Produce Less, Better and What Is Necessary. That's Real Sustainability: Paolo Gnutti

Paolo Gnutti, described as the ‘Wizard of Denim’ and creator of fashion and trends in the indigo world for 35 years, formed 'PG By Paolo Gnutti' in 2018 as a 'Made in Italy’ enterprise focused on garments for mid to high-end productions. Gnutti has joined hands with denim giant ISKO for a new fabric collection: ISKO Luxury by PG. The official launch was held at the ongoing Denim Premiere Vision in Berlin on Tuesday, 17 May. A quick chat.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • The world of denim has transformed because unfortunately the work system has impoverished more and more what used to be a main actor, where the fabric had to speak, excite, and make a garment unique and multifaceted.
  • My biggest fear? That more & more "flat" collections will not create more archives for the future generation & that the new levers of denim will not have more tools of comparison to create new moods. Never before have I seen little research & few ideas.
  • Produce less, produce better and produce what is necessary—this is the real sustainability.
Sustainability should be taught to children as early as elementary school.  Not only less water, less electricity, less gas and less cotton, but more respect for the environment, more respect for what we have. Let us consume what we need. Reuse, recycle. True sustainability is in each of us. Industry is a consequence of our needs, not our whims!
Respect the Environment Sustainability should be taught to children as early as elementary school. Not only less water, less electricity, less gas and less cotton, but more respect for the environment, more respect for what we have. Let us consume what we need. Reuse, recycle. True sustainability is in each of us. Industry is a consequence of our needs, not our whims! Paolo Gnutti

The world of jeans/denims would have changed dramatically since the time you started. What do you think has been the most dramatic or significant event that crosses your mind?
The world of denim has not changed radically, but in my humble opinion it has transformed. It has transformed because unfortunately the work system has impoverished more and more what used to be a main actor, where the fabric had to speak, excite, and make a garment unique and multifaceted.

I was born at a time when laundries in Italy were workshops of ideas, crazy work spots where crazy people (I was one of those) gave birth to "crazy ideas" and turned them into unique garments (let's remember that much of today's research still draws from those moods).

I've been working in this world for 34 years now and I've seen denim evolve in different stages, but never before have I seen a fairly flat market, little research and few ideas that surprise (I'm talking exclusively about denim not on a stylistic level).

My biggest fear? That more and more "flat" collections will not create more archives for the future generation and that the new levers of denim will not have more tools of comparison to create new moods.

The pandemic has changed a lot of things. Even during the pandemic, athleisure/comfortwear was the apparel of choice. Luxury too took a hit because it did not make sense. So, how does your new line fit into a new world? How is it being positioned?
The pandemic unfortunately changed  lifestyles for all of us. Clothing was no longer a priority—so the whole supply chain was drastically affected, and these restrictions also radically changed us in dressing... jumpsuits, pyjamas... they were the daily uniform for many of us, and this remained a must that in my head turned into a product—being cool but comfortable at the same time. My collections today are set on this mood—beautiful but comfortable!

I think two worlds have met today. ISKO's sustainable manufacturing vision and my vision of luxury denim will be a format that will surprise the whole denim world a little bit. That’s why my new motto for this line is Born to Amaze, says the ‘Wizard of Denim’, Paolo Gnutti.
Born to Amaze I think two worlds have met today. ISKO's sustainable manufacturing vision and my vision of luxury denim will be a format that will surprise the whole denim world a little bit. That’s why my new motto for this line is Born to Amaze, says the ‘Wizard of Denim’, Paolo Gnutti. Paolo Gnutti

What is special about 'ISKO Luxury by PG’?
I think two worlds have met today. ISKO's sustainable manufacturing vision and my vision of luxury denim will be a format that will surprise the whole denim world a little bit. That’s why my new motto for this line is Born to Amaze

Today, a significant chunk of denims are from elastane / MMCF / regenerated cellulosic fibres. How do you think this impacts the design process? Do you think design will be increasingly dictated by the demands of the market (in terms of fibres/fabrics)?
Continuous research to produce more sustainable fabrics is necessary, but we must be very careful. Fashion is fashion and it must remain so—beautiful, enticing, able to amaze, tickle desires, entice to buy... A flat product, similar one to another, certainly will be able to satisfy the word 'sustainable', but an unsold product, even if sustainable, goes back to the problem of recycling—something that is not consumed. Produce less, produce better and produce what is necessary—this is the real sustainability in my opinion!

Last: designers and fashion sustainability. When you would have started, there was no such word called 'sustainability' in the design world. How do you think designers have adapted to changing times? Have they been leading from the front? Or do you think they are lagging behind?
I think that today the word sustainability is used a little bit by everyone but who really can explain what is or what is not sustainable. Sustainability is not a choice, it is an obligation. It is a way of life that should be taught to children as early as elementary school, our old civics education. Not only less water, less electricity, less gas and less cotton, but more respect for the environment, more respect for what we have. Let us consume what we need. Reuse, recycle. True sustainability is in each of us. Industry is a consequence of our needs, not our whims!

 
 
  • Dated posted: May 19, 2022
  • Last modified: May 19, 2022