Bangladesh Factories Making Clothes for Global Fashion Brands Linked to High PFAS Contamination of Surface and Drinking Waters

A global manufacturing centre of the fast fashion sector, Bangladesh, with no specific regulations on PFAS, has high levels of toxic PFAS chemicals in its surface and tap water samples, collected from industrial areas that are centres of the textiles industry throughout and around Dhaka.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • The highest PFAS levels were detected in 2019 in water from the Karnatali river, with levels more than 300 times the proposed EU limit.
  • Another sample, from Hatirjheel Lake in 2022, also contained both PFOA and PFOS, the latter testing at 185 times above a current Dutch advisory level for PFOS.
  • Samples with high PFAS levels were common in areas near textile producing facilities, adding to the evidence that the textiles industry may be a significant source of PFAS water pollution.
Water samples were collected from lakes and rivers in areas near densely populated areas and industrial centres including textiles and other manufacturing facilities (including garment, tannery, electronics, chemicals, pharmaceutical, and/or steel plants).
Toxic Sampling Water samples were collected from lakes and rivers in areas near densely populated areas and industrial centres including textiles and other manufacturing facilities (including garment, tannery, electronics, chemicals, pharmaceutical, and/or steel plants). ESDO-IPEN

High levels of toxic PFAS chemicals have been found in surface and tap water samples collected near industrial areas that are centres of the textiles industry throughout and around Dhaka. PFAS chemicals were found in nearly all samples, according to a field study.

  • The water analyses showed PFAS amounts in many samples at levels above current or proposed regulatory limits in the EU, US, or the Netherlands, with several samples containing one or more globally banned PFAS.
  • The study, Persistent Threat: PFAS in textiles and water in Bangladesh, has been published by the Environment and Social Development Organization (ESDO) and IPEN.
  • PFAS have been found in countless products where they provide water-, grease-, and stain-resistance and are widely used by the textiles industry, which accounts for about 50% of the total global use of PFAS and ranks second in PFAS emissions.
  • The textiles industry in Bangladesh is a global manufacturing centre of the fast fashion sector, with dozens of factories making clothing for major brands.

THE HIGHLIGHTS: As Bangladesh has no specific regulations on PFAS, the study compared its findings with standards developed or in development in the EU, Netherlands, and USA (expressed in nanograms per litre or ng/L). Key findings from the study include:

  • PFAS were detected in 27 of 31 surface water samples (87%). Of the 27 samples containing PFAS,
  • 18 samples (67%) contained one or more of the globally banned PFAS chemicals PFOA, PFOS, and/or PFHxS.
  • 19 samples (70%) had PFAS levels exceeding the proposed EU regulatory limit (4.4 ng/L).

THE DETAILS: The highest PFAS levels were detected in 2019 in water from the Karnatali river, with levels more than 300 times the proposed EU limit. That sample also had the highest level of two banned PFAS, more than 1,700 times above a current Dutch advisory limit for PFOA (0.3 ng/L) and more than 54,000 times above a current Dutch advisory limit for PFOS (0.007 ng/L).

  • Another sample, from Hatirjheel Lake in 2022, also contained both PFOA and PFOS, the latter testing at 185 times above a current Dutch advisory level for PFOS.
  • Samples with high PFAS levels were common in areas near textile producing facilities, adding to the evidence that the textiles industry may be a significant source of PFAS water pollution.
  • In two waterways where samples were taken in 2022 downstream and upstream from Export Processing Zones (the Dhaka and Adamjee EPZs), samples taken downstream from the facilities showed higher PFAS concentrations, reinforcing the conclusion that the textiles industry is the likely source of PFAS pollution.
  • Three of the four tap water samples from 2019 contained PFAS and tested above the US PFOA threshold for drinking water (4 ng/L).
  • The study also analysed clothing purchased in Bangladesh, as another potential source of PFAS exposure to residents. PFAS were detected in all five clothing items sampled, with one men’s jacket containing the globally banned chemical PFOA.

THE RESEARCH: Water samples were collected from lakes and rivers in areas near densely populated areas and industrial centres including textiles and other manufacturing facilities (including garment, tannery, electronics, chemicals, pharmaceutical, and/or steel plants).

  • Two sampling areas were near Export Processing Zones, special duty-free economic areas that host large concentrations of textile plants oriented toward international markets and export.
  • The samples were analysed by independent labs in the US.
  • Chemicals found in some samples from 2022 that were not found in 2019 suggest that manufacturers may be shifting away from banned or regulated PFAS chemicals to unregulated polymeric chemicals. However, this shift fails to address the PFAS problem, as the substitute chemicals are known to degrade into hazardous PFAS chemicals, including globally banned PFAS.

WHAT THEY SAID:

Bangladesh is an international textiles manufacturing hub, and the prevalence of toxic chemical emissions from this sector puts our residents at higher risk. The fashion export industry should not get a free pass to contaminate our rivers, lakes, and taps with PFAS. We are not against industry, but we are against pollution. As a party to the Stockholm Convention, Bangladesh should implement PFAS regulations and health-protective standards.

Siddika Sultana
Executive Director, Bangladesh
Environment and Social Development Organization

PFAS in our waterways, tap water, and clothing pose serious health and environmental threats, yet industry and policy makers have been slow to respond. Regulating thousands of PFAS chemicals one-by-one would take decades and leave our children at risk. We urgently need global controls on all PFAS chemicals as a class.

Shahriar Hossain (Lead Author)
Senior Policy and Technical Advisor
Environment and Social Development Organization

Safer alternatives to PFAS in textiles already exist. Given the many health risks at all stages of human development due to the constant exposure to PFAS, the textile industry should move quickly to phase out their PFAS use and be transparent about the PFAS content in their products.

Jitka Straková (Co-Author)
Global Researcher
IPEN

Persistent Threat
Persistent Threat
PFAS in textiles and water in Bangladesh
  • Authored by:

    Shahriar Hossain, Jitka Strakova, Siddika Sultana, Shanon Iffat Alam, Tanjima Haque Trisha, Golam Rabbani, Sara Brosche, Riley Howard, Joseph DiGangi

  • Publisher: Environment and Social Development Organization, IPEN
  • 56
 
 
  • Dated posted: 31 May 2024
  • Last modified: 31 May 2024