Fashion’s sustainability targets are running headlong into the realities of retail economics. Inventory exposure, markdown cycles, returns, and customer service policies can either support longer product use or undermine it. The outcome is rarely driven by a single initiative. It depends on how retail is organised, what teams are measured on, and where investment is prioritised. Sustainability, in this context, becomes an operating discipline rather than a communications exercise, with direct consequences for cost control, value retention, and reporting credibility.
For many fashion businesses, this shift is becoming impossible to ignore. Overproduction remains structurally embedded in seasonal buying models, while return volumes continue to erode both margins and environmental gains. Retail operations are where these pressures converge. Decisions taken at store and channel level determine whether garments are repaired, resold, written down, or discarded, and whether sustainability commitments translate into measurable outcomes or remain aspirational statements.
A recent European study brings this operational role of retail into sharper focus. Conducted by Tommaso Elli at Politecnico di Milano, the research combines a systematic literature review with a qualitative focus group involving six experts from fashion management, retail technology, sustainability communication, and social enterprise. The study examines service-based retail practices across the European context, with particular attention to how retail services influence product longevity, transparency, and consumer behaviour.
Crucially, the study — Challenges and Responsibilities in Service-Based Sustainable Fashion Retail: Insights and Guidelines from a Qualitative Study — reframes retail as more than a point of sale. Stores and omnichannel systems function as interfaces between supply chains and consumers, shaping trust, accountability, and expectations. How clearly products are explained, how transparently their origins are presented, and how consistently services are delivered all affect whether sustainability claims withstand scrutiny from regulators, partners, and increasingly informed customers.
The findings also underline the organisational implications of this shift. Service-based sustainability places new demands on retail teams, from skills and incentives to data use and operational ownership. Technology plays a supporting role, enabling better forecasting, lower return rates, and improved visibility, but it does not replace the need for coherent service design and governance. In this view, sustainable retail is less about isolated initiatives and more about aligning everyday operations with long-term environmental and social objectives.