Close to half a million tonnes of low-value, post-consumer textiles are readily available for fibre-to-fibre recycling in six European countries.
- A report from the Sorting for Circularity Europe project, released Tuesday, says that as much as 74%—a total of 494,000 tonnes—of low-value, post-consumer textiles is readily available for fibre-to-fibre recycling in Belgium, Germany, the Netherlands, Poland, Spain, and the United Kingdom.
- This represents the potential to generate an additional €74 million per year in value by reintroducing sorted and recycled textiles back into the value chain.
- The findings were released by the Fashion for Good initiative, in collaboration with the Circle Economy impact organisation, following the conclusion of the 16-month Sorting for Circularity Europe project.
The main findings: Using near infrared (NIR) technology to determine garment composition, traditionally a task performed manually, the project analysed a total of 21 tonnes of post-consumer garments.
- On-the-ground examinations were performed over two time periods, autumn/winter 2021 and spring/summer 2022, to account for seasonal changes in the types of garments entering sorting facilities.
- Cotton was found to be the dominant fibre (42%), followed by a large presence of material blends (32%), almost half of which consisted of polycottons (12%).
- Based on three characteristics, material composition, presence of disruptors, such as zippers and buttons, and colour, 21% of the materials analysed were deemed suitable as feedstock for mechanical recycling, while 53% were suitable for chemical recycling.
- This presents a significant opportunity for circularity as currently only 2% of post-consumer textiles are diverted to fibre-to-fibre recycling.
[The study identifies low-value textiles as both low-value and non-rewearable textile waste which are items that cannot be reused in their original form, enters end of use destinations such as downcycling (wipers, automotive industry) or incinerated, or have reached market saturation in the global second-hand textile trade.]
More to the report: In addition to the report, two further industry resources, developed by Circle Economy, have been made available.
- The Recycler’s Database, a database mapping textile recycler’s capabilities, highlights crucial gaps between the sorting and recycling industries.
- An open source Sorters Handbook will guide the sorting industry – encouraging and supporting further analyses.
- Additionally, two open digital platforms to match textile waste from sorters with recyclers have been identified as critical tools to further enable the connections needed to drive greater circularity in the years to come.
- Following an assessment of suitable digital platforms within and outside of the textile industry, Reverse Resources has 39 active recyclers and 32 active waste handlers/sorters on their platform.
- Refashion Recycle has 103 recyclers and 66 sorters onboarded on to their platform. This represents a large portion of the European circularity industry.
Even more resources: Based on findings and knowledge gathered from the project, Fashion for Good and Circle Economy recommend the following actions in the report:
- For all collectors, sorters, and recyclers: Use the Sorters Handbook and the Sorting for Circularity Europe Report as guidance to conduct further trials and continue to build an understanding of fibre composition, sorting and recycling processes; update and utilise the Recyclers Database to build knowledge about mechanical and chemical recycling destinations.
- For brands and manufacturers: Further commit to adopting circular design practices and incorporating recycled fibres into product portfolios as mandated by the upcoming Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation in the European Union.
- For policymakers: Consider the Sorting for Circularity Europe Report and other relevant studies when developing toolkits, frameworks and legislation such as: the harmonised Extended Producer Responsibility framework, the Digital Product Passports pathway in textiles, and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.
