Jean was at a preloved shop looking for a peasant skirt. “I don’t want the knifepleats. And this shop here was my last bet, and here you go,” she squealed as she un-hangered a paisley motif and floral 10-panelled skirt.
What are the motivations that could deter or prompt individuals to go for pre-loved clothing or accessories?
As the world of fashion continues to be slammed for its colossal carbon footprint, one way identified to check the onslaught is secondhand shopping. The used clothing market has become a multi-billion-dollar industry globally, with further growth forecast.
A global phenomenon on the rise, the drivers for secondhand shopping have been the focus of consumer and retail studies for long and a study aims to address how marketers and retailers can encourage more consumers to visit secondhand stores through a greater understanding of consumer orientations. As sustainability and alternative shopping methods become more popular, the drivers of this type of purchasing behaviour are of increasing interest to practitioners and scholars.
Although there are “still gaps in knowledge in terms of the motivations, and specifically the consumer orientations, of secondhand shoppers”, a study has identified six types of consumer orientation that can be considered as a reflection, or an expression, of motivations, in that they drive the behaviour of consumers.
The study, ‘Consumer orientations of secondhand fashion shoppers: The role of shopping frequency and store type’ by Freya Evans, Louise Grimmer andd Martin Grimmer pinpoints the following attributes—frugality, ecological-consciousness, materialism, nostalgia-proneness, style-consciousness and fashion-consciousness.
Let’s elaborate some:
Frugality, as the attribute suggests, “involves being restrained in acquiring products and services and using goods with care to achieve long term goals such as saving money or conserving resources and this is often linked with secondhand shopping behaviour.” As used goods at thrift stores are often substantially cheaper than new items, this avenue of shopping is appropriate for frugal consumers. So when Samantha Jones, a primary school teacher says she is into secondhand shopping for “the fun of it and of course I get to pick some good stuff I otherwise cannot afford to buy. It helps that people are now talking more about ‘saving the planet’, I am happy I am indirectly perhaps helping the cause”.
Ecological-consciousness in the context of this study refers to an “awareness of the impact of clothing manufacture and consumption on the environment. Consumers’ level of awareness of the consequences of their shopping choices may increase their likelihood of participating in sustainable purchasing behaviour. Those who identify with being ‘green’ or environmentally-conscious may be more concerned with the environmental impact of their purchasing and reducing waste.
Materialism refers to the importance consumers assign to the acquisition and ownership of material goods to achieve major life goals or desired states. Shoppers who are more materialistic often obtain pleasure from buying clothes and have higher levels of fashion involvement or fashion-consciousness; but this finding is not expected from those who shop online or by consignment. According to the study, it is supposed that frequent secondhand shoppers have lower materialism scores than non- or infrequent shoppers; “thrift store shoppers will have lower materialism scores than (a) online secondhand platform shoppers, (b) consignment store/market shoppers and (c) non-shoppers.”
Nostalgia-proneness: Nostalgia is the longing or fondness for the past, and possessions associated with earlier times. People who are prone to nostalgia have a preference towards objects that were previously popular or fashionable and have a desire to shop for items evoking memories or feelings from earlier and/or better times. Nostalgia and fashion involvement can be strong drivers for those who favour shopping for vintage or secondhand clothing. Nostalgia proneness is said to be high for consignment/market and online shoppers. Little wonder then that when Anna, shop floor manager at the local department store, went shopping for her bridal gown with her frail mother, they were looking for “something old world. My mom’s veil and gown could not be restored. One tug and it could rip. I am looking for something like that”.
Style-consciousness refers to the desire to express a unique personality through clothing. Style-conscious consumers shop for goods which will satisfy their own personal style or values. Style-conscious shoppers often keep their clothes longer and therefore look for durable, high-quality items, much like Christine, a business woman who has just launched her startup. “I like clothes that can take me from a meeting to the pub. I invest in my clothing and don’t mind pre-loved clothes only because I can pick some unique and good quality pieces.” Thrift stores are perceived by these consumers as stocking clothing that is of lesser quality compared with other secondhand channels like consignment stores, markets or online platforms. The study quotes Sproles and Kendall (1986): “ consumers with high levels of fashion-consciousness enjoy the excitement and pleasure of seeking out new items and keeping up with current fashion trends. This is not the same as style-consciousness which is about long-term individual identity”.
Fashion-consciousness: Higher levels of fashion-consciousness are associated with infrequent secondhand shopping behaviour versus more frequent and non-shoppers. In the current study, infrequent secondhand shoppers still demonstrated fashion-consciousness. This does align with the fashion motive that proposes that there is an element of fun and fashionability involved with the secondhand shopping experience. The rise in popularity of secondhand shopping and increase in different store types may have resulted in consumers with fashion orientation becoming more aware and interested in this purchasing option. It may also be the case that infrequent shoppers, versus more frequent shoppers and non-shoppers, are ‘dabblers’, showing an interest in, but not a dedication to, secondhand shopping. Higher levels of fashion-consciousness are also associated with shopping at consignment stores/markets and online platforms, compared with thrift stores or those who do not shop secondhand.
So whether it is Samantha* or Anna* or Christine*, secondhand shopping in indeed here to stay and grow.
*Samantha, Anna, Christine were interviewed outside of this study.
