Making a Showcase at an Event

Then there are the big denim players from Türkiye who need no introduction.

Orta is one of the forever partners of Bluezone, participating pretty much at every show regularly for a long time. This time, the company will be showcasing the new OrtaNow collection, a future-forward reimagination of its breakthrough fabrics modernised with eco-conscious performance.

Sebla Önder, the Sustainability Chief of Orta, describes OrtaNow as a “future-spective” interpretation of modern heritage, like the marble ring from early nineties Japanese influence; the famed crosshatch; the first generation of multi-count fabrics; the transcending techno shine flex; the denim feat of 100% bi-stretch; and many more legendary fabrics that represent the stories of people’s lives then and now.

Önder elaborates, “OrtaNow also holds new generation icons including: high performance Tencel lyocell in the weft to supreme softness and recovery—perfect for the coveted legging and slim style denim look, unisex stretch with clear twill line, and raw look performance stretch-engineered with ultimate fibre blends ensuring longevity for use and performance. Marrying recycled materials with durability of stretch, Orta replicates those sought after salt ‘n pepper marble washes with a smooth, Japanese artisan-like optic.

“As a continuum of our regenerative handprint mission we also have a bioengineered solution which we will be showcasing in the show: We have partnered with Nature Coatings to introduce the world’s first carbon-negative black pigment that is petrol-free and 100% wood-waste derived. ORTA applies BioBlack TX for fabric coating and, as an industry first application, warp dyeing, offering a Bluesky color solution that sees wood waste transformed into clean colour black.”

Sharabati Denim would be coming from Egypt with three main concepts for the season, informs Global Marketing Manager Dilek Erik.

The 50/50 concept is built on the idea that hybrid working has re-written the dress code rules. Or rather, there is only one rule: comfort is style. The workplace can be the desk or the sofa. “So, our denims perform for both—be it with natural fibres or the latest technological innovation. It is abpit the maximum comfort in garments that look and feel stylish in any content.”

The second is Kaleidoscope—a burst of colour to beat the blues. “It’s time to add a splash of colour, unleash your inner child, and let your dreams run free. Patterns pull together in a riot of brightness, and new textures lend a different twist.” The third is Blacklight. “Black is the new black. Our overdye technique gives the fabric a range of colours on both sides for extra versatility.  Indigo coating lends denim deep dark hues and creates a denim look when applied to gabardine. New Ink23 is our darkest pure indigo. It gives breathtaking intensity or can fade for an appealing vintage feel,” she says.

This is where it gets interesting.

Studio Sarmite and Roua Atelier would be bringing the many lives of textiles and colours, by cutting across boundaries (the former is based in Frankfurt, Germany and the latter in Amsterdam, Netherlands).  Says Sarmite Polakova, “We will show the latest innovation of Pre-Loved bio-textile and a collaboration with natural dye expert Roua Atelier. It has been an 18-month partnership where both partners developed a ground breaking dyeing method for post-consumer textile waste”

Studio Sarmite together with Roua Atelier would be presenting a dyeing process for mixed blend unrecyclable textile fibres, otherwise sent to landfills. Pre-Loved is a new bio-textile concept made from inferior textile fibres. Developed by Studio Sarmite, Pre-Loved skips the need for traditional textile recycling entirely. Instead, it lays emphasis on recyclability: The leather-like material can be dissolved at the end of its life and the textile fibres repurposed for the next production cycles.

In order to remove the existing stigma of recycled textiles, Studio Sarmite has collaborated with Roua Atelier to develop a pioneering dyeing method for mixed blends with help of natural pigments. “The dyeing is integrated within the making of the bio-textile, thus leading to a unique design language. The dyeing becomes the designing, which gives room for surprising patterns and playfulness.”

Both designers (Polakova and Roua Al-Halabi) learnt that the colour could be extracted during the recycling process of the bio-textile and altered for the next lifecycle without adding additional resources.

The duo will also display their expertise in sustainable natural dye materials, showcasing a diverse range of ideas and materials. Through the utilisation of natural dye plants, inks, various fibres and organic materials, they have crafted an impressive exhibition. Visitors will see for themselves the creation of a breathtaking, vibrant wall constructed entirely from these innovative textile materials. Roua and Sarmite also intend to actively engage with visitors, discussing their experiments and highlighting the significance of their bio-textile materials.

Then, there’s the other twosome: Meyers & Fügmann, a studio for textile, product design and research, based in Berlin and Luxembourg. Sarah Meyers and Laura Fügmann are advocates for slow consumerism, and believe that the objects we use in our daily lives should consider the geographical origins of materials, the social value of production processes and the environmental impact of a products’ lifecycle.

Say Sarah and Laura: “We are especially showcasing our light-responsive textile collection Slow Patterns and our naturally coloured blankets Couleurs-Sur-Sure made from local wool. Additionally, we want to emphasise the process-based nature of our studio: We are hands-on designers that love to experiment with materials and colours and like to be surprised by the process. We are open to collaborate and are looking for intriguing partners.”

Playing small, but thinking big is Knitwear Lab from the Netherlands. It develops smart technological applications for knitwear. The knitwear specialists combine material research with the latest knitwear technologies. At the Almere lab in the Netherlands, the team of programmers and designers develop prototypes and run small-scale productions. The production lab in Istanbul, Türkiye specialises in producing high-end knitwear in small quantities.

Says Cherish Brouwer, Co-founder and Creative Director: “We are at heart an innovative company and develop new knits and materials every month. So, it is not too hard for us to show new knitwear. This time, we will showcase our new virtual sample method which is unique for industrial knitwear. With this method, we shorten the lead time of sampling and enhance the creative opportunities with our development teams.”

For many, there would be these obvious questions: How can you offer something new every single time? How much pressure is there to showcase something new all the time? Indeed.

Says Krebs: “As active participants in this ever-changing world, we understand the importance of adaptability and innovation. Regularly engaging in various events and exhibitions worldwide allows our company to embrace new ideas, put them into action, and continually push the boundaries of our creations.

“What truly excites us about these events is the opportunity to learn and discover fresh perspectives that may have eluded us. While it can be a challenge to keep up with the ever-increasing pace and demands, we willingly embrace it as a means to become the best version of our company—a beacon of awareness, sustainability, and innovation. Participating in these events is not just about showcasing something new each time; it's about fostering an environment of growth, exploration, and staying at the forefront of positive change. We strive to be the driving force behind innovation, constantly evolving and inspiring others within our industry.”

Sharabati is always ready for the draw. Says Erik: “We have a product development team to work on seasonal collections all year long. They develop innovative and fashionable articles each season and we are preparing two main collections every year. We also prepare some capsule collections between the main seasons like our new Recycle collection. We have our own Recycle yarn factory and we develop many articles with different Recycle content (including 100% Recycle fabric).”

Sarah and Laura do not participate in these events regularly, “but we are very excited to step out of the studio and meet, exchange and get feedback. In our case, the challenge lies in catching the attention of the visitor for more than a glance, because all projects have underlying concepts that we want to talk about. Showing colour and process helps to attract attention.”

It has been some years that Mycotex by NEFFA presented at Munich Fabric Start. Aniela Hoitink, Chief Executive and Founder, says: “In this period, we have been working hard on re-developing our material and setting up the manufacturing method with our partners. There is always pressure to showcase something new, that is not necessarily a bad thing, as this can also be a driver on innovation.” Mycotex creates custom-made, fungi-based clothing without the need to cut and sew. And as an extra perk, the garments can be composted at end-of-life. NEFFA, or the New Fashion Factory, is the groundbreaking automated manufacturing method allowing for custom products made from biomaterials. Hoitink has received various grants, honours and awards—including the H&M Global Change Award in 2018 and the EU Social Innovation Competition Impact prize in 2021.

Eyand too does not regularly participate in trade events. Puignou underlines: "In fact, it is now that we want to increase the visibility of the company because we have obtained an extensive range of natural colours, all of them sourced from mineral or plant origins, with excellent colorfastness. We aim for Eyand to become the leading reference in natural dyeing."

He continues, "We do not want to put pressure on ourselves to offer something new to the market every time. We are constantly researching and developing out of ecological awareness. Due to the real environmental issues we are facing, we are committed to sustainability, and that's why we continue to seek solutions to meet the market's needs and our customers’ requirements."