A day-long symposium on khadi in New Delhi last week highlighted the versatile homespun fabric’s eco-friendly and small carbon footprint credentials which significantly consumes only 3 litres of water per metre as opposed to a staggering 55 litres per metre of conventional mill fabric.
- Speakers at the symposium on ‘Climate Challenges and Khadi: A Crusader of Science, Tradition & Sustainability’ underscored the environmental friendliness of khadi and its potential contribution to water conservation efforts, minimal energy consumption, underlining also the interconnectedness of the SDG goals with the principles and practices of khadi.
THE SYMPOSIUM: The aim of the symposium, organised by the Department of Fabric and Apparel Science of Lady Irwin College, University of Delhi, in association with Ministry of Earth Sciences, was to provide a platform to explore and discuss the fascinating versatility of khadi at the intersection of science and tradition.
Some key points that were highlighted by the various speakers:.
A NICHE PRODUCT: Khadi is a niche product, part of the country’s heritage which is also sustainable at its core. Efforts should be made to increase the visibility and desirability of khadi products to generate a need for them in the minds of the youth and for this the focus must be on design elements with emphasis on process assurance; and also on bridging the gap between tradition and technology to increase value returns.
- There is an urgent need to rekindle the spirit of khadi as a symbol of self-reliance, social empowerment, and environmental responsibility. The true essence of khadi lies not in commercial exploitation but in upholding the values and vision that Mahatma Gandhi instilled in this fabric.
- Khadi is not merely a fabric but a symbol of self-reliance, independence, and a means to empower the masses. Gandhi envisioned khadi as a potent tool for socioeconomic transformation, fostering village industries, and creating employment opportunities for the rural population.
- The misconception that Gandhi was against technical advancements was challenged with an example of Gandhi's innovation—a compact charkha that he carried with him while travelling. This illustrated that Gandhi was not opposed to technological progress but rather advocated for innovations that served the greater good and aligned with the principles of simplicity and sustainability.
- The urgency of abandoning excessive greed and prioritising sustainability over economic gains was stressed upon. The true essence of Khadi lies not in commercial exploitation but in upholding the values and vision that Mahatma Gandhi instilled in this fabric.
- In recent times khadi has been commercialised to a point where its primary objective of empowering the makers is overshadowed by profit-driven motives. There exists a disparity between the meagre wages received by the khadi workers and the high selling price of khadi products. This stark contrast, long been a concern within the industry, highlights the need for a sustainable and equitable approach to khadi production.
- It is crucial to revisit and reevaluate the core principles driving the khadi movement, returning to the ethos of self-reliance and equitable empowerment.
- There is a disparity in the appreciation and valuation of Indian handlooms within the domestic and international markets. While Indian handlooms are celebrated worldwide for their exquisite craftsmanship and cultural significance, they are not always equally cherished within the country itself. This disparity emphasises the importance of creating awareness and fostering a culture of appreciation for indigenous crafts within India.
THE YARN: A SWOT analysis of khadi yarn showed that since it is soft, it can be relatively weak, with knots occurring in the middle. To address this, the suggestion was to blend it with materials such as cotton, linen, and silk to enhance the strength and texture of the khadi yarn.
- Techniques like plying and folding to create intricate and fancy designs can expand the creative possibilities within the khadi industry.
- There should also be experimenting with dyes and finishes to offer a broader range of options for consumers.
- Design innovations in khadi reveal its adaptability to contemporary fashion and industrial requirements.
SUSTAINABLE CREDENTIALS: There is an urgent need for individuals and societies to adopt sustainable lifestyles, and khadi provides a template for such a lifestyle. By choosing khadi products, consumers contribute to sustainable production practices, reduced resource consumption, and a lower carbon footprint.
- Khadi represents the fusion of science, tradition, and technology. It is not merely a fabric but a symbol of self-reliance, employing traditional craftsmanship techniques while incorporating modern innovations. The artisanal skills handed down through generations coexist with cutting-edge technology in khadi production, make it an exemplar of sustainable and inclusive development.
- Khadi production is sustainable more so through the use of solar charkhas. The solar-powered spinning wheels not only contribute to environmental sustainability but also significantly reduce the cost of fabric production. These also enhance productivity and increase the earnings of the workers involved.
- Khadi is a “crusader” against climate challenges. Its timeless legacy continues to weave together tradition, science, and technology in the pursuit of a greener and more equitable future.
- The artisanal skills handed down through generations coexist with cutting-edge technology in khadi production, making it an exemplar of sustainable and inclusive development.
THE SESSIONS: The various sessions that witnessed thought-provoking discussions included — ‘Unpacking challenges and advancements in value-added khadi yarn’, ‘Spearheading innovation in khadi - Bridging tradition and technology’, 'Vartman sandharbh mein khadi’, ‘Beyond Fast Fashion: Sustainable Local Solutions’.
E-POSTER COMPETITION: An e-poster presentation competition, organised as part of the event, to give a platform for researchers and innovators to showcase their work in sustainability, saw shortlisting of 8 entries, covering topics such as sustainable fabric dyeing, social inclusion, and environmental sustainability.
- The two winning posters were ‘Study On Dyeing of Hemp and Linen Fabrics with Waste Banana Leaves (Musa Acuminata): Finding Sustainable Solutions’ and ‘Training of Persons with Visual Impairment in Macrame Technique Using Discarded Clothing: An Attempt Towards Social and Environmental Sustainability" respectively.
WHAT THEY SAID:
India is one of the few countries of the world to have the full value chain of the textile industry, namely the 4Fs — fibre, factory, fashion and foreign. Khadi is part of our country’s heritage which is also sustainable at its core. We can never have 100% standardisation in case of khadi since it is a niche handmade product.
— Roop Rashi Mahapatra
Textile Commissioner
Government of India
Khadi is deeply rooted in India's history and represents a sustainable alternative to modern textile production methods. The remarkable innovations in charkhas over the years not only preserve the traditional craftsmanship but also align it with modern sustainable practices like the harnessing of solar energy to power it.
— Ravi Chattopadhyay
Professor, Department of Textiles and Fibre Engineering
Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi
Khadi was not merely a fabric but a symbol of self-reliance, independence, and a means to empower the masses. Gandhi envisioned khadi as a potent tool for socioeconomic transformation, fostering village industries, and creating employment opportunities for the rural population. In recent times, khadi has been commercialised to a point where its primary objective of empowering the makers is overshadowed by profit-driven motives. empowerment.
— Ram Chander Rahi
Chairman
Gandhi Smarak Nidhi
The concept of ‘LiFE’ — Lifestyle For Environment stresses on the need for individuals and societies to adopt sustainable lifestyles, and the choices we make in our daily lives profoundly impact the environment. Khadi provides a template for such a lifestyle. By choosing khadi products, consumers contribute to sustainable production practices, reduced resource consumption, and a lower carbon footprint.
— Madhuri Nigam
Associate Professor
Dept. of Fabric and Apparel Science
Lady Irwin College
