A significant breakthrough has been achieved with the turning of natural peptides into a water-proofing solution for leather finishing available to tanneries at commercial volumes.
- This has been achieved by Evolved By Nature, a biotechnology company developing sustainable, renewably sourced molecules.
The technology: Suitable for all types of leather, the biotech company’s Activated Silk L1 biofinishing system offers an alternative to harmful petrochemicals, PFAS coatings and toxic crosslinkers.
- The system also significantly reduces CO2 emissions and polyurethane use, outperforms incumbent finishing systems and seamless integrates into the tannery infrastructure.
- The biofinishing system is formulated with proprietary Activated Silk peptides, giving leather all of the performance and required style variations, without many of the toxic chemicals.
- Created with Activated Silk molecules derived from upcycled, cruelty-free silkworm cocoons, the biofinishing system not only out-greens toxic fossil fuel derived finishes, but out-performs them as well, with better scores for wet colorfastness to rubbing (CFR), Ballyflex (leather flex resistance), vapour transfer (breathability) and water and stain resistant solutions.
- Consisting of a biodegradable basecoat, topcoat and family of auxiliary chemicals to vary the optics, haptics and performance of finished articles, the system eliminates polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) and the need for cross-linkers (highly toxic, carcinogenic chemical sets that are added to most leather finishing as chemical bonding agents for waterproofing), while reducing the amount of polyurethane required and reducing CO2 emissions.
- Evolved By Nature is a biotechnology company that creates sustainable, renewably sourced molecules that make barriers better. Whether that barrier is human skin, apparel, or almost anything with a surface, Activated Silk biotechnology leverages natural silk peptides to protect and enhance those barriers, while being healthier for people and the planet than the existing petrochemical solutions.
Early movers: In Italy, tanneries including Sirte, Curtiba, Fracopel, Nuova Overlord and leather traders Pellami Due C have committed to implementing the Evolved By Nature biofinishing system. In Thailand, partner tanneries include Kongsiri, Chun Wang Brothers, Chankij, Classic, Limsilp, Vaikijanek, and SF Leather.
- Evolved By Nature has shown proof of the value proposition for their biofinishing system through full commercialisation at market scale. Alongside tannery adoption, projects to-date include collaborations with designers Jonathan Cohen, Patrick McDowell, Grace Ling, and Anya Hindmarch.
What they said:
We have a tremendous respect for the artistry, craft and legacy present in the leather industry, and we’re proud to offer a new set of tools that can help the modern tanner create articles that live up to their standards, while helping leather return to its natural origins. Leather has the potential to be not only a beautiful material, but a much more sustainable one as well.
— Greg Altman
Co-founder and CEO
Evolved By Nature
