PFAS or synthetic chemicals classed as per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances in textiles represent a barrier to circularity through longer use of textile products, reuse and recycling as the risk of contamination and release increase, says a new report.
- Textiles are one of the biggest sources of PFAS pollution in Europe though the use of PFAS in most types of textiles is not a technical necessity, says the briefing by the European Environment Agency underpinned by a consultancy report, An assessment on PFAS in textiles in Europe's circular economy.
- The presence of PFAS in textiles can be a barrier to their longer use, reuse and recyclability, negatively influencing the sector’s shift to a more circular economy.
- Cleaner production methods, decarbonisation, and circularity are not just essential for meeting the UK’s sustainability agenda but also for supporting global climate ambitions and SDGs.
- Better tracing systems and implementation of regulation and sorting technology can help identify PFAS-contaminated products at end of life. This can also direct them to suitable treatment to prevent them from entering recycling streams while maximising safe textiles for recycling.
- Current practices are not sufficient to trace PFAS content in the after-use and waste stages. Moreover, the EU currently does not have technologies in place for general large-scale, efficient and cost-effective identification and sorting of textile waste containing PFAS.
- The textile categories for which suitable non-PFAS alternatives are not yet available are often used in specific occupational settings. For such uses, separate collection and destruction procedures could be put in place (if not already implemented) to ensure that these textiles are not mixed with the separately-collected textile waste for recycling, incineration or export.
KEY TAKEAWAYS: There is an opportunity to significantly reduce PFAS use and risk in Europe by stopping non-essential uses of PFAS in textiles since feasible alternatives already exist.
- PFAS in textiles represent a barrier to circularity through longer use of textile products, reuse and recycling as the risk of contamination and release increase.
- >The use of PFAS in most types of textiles is not a technical necessity. There is an opportunity to significantly reduce PFAS use and risk in Europe by stopping non-essential uses of PFAS in textiles since feasible alternatives already exist.
- For certain professional and technical textiles where alternatives are not yet available (e.g. personal protective equipment for firefighters, medical textiles or high-performance filters), separate collection and destruction procedures for textile waste should be considered.
THE CONTEXT: Textiles account for approximately 35% of total global PFAS demand. In line with this estimate, the WSP reports that one third of all PFAS in the EU — between 41,000 and 143,000 tonnes — are used in the textile sector.
- Textiles are one of the biggest sources of PFAS pollution in the EU. PFAS are used in clothing, home textiles, leather and technical applications.
- Polymeric PFAS constitute over 75% of PFAS in textile products and are used to provide functional properties. Both polymeric and non-polymeric PFAS can be released during a product’s lifespan, including when textiles are washed.
- The growth in textile consumption, including through fast fashion, has led to significant amounts of PFAS entering waste streams, with over half of disposed textiles going to landfill or incineration.
- The majority of textiles consumed in Europe are imported from countries in Asia, which commonly apply less stringent chemicals legislation than EU manufacturers. This means that there is very little information about the content of PFAS in imported textiles.
- Sorting, reuse and recycling capacities in Europe are limited. Therefore, most used textiles collected in the EU are exported to Africa and Asia, including those containing PFAS, where they are sorted and then resold and recycled or dumped or burned in the local environment.
