From Handlooms to Runways: The Rise of Ethiopia’s Conscious Fashion Movement

You work closely with weavers and artisans across Ethiopia. Could you paint a picture of how these collaborations have evolved—not just in design, but in the artisans’ livelihoods and creative agency?
Mekdes Mesfin: Working with weavers and artisans has been one of the most rewarding parts of building Demii Design. In the beginning, our collaborations were mainly about production—creating fabrics that matched certain colours or patterns. But over time, it has grown into a creative partnership built on trust and shared vision.

Now, the artisans are not just makers; they’re co-creators. They contribute ideas, experiment with textures, and bring their own artistry into each piece. This has also impacted their livelihoods — consistent orders, fair pay, and recognition have given them confidence and independence.

Many Ethiopian design labels now claim to be “ethical” or “sustainable.” What, in your view, distinguishes Demii’s approach from the growing crowd of purpose-driven brands?
Mekdes Mesfin: For me, sustainability goes far beyond using natural or locally sourced fabrics—it’s about building a conscious process from start to finish. Our focus is on how things are made, who makes them, and the pace at which we produce. We prioritise small-batch production, minimising waste, and designing timeless pieces that don’t follow disposable fashion cycles.

I also see sustainability as human-centred—ensuring artisans work in fair, safe, and empowering environments, with the time and dignity their craft deserves. Every decision, from pattern cutting to packaging, is guided by intention and respect for people and resources.

So, while many speak of ethical materials, at Demii Design sustainability lives in the process itself—in how we make, not just what we make.

The global fashion industry often romanticises “handmade” work but pays little for it. How do you ensure fair wages and equitable partnerships within Ethiopia’s weaving communities?
Mekdes Mesfin: It’s true—“handmade” is often celebrated in words but undervalued in practice. At Demii Design, we work to change that by building transparent, respectful, and long-term relationships with our weavers. Fair pay isn’t treated as charity—it’s the foundation of quality and integrity.

We set prices collaboratively with artisans, considering the time, skill, and detail that go into each fabric. Payments are made directly and promptly, with clear agreements that value their expertise. Beyond wages, we also invest in training, improved tools, and consistent orders that provide stability instead of seasonal income.

For me, fairness means giving artisans not just a livelihood, but ownership and recognition in the creative process—ensuring their craft is valued as the art it truly is.

What kinds of support systems — whether policy, infrastructure, or investment — do you think are most urgently needed to make artisan-based fashion truly scalable in Ethiopia?
Mekdes Mesfin: At Demii Design, we believe Ethiopia has incredible artisan talent, but to make artisan-based fashion truly scalable, a few key support systems are urgently needed.

First, policy support that makes it easier for small creative businesses to operate—such as simplified export procedures, reduced import taxes on materials, and incentives for locally made products—would allow brands like ours to grow sustainably.

Second, infrastructure and production support are essential. Access to well-equipped local manufacturing hubs, consistent electricity, and reliable logistics would help artisans and small brands scale production without losing the handmade quality that defines Ethiopian fashion.

Finally, investment in training and financing is critical—artisans need access to skill development, affordable credit, and creative business mentorship. With the right ecosystem, brands like Demii Design can empower more artisans, create jobs, and position Ethiopian craftsmanship as a force in the global fashion industry.

Exporting Ethiopian fashion faces logistical and perception barriers alike. What has been your experience taking Ethiopian handwoven fashion to international markets, and what has the response been so far?
Mekdes Mesfin: At Demii Design, we’ve experienced both the challenges and the excitement of sharing Ethiopian handwoven fashion with international audiences. Logistically, exporting remains complex—from customs delays to inconsistent shipping costs and limited access to reliable logistics partners. However, despite those hurdles, the response from international markets has been very encouraging. Audiences abroad are increasingly drawn to authenticity, sustainability, and storytelling—all of which are deeply rooted in Ethiopian craftsmanship.

Many buyers are fascinated by our weaving traditions and the spiritual and cultural depth behind each piece. The biggest challenge has been changing perceptions—helping people see Ethiopian fashion not just as “traditional,” but as modern, elegant, and globally relevant. Each showcase or pop-up event abroad helps bridge that gap and reinforces that our artisans’ work belongs on the global stage.

Collaboration is a recurring theme in your work. Are there examples where partnerships with designers, NGOs, or international platforms have meaningfully expanded opportunities for Ethiopian artisans?
Mekdes Mesfin: Yes—collaboration has been at the heart of Demii Design’s growth and impact. Working with both local and international partners has opened powerful opportunities for Ethiopian artisans. For example, we’ve collaborated with creative designers who share our vision of merging traditional weaving with modern silhouettes, which has helped artisans see their work in new, innovative ways.

We’ve also worked alongside development-focused NGOs and women’s cooperatives that provide training, tools, and fair income opportunities for artisans—ensuring that their skills are valued and sustained. Participating in international fashion showcases and embassy events has also connected us to global networks and potential buyers, amplifying the visibility of Ethiopian craftsmanship. These collaborations have proven that when creativity meets partnership, artisan fashion can create not only beautiful designs but also lasting social and economic impact.

The next generation of Ethiopian designers is emerging fast, often blending digital creativity with craft. How do you see Demii engaging with this new wave — mentorship, innovation, or collaboration?
Mekdes Mesfin: We see this new generation of Ethiopian designers as an exciting and essential part of the industry’s evolution. They bring a fresh digital perspective, while we bring experience in craft, storytelling, and production—and together, there’s so much potential. Our vision is to engage through mentorship and collaboration, creating spaces where ideas and skills flow both ways. We’re already exploring ways to connect artisans with young creatives who understand branding, digital marketing, and design technology, helping them translate traditional craftsmanship into modern platforms. Innovation at Demii isn’t just about style—it’s about building bridges between hand and heart, tradition and technology, so that Ethiopian fashion continues to grow with purpose and creativity.

If you could imagine Ethiopia’s fashion industry ten years from now, what would you hope it looks like—both in how the world perceives Ethiopian design and how local artisans experience their work and worth?
Mekdes Mesfin: Ten years from now, I envision an Ethiopian fashion industry that stands proudly on the global stage — known for its authenticity, craftsmanship, and ethical beauty. I hope the world will see Ethiopian design not as a niche or “cultural” category, but as a global standard of quality and creativity. Locally, I dream of an industry where artisans are empowered, well-paid, and respected as the true backbone of our fashion identity. I want to see more women and youth leading fashion enterprises, using innovation and faith-driven values to transform lives. For Demii Design, that future means continuing to build a brand that inspires pride, preserves culture, and proves that sustainable, artisan-based fashion from Ethiopia can compete—and shine—anywhere in the world.