Discussions about traceability are mostly confined to brands, trade associations, activist groups, etc. But at the end of the day, for traceability programmes to actually change things, it would have to be end-consumers who should stridently demand traceability tags. What is your understanding? How concerned are end-customers about traceability tags, say in the countries that you operate it?
Of course, if the end consumer demanded traceability tags, brands would have to comply or risk losing business, but I think the reality is far more nuanced than that. Traceability represents one aspect of sustainable and responsible shopping, and clothes just one aspect of a consumer’s daily necessities. And so to place the responsibility for traceability at the hands of consumers is asking quite a lot—particularly given the various solutions out there and complexity. The industry is awash with greenwashing and often consumers aren’t exactly sure what to ask for.
Instead, we need to foster a collaborative approach, one that engages all members of the value chain — from the brands to trade associations, activist groups, factories and consumers. We’re finding the latter are becoming more knowledgeable and inquisitive around their purchasing decisions and putting extra pressure on brands, but the solution needs to come from brands and regulation if we’re to see any real change. Unfortunately, the conscious consumer only represents a small percentage of the total. There are still a lot of people relying on fast fashion.
The recent Changing Markets Foundation report on certifications in the textiles-apparel industry have dented the credibility of the entire certification process. Where does Oritain stand?
Certifications are a tricky issue. On the one hand they help to raise awareness and encourage consumers to look at the packaging or labels to see exactly what it is they’re buying. On the other, they can act as a shortcut to consumers believing a brand has done their due diligence and that a product is sustainable, when often this isn’t the case.
Like anything external to the product—packaging, barcodes, data, serial numbers—there’s no guarantee of proof that the underlying product actually is what it says it is unless the product is being tested. That’s one of the main premises behind our scientific traceability. We test the product itself to verify its origin. If you know where something comes from you can then understand how it was made and under what social, environmental and animal conditions. We see certification as a crucial tool but it needs to be validated by physical testing to ensure the integrity of the certificate, so for Origin related claims that are certified we can validate and authenticate these claims by testing the product to ensure the certification is monitored effectively.
The science behind Oritain is clearly laid out on your website. Do you think 'fashion forensics' is the future of traceability in the industry? How much can things change, and how fast? How will brands / manufacturers keep pace of what's happening on the traceability front?
The future of traceability has to lie in product testing. Our reliance so far on data, packaging, and paper trails has resulted in the current level of greenwashing we’re seeing in the industry. This isn’t necessarily because of brands trying to pull the wool over the eyes of consumers, but because of the inadequacy of those methods.
For things to change quickly (and permanently), we need accountability. And for that you need robust, verified, scientific proof. Verifying the origin of our products and raw materials should be the foundation of any sustainable or responsible practice. Once brands know this, they can then confidently look at the rest of their supply chain.
But then, has the practice of introducing traceability mechanisms caught up with the industry at all? So far, it's only a handful of big players who have made an announcement, or it's the cutting-edge small time businesses/startups that have traceability in their DNA?
There are a great number of brands working away in the background to improve the traceability and sustainability of their operations, but who don’t want to communicate this process publicly for fear of greenwashing accusations. We’re working with these brands but we aren’t able to disclose for this very reason. The good news is that brands are trying. They might not be in a position to share these efforts publicly, but the intent is definitely there—whether or not they are a big player or a cutting-edge start up.
How expensive is this? Is it affordable for small and medium businesses? Or will they get edged out, because it's an expensive proposition?
We see ourselves as a partner with the brands we work with, not as a transactional service, and so it’s in all our interests to find a solution that is commercially viable but that doesn’t fall short on our commitment to trust and integrity. We work with our partners to find the high risk areas of their supply chain and design a specific solution around their needs.
The cost to damage of reputation or legal ramifications if found guilty of adulteration/mislabelling is high, but our solution isn’t purely a risk mitigation strategy. Many brands are using it as a marketing tool and seeing returns on products due to increased consumer trust that negate the cost of our service. In both these cases we add significant value and it is that value that is key to understanding cost, and we are proud that we have a retention rate of 97%, which demonstrates our clients are getting that value
