Spinning Sustainability: How Arecanut Husk Can Become Textile Gold

For Georgy Sunny, an assistant professor at the premier National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), the journey started as a kid in the family’s arecanut agricultural land at Balal in Kerala. “During my study breaks, I would help my father lay out arecanuts on our terrace for sun-drying, which is necessary before removing the nuts. One day, while sitting amidst these drying fruits, I noticed the dry arecanut shells opening naturally, revealing fibres within.”

This serendipitous observation during his B.Tech (Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore) in Fashion Technology sparked the question: Could these fibres, typically discarded as waste, be transformed into valuable yarn?

The journey from concept to research began in 2012, as he began conducting initial experiments with arecanut fibre extraction. The preliminary research was supported by his institute’s laboratory facilities. The turning point came during his “PhD part time studies at VIT Chennai, where I also received institutional support for comprehensive research from NIFT, Kannur. I developed the fabric with the help of weavers there at the Kalliasseri Weavers Co Operative Society” which was close to his NIFT campus. 

The research was primarily conducted using raw materials sourced from his family farm in the Kasargod district. “The most significant investment was time”, says he, adding that it took nearly a decade of research from initial concept to successful product development.

The project's sustainability focus is reflected not just in the material choice but also in the research approach, utilising existing infrastructure and local resources effectively.

The research was not just about creating new textile materials, it was about finding sustainable solutions to agricultural waste while supporting farming communities. Each arecanut-based textile product now tells a story of sustainability, innovation, and rural empowerment.

Detailing the journey from initial concept to product implementation, he talks about how research progressed systematically through fibre extraction optimisation (2019-2020), yarn development (2020-2022), and fabric development (2022-2024). While current products like upholstery fabrics, curtains, and scarves demonstrate success in sustainable textile development, particularly with 5s count yarn for home furnishings, “I continue researching improvements in fibre fineness and processing methods for wider clothing applications”.

I ask if this work needs a patent, and he answers in the affirmative, elaborating: “Yes. The uniqueness of converting agricultural waste into value-added textile products, combined with the specific technical parameters developed through this research, make it eligible for intellectual property protection. It involves novel processes in:

• Optimisation of retting parameters for fibre extraction;
• Development of specific blend ratios for textile applications;
• Unique fabric construction methods using arecanut yarn.

The primary challenges encountered in developing arecanut fibre textiles included achieving consistent fibre quality through the retting process and optimising yarn parameters for different applications. Technical limitations in achieving finer yarn counts and the necessity for blending with cotton remain ongoing challenges. While the research ensured successful development of products for home furnishing applications, commercial rollout faces hurdles in process automation for large-scale production, supply chain optimisation, and market awareness.

A question that always niggles when reading about “sustainable material” is how viable these biomaterials are, especially with reference to their sustainability and biodegradability more so because they undergo several processes. Georgy addresses the doubts: In the case of arecanut fibre textiles, “our research demonstrates strong sustainability credentials through minimal processing. The primary treatment involves only water retting — a natural, chemical-free process. While blending with cotton is necessary for textile formation, the high percentage of arecanut fibre maintains the material's eco-friendly nature.

“The biodegradability has been verified through our research as the fibre retains its natural decomposition properties even after processing. The arecanut component, being cellulosic and minimally treated, maintains its biodegradability while the cotton blend portion follows established natural fibre degradation patterns.”

Unlike many biomaterials that require extensive chemical processing, the NIFT professor’s approach emphasises mechanical processing and natural treatments, ensuring that the final product remains environmentally responsible throughout its lifecycle. The process actually helps reduce agricultural waste by transforming what would typically be burned or discarded into valuable textiles.

The economic viability is supported by:

• Low-cost raw material (agricultural waste)
• Minimal processing requirements
• Value addition to existing crop production
• Multiple end-use applications

Question him about durability, and says he with quiet confidence: “Test of time is a better yardstick than lab condition.”

Lab tests show strong mechanical properties (abrasion resistance: 4375 cycles). Prototype products have been in use for 1+ year showing good durability. Real-world testing with upholstery and curtain applications continues.

Processing and Resource Usage:

• Water retting (4L water/250g husk)
• Manual fibre extraction
• Sun drying
• Blending with cotton (75:25)
• Yarn spinning
• Weaving
• Energy usage minimal — mainly in spinning and weaving.
• No chemicals used in fibre extraction.
• Water is reusable after treatment.

How does the arecanut fibre blend with other yarns, I enquire. He elaborates: “As mentioned above, arecanut fibre offers strong sustainability credentials as it utilises agricultural waste that is typically discarded or burned. The fibre extraction uses an environmentally friendly water retting process without chemicals, and the entire process supports rural farming communities by creating additional value from existing crops.

However, pure arecanut fibre cannot be woven alone due to its coarse nature and limited strength. “Our research established that blending with cotton is essential, with a 75:25 (arecanut:cotton) ratio proving optimal. This blend combines sustainability with practical textile requirements, achieving:

• Adequate strength for textile processing
• Improved spinning capability
• Better fabric formation
• Enhanced comfort properties

The blending necessity actually supports a circular textile approach, where sustainable arecanut fibre complements conventional cotton, reducing overall environmental impact while maintaining commercial viability.

Answers to some more questions:

How many kilograms of areca nut husk is required to say, weave a metre of cloth?

Based on the research findings, the conversion ratio from raw arecanut husk to finished fabric is:

250g dried arecanut husk yields approximately:

• 43-46g of extracted fibre after retting
• In 75:25 (arecanut:cotton) blend ratio, this produces about 60g of blended yarn
• One meter of fabric (44 inches width) requires about 180-200g of blended yarn

Therefore, to produce one meter of fabric, approximately 750-800g of dried arecanut husk is required. This calculation accounts for:

• Fibre extraction efficiency
• Blending ratios
• Fabric construction parameters (EPI: 42, PPI: 32)

What is the sourcing, cleaning method?

Raw arecanut husks are sourced from farms after nut removal. Cleaning involves natural water retting process: 250g husks immersed in 4L water at room temperature (27°C) for two days, followed by manual fibre extraction and sun-drying for 4-6 days.

How is the supply chain expected to work?

Currently it is on an experimental-scale with direct sourcing from local farms in Balal. The proposed commercial supply chain includes:

• Collection centres in farming regions
• Centralised processing units
• Quality control systems
• Distribution networks for yarn and fabric production

Initial pilot programmes are planned in Kerala and Karnataka, where arecanut cultivation is highest.

Areca nut is grown and consumed in several states across the country. Any steps being taken to collaborate in some way perhaps by setting up a common pool or even educate or train people in those states? 

My vision includes establishing a collaborative network across major arecanut-growing regions, particularly in Karnataka, Kerala, and the Northeast states. The plan involves:

• Creating training centres to teach fibre extraction and processing techniques to local communities
• Establishing a cooperative system for collecting and processing arecanut husks, creating additional income for farmers
• Developing partnerships with textile institutions and industries for knowledge sharing and product development
• Collaborating with agricultural universities and farmer cooperatives to implement standardised methods

The project is currently seeking funding from government initiatives and sustainable textile development programmes to scale up production facilities. The focus is on securing investments for:

• Setting up centralised processing units
• Developing specialised machinery for fibre extraction
• Establishing training infrastructure
• Creating standardised quality control systems

The goal is to transform arecanut waste processing into a sustainable rural enterprise while maintaining consistent quality standards across regions.