Caught Between Wars and Laws, Industry Plans Ahead

There's a flurry of new European laws and regulations on the anvil, and different directives are being gradually unveiled. This would affect all players, but probably smaller ones more.

One such outfit is Knitwear Lab, which operates from Almere in the Netherlands as well as Istanbul in Türkiye. Cherish Brouwer, Co-founder and Creative Director, has this to say: "In our new Virtual Knitting, we will implement the new EU regulations. For now, it seems our customers are not too aware yet of the new regulations coming, but we want to help implement better rules for energy and water use and help develop more sustainable products with our new virtual sample method."

Not everyone is based in Europe, of course. Material innovator Algaeing is from Tel Aviv, Israel. Chief Executive Renana Krebs is clear about how it’s going to work. She starts on a personal note: "Working in the fashion and textiles industry for years, I saw the devastating impact it has on the environment and each and every one of us. So, we founded Algaeing. Algaeing formulates planet-positive, scalable solutions all in a fully closed system, taking the lead towards a healthier future. Our innovative team creates patented and award-winning formulations for sustainably dyeing and manufacturing fibres. The formulations can be customised for specific needs in a 100% closed loop system and used with existing machinery, enabling a faster adoption across supply chains and mainstream acceptance."

Krebs continues: "The new European laws are definitely a sign that we as a society are heading in the right direction. We are aware that it might take some time to get to a more balanced chapter in the textiles industry, but we are thrilled to know that we are indeed moving forward. Being a part of the change, a part of the solution, feels like we are playing our part in history.

"Undoubtedly, these are critical times for many industries, particularly the textiles sector, with increased demands for fairness and regulations from both governing bodies and the younger generations seeking accountability. We wholeheartedly support these demands.

"We are diligently committed to adhering to the new laws and regulations. We understand the significance of staying compliant and prioritising a clean, toxic-free approach. Our relentless dedication allows us to continue delivering the best possible products while meeting the highest standards. By doing so, we aim to contribute to the industry's transformation and pave the way for a more sustainable future."

With industry in flux, it makes sense to see what people are planning.

Reveals Önder: "We have been working on projects that would achieve efficient energy and material use. One example would be: Over recent years, Orta has been advancing on its standard called 'Golden Ratio', the perfect the perfect formula—in our case—for the optimum balance of recycled materials and durability even for the stretch fabrics without compromising from the performance, quality or look of its denim fabrics. These studies, with the strength of collaborative effort bore fruit and recently Orta became the first Com4recycling-ring licensee. As a future project, we are right now working on a water recycling system in our wastewater treatment facility. After completion, it will significantly reduce our freshwater consumption which really excites us for the future."

Hoitink takes an overarching view. She explains: "What you currently see is that the focus is on improving the different parts of the industry. These quick fixes are needed, but it will not be enough. We need to fix the real problem. What we need is a systemic change to really create impact. Our goal is to become the new manufacturing method next to cutting and sewing. We start by offering Mycotex, a mycelium-based material, in our New Fashion Factory (NEFFA). Once consolidated with the first manufacturers, we will offer new materials. This can be from our own developments as well as from external material partners. That way we can create more impact, and that is what we are looking for."

Materials are on Brouwer's mind too. She outlines: "Our Virtual Knitting creates new insights and knowledge on product development and product performances." Brouwer believes this method will revolutionise knitwear sampling: it will shorten the development time and improve it a lot in cooperation with knitwear professionals. "Our 3D knitwear methods will create better products with less impact on the environment and workforce. Of course, we promote single material products and really promote animal-friendly wool as one of the most durable and sustainable materials. We continue our research into new materials."

Working out of Berlin and Luxembourg, Sarah Meyers and Laura Fügmann have been taking it slow at Meyers & Fügmann. Their vision is to show how beautiful natural colours “ripen” and promote them as a real alternative to synthetic dyes, opening markets for less durable colours. While low lightfastness is often seen as a shortcoming, their Slow Patterns turns it into a quality and aims to appeal for the dignity and liveliness of natural colours as they fade over time.

Sarah and Laura contextualise this: "We want to question the lightfastness standards that were set by synthetic pigments made from petroleum. To live up to the high demand, we will extend the production of our naturally dyed blankets made from local wool in the next year. 

"For circularity reasons we are working on turning our Slow Patterns collection into a monomaterial, made completely from local wool. The obstacle lies in still finding a weaving mill that uses wool on a jacquard loom as a warp. Most factories replaced wool completely through acrylic or polyester fibres, since they are easier to handle in the warp and with lower costs. Moreover, we want to offer our expertise and experience in natural dyes and sampling to other companies, and are happy to find new collaborators/partners."

While new materials and material innovations do remain at the top of what's perceived as exciting, in today's world big companies need to play it big in recycling. That's what Egypt's Sharabati Denim is doing. Global Marketing Manager Dilek Erik lays it out: "Recycling is very important for us. We are the only denim company which has joined the Circular Textile Days and share our recycling visions. We have had our own recycling factory for over 25 years. Every day we collect 40 tonnes of waste, with 20 tonnes coming from our own denim factory. We also buy waste from other textile mills. We produce 55 tonnes of recycled yarn every day in our Recycle factory.

"Not only fibres, but we also recycle our industrial wastewater. We have built a new water treatment plant, to recycle as much water as possible. The daily capacity of the new water recycling system is 3,500 cu m and it will recycle 70% of the total water that we use during production."

The plans, for Krebs, are clear-cut and well-defined. She remarks: "The Algaeing vision is to eventually create something much greater than just a product—we strive to establish an innovation platform and a community that will redefine how we approach textile procurement and collaboration. Our strongest quality is being able to offer a fully ready-to-use product, enabling manufacturers to focus on their specific needs without worrying about the previous stages in the production chain." By delivering a finished product, the company aims to showcase to the industry that a better way of creating dyes, inks and fiber is not just a concept but a tangible reality. It, as she underlines, serves as a perfect representation of the future of the textile industry and the possibilities it holds.

As a part of that approach, Algaeing offers customisable formulations tailored to meet the specific requirements of each manufacturer. Whether it's dyes, ink, or fibre range, the formulations can be adjusted accordingly. "Through our unique vertical farming method utilising algae, we not only achieve zero waste but also ensure consistent formulations. This means that season after season, you can expect the same colours and properties, maintaining reliability and quality in your products."

At Algaeing, research and development lie at the core. Krebs says, "We are dedicated to continuously evolving and adapting to the dynamic and ever-changing world, considering both conscious and professional aspects. Collaborating with top industry professionals, we constantly strive to discover the most environmentally friendly techniques and formulations for our products. We are excited about the future of Algaeing and the ongoing learning opportunities it brings."

It is that sense of excitement that promises to be palpable at the ensuing Munich Fabric Start AW 24/25.