We All Need to Provide Facts and Figures that Underpin LCA and Recycling Processes

In April, Kelheim presented some bio-based hygiene solutions at INDEX 23. Could you share some more details on these, and how it fits into Kelheim's overall emphasis on hygiene solutions?
Marina Crnoja-Cosic: At INDEX 23, we showcased our latest innovations in hygiene fibres as well as our long-established brands like for example our number one tampon fibre Galaxy. At Kelheim Fibres, we see two paths to make hygiene products more sustainable. First, by producing conventional single-use products using biobased materials instead of synthetics, thus making them biodegradable. 

Second, by replacing single-use products with reusable alternatives, ideally also based on biodegradable materials. In both cases, product performance must not be compromised, especially in the sensitive field of hygiene where product reliability is crucial. Our biobased specialty fibres deliver exactly that and are perfectly in line with current trends. We witnessed this once again at INDEX 23.

Nonwovens and hygiene. What is Kelheim's take on the interplay between the two? Do you foresee the hygiene textiles market being dominated by nonwovens in the future? Please elaborate.
Marina Crnoja-Cosic: In the hygiene sector, nonwoven materials offer distinct advantages such as softness, absorbency, and fluid management, making them well-suited for a wide range of hygiene applications, particularly in single-use products. However, as the product landscape evolves and diversifies, and with the emergence of reusable solutions, technology will evolve, too, and I believe that a combination of different technologies will continue to shape the future of the industry. Sustainable and innovative solutions, including bio-based materials and advanced manufacturing processes, will contribute to a diverse market.

We at least are committed to thinking “outside the nonwoven box” and to driving these advancements. One notable achievement in this area is our development of the functional inlay for the SUMO washable baby diaper in collaboration with Sumo and the STFI (Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut). We created a completely new nonwovens construction that unites the advantages of nonwoven and textile constructions and demonstrates significantly superior performance in air permeability, liquid absorption, and rewetting tests compared to commercially available solutions made of synthetic fibres or cotton in knitted structures. This earned us the Techtextil Innovation Award 2022 and a spot among the finalists for the IDEA Long-Life Product Achievement Award 2022, which we are very proud of!

ITMA too is just over. The biggest industry event. What did you showcase there?
Marina Crnoja-Cosic: Over the years, Kelheim Fibres has evolved from being solely a supplier of biobased specialty fibres to becoming a collaborative partner for the entire industry. Examples such as the joint development of menstrual underwear with Santoni and the collaborative effort in creating a biobased baby diaper with Andritz exemplify this transformation. In addition to showcasing our innovative fibre products, we wanted to highlight this aspect at ITMA. We are always open to new ideas and developments and are attentive to the needs of our partners and stakeholders.

[This is related to CanopyStyle's Audit Report for 2022] Could you care to comment on this: "8.2: The research and development phase for the production of pulp and cellulosic fibre made from alternative fibre sources has been successfully completed and the MMCF producer is entering a commercial scale phase." Please update us on the commercial scale phase.
Marina Crnoja-Cosic: While I can’t elaborate on the technical details, I can confirm that we are collaborating with the Swedish textile recycling company Renewcell to produce viscose fibres made from their recycled cellulose Circulose.

Furthermore, we are constantly exploring alternative raw material options. There is a wide range of ideas and investigations at various stages of progress.

However, we must not forget that there are also some challenges on the linear to circular path. First, there are technical challenges associated with the raw material itself and the production of fibre from it. At Kelheim, we have made significant progress in overcoming these challenges. We have acquired extensive knowledge and expertise in working with alternative raw materials, such as pre- or post-consumer waste, as well as other materials. 

Second, our goal is to achieve a completely transparent, 100% European production process, enabling us to close the loop within Europe. To achieve this, there are two key conditions: favourable framework conditions that allow for competitive production, and a well-established supply chain that supports this goal and purchases the fibres.

Furthermore, we all need to look each other in the eye and provide the facts and figures that underpin the LCA (life cycle analysis) and sustainability recycling processes.

Open and honest communication is crucial for all stakeholders involved!

Section 11 of the Audit also talks about how Kelheim is evaluating suppliers’ performance in reducing GHG, and also monitor whether their suppliers are sourcing from tropical peatlands and/or intact forest landscapes. The Audit does not tell us how. So, could you please elaborate?
Marina Crnoja-Cosic: We have implemented a robust supplier evaluation process to assess our suppliers' performance in various ecological and ethical aspects, including their efforts in reducing greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. This process involves ongoing dialogue with our suppliers, conducting audits, and striving for transparency throughout the entire supply chain. As part of this process, we administer a regular (annual) questionnaire to our suppliers, which provides valuable insights into their initiatives and achievements in reducing GHG emissions.

How does Kelheim Fibres look at the viscose segment? How much do you see the global market growing in the next ten years? Will this growth be organic, or do you see viscose biting into other fibre segments like polyester or cotton?
Marina Crnoja-Cosic:  The growth is driven by several factors, including the growing awareness and preference for sustainable fibres, as well as the development of innovative applications across various industries.

Viscose fibres are derived from cellulose, which is sourced from renewable raw material wood. Our fibres are 100% biodegradable. Unlike natural fibres, which are already available in fibre form, our fibres are intentionally designed during the production process. We can customise their dimensions, cross-sections, and even incorporate functional additives within the fibre matrix. This allows us to create fibres with properties that are precisely tailored to meet the specific requirements of the end product. We offer a unique combination of nature and performance.

Consumer consciousness regarding environmental aspects is increasing, with more individuals making purchasing decisions based on sustainability. However, they also expect products to meet their performance and quality standards. With our plant-based, yet specialised and functionalised viscose fibres, we offer a product that perfectly aligns with these demands. Therefore, we anticipate significant demand and tremendous growth potential for our fibres.

And while I personally believe that synthetic materials in single-use products should be substituted — and can be substituted, given the availability of bio-based alternatives—I also recognise that there will still be ample space in the future for synthetic fibres with their distinctive characteristics and functionalities. After all, different end products have distinct requirements.

We must also remember that a very important point of the European Textile Strategy is durability, which also emphasises sustainability. Some products can only meet these requirements if the perfect materials are used. Blends with cellulosic and synthetic fibres play an important role.

We looked at the Downloads section on your website, but could not find anything specific related to either recycling or circularity? Could you tell us what Kelheim's official stand is about both, and how you are implementing those?
Marina Crnoja-Cosic: Circularity is indeed a widely used and comprehensive term, encompassing various aspects of sustainable practices. At Kelheim Fibres, we view circularity as not only the recycling of materials but also the concept of closed-loop production, where materials are recovered and reintroduced into the production process, enabling resource-efficient operations.

In line with circularity, our focus extends beyond recycling to the inherent circularity of viscose itself. Viscose fibres, derived from plants, are fully biodegradable, allowing for a natural cycle where they can be returned to the environment. This natural cycle embodies the essence of circularity, aligning with our core principles.

Regarding our commitment to recycling and circularity, I would like to highlight our recent collaborations. One notable partnership is with Recycling-Atelier Augsburg, where our fibres enable the production of high-quality new products, such as nonwovens made from textile waste, closing the loop and promoting circularity within the textile industry.

Additionally, our collaboration with Renewcell who we mentioned before, further demonstrates our commitment to circularity.

Kelheim's own stand on overall issues is very clear. But what is your official position on blends? A major problem with recycling has to do with blends? What do you have to say to buyers who use your fibres to make blended products?
Marina Crnoja-Cosic: Blends, which often combine the benefits of different fibres, have become integral to the industry and cannot be overlooked. While we acknowledge their significance, we also recognise the challenges they present in terms of recycling. Blended products can complicate the recycling process due to the difficulty of separating and recovering individual fibre components.

However, we remain optimistic that technological advancements will provide solutions to address this issue. Research and development efforts are underway to explore innovative techniques that can effectively recycle and recover fibres from blended products. As the industry evolves, we anticipate the emergence of more sustainable and efficient recycling methods that can accommodate blends.

To our customers who utilise our fibres in blended products, we encourage open dialogue and collaboration.