An industry-backed white paper has urged the UK Government to implement variable Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fees immediately to drive sustainability and establish a circular economy in the country’s fashion and textiles sector.
- The proposed variable EPR fees would ensure that producers bear the cost of their products’ end-of-life treatment, rather than passing this burden onto communities and the environment.
- An EPR framework is needed for the industry to increase recycling and the reuse of products and materials, whilst reducing unnecessary consumption and the harmful impacts of production.
THE REPORT: Unveiled at the UKFT Sustainability Conference 2024 in London, the EPR Sandbox, presents a once-in-a-generation opportunity for impactful change, and emphasises the need for immediate government action to enable a more circular economy and create a variable EPR textile scheme that works for all.
- Developed by QSA Partners, with support from UKFT, British Fashion Council, the British Retail Consortium and several luxury, fashion and retail brands, the white paper lays out a clear call to government, and highlights a once in a generation opportunity to incentivise sustainability and secure funding for the development of high-impact circular infrastructure, jobs and skills in the UK.
- This ambitious initiative received backing from UKRI, and included a Steering Committee chaired by UKFT with members from the British Fashion Council, the British Retail Consortium, global luxury brand Burberry, Marks & Spencer, New Look, John Smedley, a global sportswear brand and a leading online resale platform.
THE CONTEXT: The fashion and textiles industry is a significant player in both economic and environmental landscapes.
- The industry contributes approximately £62 billion to the UK economy, highlighting its importance in terms of employment, revenue, and cultural impact. However, the environmental cost of the industry is substantial as well.
- The NGO WRAP estimated in 2019, that 336,000 tonnes of clothing is sent to UK landfills annually. These figures underline the urgent need for sustainable practices and innovations within the industry.
- The UK cannot continue to consume without care. Brands and retailers have a vast influential reach that impacts not only buyer behaviours but can lessen our collective effects around the globe.
- The current fashion and textiles waste management system is global and intricate, making it unrealistic for producers to manage their products’ end-of-life treatment directly.
- Variable EPR fees would channel funds to local operators who can process these products responsibly, preventing environmental harm.
WHAT THEY SAID:
At Burberry, we are working to support a more circular economy through our aftercare services and circular business models. These services help our customers keep their luxury products in use for longer. By contributing to this industry-led EPR Sandbox project, our aim is to positively influence the future of the fashion industry in adopting more circular practices.
— Sumit Dargad
VP (Quality and Engineering), Supply Chain
Burberry
As a 240-year-old 8th generation family-owned business, we are committed to manufacturing sustainably. Traceability and raw material partnerships form a huge part of our sustainability journey. The EPR Sandbox project has enabled a steering committee from various sectors within the textile industry to create a process for EPR that is fair to all involved. Everyone needs to become aware of the EPR process and help us shape the future for product end of life and beyond. Incremental gains for reducing our CO2 emissions create huge benefits for the planet.
— Tim Clark
Technical Director
John Smedley
At M&S, we ensure our clothes are made well and made to last and, through Plan A, we’ve been taking action for over 15 years to help customers give their clothes Another life. In 2008, we were the first UK retailer to launch a clothes recycling scheme, and this year we launched a clothing repair service. We are proud to be a part of the Fashion Extended Producer Responsibility Sandbox project and support steps to scale textile recycling in the UK but want to work with Government so that it drives tangible change. A successful EPR scheme must incentivise good business, encourage circular design and invest in UK recycling infrastructure if we are to achieve positive change.
— Katharine Beacham
Head of Sustainability (Clothing & Home)
Marks & Spencer
