. By leading with transparency and showcasing various aspects of its process, the company aims to create a movement where other brands and companies align with our values. Algaeing

NB: texfash.com is a Media Partner at Munich Fabric Start Autumn/Winter 2024/25.

If you are in the textiles-apparel-fashion industry and happen to spend some time on social media, particularly in LinkedIn, you would have been inundated by Zoom-driven webinars on various aspects of sustainability in industry. It's been so done to the death since COVID-19 pandemic began, then you know what someone is going to say before s/he even says it.

It, naturally, is of essence that one also tries to gauge what's happening on the ground. It is verily true that agendas are set out in those webinars, but then what are ground truths like for manufacturers and innovators? What are the things working out in the field? 

A mélange of impressions and opinions:

Dilek Erik; Global Marketing Manager, Sharabati Denim: We reflect our sustainability efforts on all our collections. From fibre to wastewater treatment, we work on every step in the production and recycle or reduce the chemical/yarn/water that we use as much as possible. We prove our efforts by certifications like GRS, GOTS, ISO 9000-45001-14001- 27001, Oekotex, etc. We also have a high index for both of our Egypt and Türkiye mills. Our main customers like Inditex or PVH are doing their own inspections and valuing our production every year.

Cherish Brouwer; Co-founder and Creative Director, Knitwear Lab: With our new sample method, we use up to 50% less energy, materials, and shipping. So, that’s 50% less pollution. We push knitwear as a production method with less waste and a flexible production method to avoid surplus. And yes, we are extremely transparent: we have an open door, opensource policy and we train our customers and competitors with our workshops. We cannot be more open!

Sarah Meyers and Laura Fügmann; Founders, Meyers & Fügmann: As designers we have the responsibility to consider the whole production process of a textile. Being a small design office, we have to take small steps, see where we can take action and change small bits, but in a consistent way. We advocate slow consumerism, and believe that the objects we use in our daily lives should consider the geographical origins of materials, the social value of production processes, and the environmental impact of a products’ lifecycle.

The light-responsive technology has the poetic power of rendering the passage of time visible. It speaks to the emotional relationships people develop with objects: incorporating change and encouraging longevity by turning time and memory into tangible elements of the design. The paths along which products travel, from farm to factory, from studio to shop, become tangible in the objects we design. By embedding traces of making, creating new value chains and preserving specific knowledge and crafts, we forge new connections between production, design and consumption.

Aniela Hoitink; Chief Executive and Founder, Mycotex by NEFFA: Our core business is fashion and textile innovation, with sustainability being a big part of that. We focus on creating the most innovative and sustainable supply chain. We consider this to be a process in which you try to become more and more sustainable. That is why we create a manufacturing method that is flexible and adaptable to constant change—so that over time, and based on the latest research, we can improve our supply chain.

We are setting up a full supply chain in Europe. That way we know exactly where our materials are coming from, making it easy to be transparent towards our customers. It is also shorter, since we eliminate the need for weaving, cutting, and sewing. In our supply chain, we go directly from a material to a 3D textile product. And that reduces the number of stakeholders extensively, while improving transparency.

Where to find them at Munich Fabric Start
  • Algaeing: Hall 5, Booth 14
  • Knitwear Lab: Hall 5, Booth 23
  • Mycotex by NEFFA: Hall 5, Booth 21
  • Meyers & Fügmann: Hall 5, Booth 22
  • Orta: Hall 7, Booth B 21
  • Sharabati Denim: Hall 6, Booth A 01
  • Studio Sarmite: Hall 5, Booth 24
The 'Sustainable Innovations' area at Munich Fabric Start, curated by Simon Angel, is the platform for exciting, emerging designers who create extraordinary material developments and rethink the textile world—with these insights you are always one step ahead of the market.
Platform for the Emerging The 'Sustainable Innovations' area at Munich Fabric Start, curated by Simon Angel, is the platform for exciting, emerging designers who create extraordinary material developments and rethink the textile world—with these insights you are always one step ahead of the market. Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions

Neslihan Sebla Önder; Sustainability Chief, Orta: We have been heavily focusing on certification, audits and third-party tests to move ourselves away from greenwashing. We market what we believe in and what we can prove with science-based numbers and calculations. We, of course, have been following the new legislations and regulations to come. But until the standards and guidelines are set, we need to rely on certifications, especially to ensure our suppliers are operating in line with our sustainability vision and goals.

Sarmite Polakova; Owner, Studio Sarmite: We are transparent about sourcing our recycled fibres, about the lack of information regarding the content of the fibres and their origins. When it comes to lifecycle assessments, we also are not able to calculate those by formula due to the variety of post-production fibres. Instead, we try to create a new language to speak about the facts we know about.

Renana Krebs; Chief Executive Officer, Algaeing: We are driven by the belief in creating a largescale positive impact. Our patented innovations are designed to seamlessly integrate with existing production machinery, eliminating the need for special equipment and fast-tracking the adoption of sustainable practices across the industry and therefore becoming a part of the solution, not the problem. We believe everyone should be part of the change towards a healthier, cleaner future, which is why we work with both large and small manufacturers to transition into an Algaeing future.

By leveraging algae's potential, we are paving the way for a more sustainable and healthier life for everyone on the planet. Our approach harnesses the incredible power of algae, offering a natural alternative to the widespread use of toxins and chemicals in the textile supply chain. Our innovative solutions enable the production of biodegradable and zero-waste products, introducing an entirely new category of sustainable alternatives. We take pride in providing toxic-free inks, dyes, and other eco-friendly materials that redefine industry standards.

Greenwashing has become a pressing issue in today's landscape, driven by the growing demand for sustainability and the need for transparency. As awareness about the unethical practices in the textiles industry and the importance of ethically sourced materials increases, some brands, despite being major contributors to the problem, attempt to position themselves as champions of climate change to maintain relevance and growth.

However, the world quickly caught on to this deception. Now, organisations and individuals are left grappling with discerning what is genuine and what is merely a facade. This is precisely why companies must prioritise transparency when communicating with their audience.

Transparency has been a fundamental value for us since day one. We firmly believe that without our audience understanding the intricacies of our product creation process, they cannot fully grasp the impact we strive to make. Embracing transparency may present challenges along the way, but it is an opportunity for us to excel in our field and inspire others to adopt a similar business model.

By leading with transparency and showcasing various aspects of our process, we aim to create a movement where other brands and companies align with our values. Ultimately, we believe that being open and authentic about our intentions as a business and brand is not only essential but also sets a new standard of integrity in the industry.

 

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  • Dated posted 14 July 2023
  • Last modified 14 July 2023