Falling into the Blame Game Is Counter-Productive for all in the Value Chain

Taiwanese player Yee Chain International Ltd was a key participant in a project that sought to understand the systemic challenges that are stymieing the fashion industry’s efforts to go the whole hog. Chief Sustainability Officer, Martin Su, and Global Sustainability and Circularity Scaling Manager, Anett Soti, talk about ground truths in this engaging conversation.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • The acute challenge remains that equal distribution of costs is a utopia because impacts and capacities vary. A lack of equal power between the value chain leads to an uneven distribution of the costs and risks associated.
  • Creating a mechanism for sharing costs and responsibilities more equitably is crucial. The idea is that we all have a role to play, and we should all act at some point on shared costs and risks.
  • To this day, talking about sustainability is still more lucrative than doing sustainability. What needs to happen is to have a system that rewards actions not words.
Unified standards, greater efficiency, and reduced fragmentation could be the shared goal of the future for the industry. However, achieving this would be incredibly challenging; hence tailoring solutions to specific contexts while ensuring coherence and interoperability across different regions is the way forward.
One Goal Unified standards, greater efficiency, and reduced fragmentation could be the shared goal of the future for the industry. However, achieving this would be incredibly challenging; hence tailoring solutions to specific contexts while ensuring coherence and interoperability across different regions is the way forward. Yee Chain International

Yee Chain International Ltd, established in Taiwan in 1997, is a leading manufacturer of fabrics and neoprene rubber foam. The company operates in Taiwan, Vietnam, Indonesia and China, and runs fully equipped laboratories to monitor quality assurance. Today, Yee Chain is a trusted partner with dozens of international sportswear brands. Yee Chain works with a circular mindset, and the company’s goal is to shift away from the take-make-dispose system. 

Yee Chain was one of the tier-2 manufacturers who were part of the Enabling Systemic Circularity in Fashion (ESCF) project of the Forum for the Future that was run from 2023 to 2024. The project report was released in the third week of January this year.

One of the key findings of the report was this: "Despite the urgency for change, stakeholders are not aligned on critical goals or the actions to achieve them." What are you doing as a stakeholder to align your own work with that of others? What are the challenges therein? 
Martin Su: As a stakeholder, we initiate continuous discussions, dialogues, and status check-ins with other stakeholders to better understand their diverse priorities and needs in the fashion value chain. The weighting of our priorities might differ, which can lead to different levels of engagement and action-taken on the shared interests. We also work with various third party platform organisations who are creating these needed “safe spaces” for open and honest dialogues to foster trust, respect, and understanding among us stakeholders, which can lead to more inclusive and creative system-validated solutions.

Anett Soti: We also actively participate in collaborative initiatives in the APAC region that involve various actors in the value chain, ensuring that the costs and benefits of transitioning to circularity are more equitably distributed. We don’t just engage with peer producers but with sustainability assessment policymakers, funds and financial institutions through active participation in public participations through a new group of progressive fashion producers, called the Fashion Producer Collective. 

Martin Su: Our challenges in aligning work with others are multi-fold. First, misalignment on key priorities because different stakeholders may have varying understandings and priorities regarding circularity, such as whether it sufficiently includes social aspects and inclusivity. Second, the uneven distribution of costs and risks, because the costs and risks associated with transitioning to a low-impact sector are often unevenly distributed across the value chain, leading to resistance and hindering progress. Third, the lack of inclusive dialogue, because policymakers and financiers may not adequately engage with all value chain actors, particularly those at lower tiers, resulting in ineffective policies and financial mechanisms. And last, breaking down sensitivities because those legal and commercial sensitivities can hinder open discussions and the sharing of information necessary for scaling impactful interventions and avoiding repeated failures.

Another finding is this: "The interconnecting costs of the transition towards a low-impact and ultimately regenerative sector are unevenly distributed across the value chain." But costs can never be even, because the impacts are not even and capacities are not the same either. Comments, please.
Martin Su: The acute challenge remains that equal distribution of costs is a utopia because impacts and capacities vary. A lack of equal power between the value chain leads to an uneven distribution of the costs and risks associated with transitioning to a low-impact sector. This unequal distribution can hinder positive action and progress due to concerns over feasibility, short-term profitability, and long-term viability. We believe that new innovations could be developed inclusively and collaboratively, integrating diverse perspectives from across the value chain. Acquiring this approach can share and mitigate risks, uncovering opportunities for impact and business benefit. It also calls for a mindset shift towards viewing suppliers—we prefer to call ourselves producers or supply chain partners—as equal stakeholders with valuable technical skillsets and insights, capable of driving the change. 

There's a lot of blame game, and also passing the buck around. For example, activists blame brands and retailers, brands blame policymakers, manufacturers blame brands. The debate itself seems to be going around in circles. How do you react to that?
Martin Su: It might be easy to fall into the blame game. It makes all of us in the value chain counterproductive. When us stakeholders are focused on assigning blame, we are less likely to invest in finding solutions. The tendency to blame others reveals a systemic issue within our industry—the complexity of the value chain, with its many interconnected actors, makes it easy for us stakeholders to feel that the problems are beyond our control or that others are primarily responsible. The blame game often stems from a lack of a shared vision and goals. If us stakeholders do not agree on what we are trying to achieve, it's difficult to work together effectively, and blame becomes a way of expressing frustration or disagreement

However, to move forward, what needs to happen is for actions to start, just like this co-initiated and co-created ESCF programme space that enabled us to start somewhere. Someone needs to take the lead to start some actions. We would try our best to do so as a manufacturer, and hopefully find partners who would react to our actions and start some changes to break the blame game. Creating a mechanism for sharing costs and responsibilities more equitably is also crucial. The idea is that we all have a role to play, and we should all act at some point on shared costs and risks. For us, we would be the one to start, we can take the lead

While the project partners were located globally, it retained a greater focus on Asia given that a large majority of textile and fashion production is situated in the region.
While the project partners were located globally, it retained a greater focus on Asia given that a large majority of textile and fashion production is situated in the region. Yee Chain International
Yee Chain was one of the tier-2 manufacturers who were part of the Enabling Systemic Circularity in Fashion (ESCF) project of the Forum for the Future that was run from 2023 to 2024.
Key Partner Yee Chain was one of the tier-2 manufacturers who were part of the Enabling Systemic Circularity in Fashion (ESCF) project of the Forum for the Future that was run from 2023 to 2024. Yee Chain International

Conversations are obviously needed to sort things out. But don't you think conversations have been going on for a while, and there's already too much of that? There are too many initiatives, associations, etc. Comments, please. 
Martin Su: To this day, talking about sustainability is still more lucrative than doing sustainability, thus there are more conversations about it than actions. What needs to happen is to have a system that rewards actions not words. Markets react to money and it can only change when we put a price on carbon to start making people want to act on sustainability issues. 

Anett Soti: There's also a paradox here. On one hand, dialogue and collaboration are essential for addressing complex challenges. On the other hand, the sheer volume of conversations and initiatives can lead to "initiative fatigue" and a lack of focus. Many conversations and initiatives may be happening in parallel without a unifying purpose or direction, and some may be excluding key voices or failing to address the issues that matter most to those most affected. While conversations are necessary, they are not sufficient on their own.

To overcome this challenge, we can prioritise collaboration over proliferation—to be more specific, prioritise horizontal collaboration dynamics between institutions, organisations and collective of brands and producers together. Instead of creating more and newer initiatives, we could have a greater focus on enhancing the collaboration dynamics and coordination climate across the already running ones. This can help to avoid duplication of systemic effort initiated by institutions and organisations which brands and producers join in, advance co-validity in interconnectedness, and create a more unified front. 

There's a need for one global platform and one global policy. Otherwise, this cannot work. What would your suggestions be towards achieving this? Frankly, is this even possible? 
Martin Su: Science can be a great tool. It can create a unified voice of what needs to be done, and the world should work on it based on their capabilities. It then can be measured on a yearly basis to see the progress of the actions. The idea is to have a common goal with trackable information. 

Anett Soti: Unified standards, greater efficiency, and reduced fragmentation could be the shared goal of the future for the industry. However, achieving this would be incredibly challenging; hence tailoring solutions to specific contexts while ensuring coherence and interoperability across different regions is the way forward. Alternative approaches might be more feasible and effective, such as co-designing and co-developing shared flexible frameworks and flexible standards using the already existing standard creation mechanism platforms. This could provide a common ground without necessarily imposing a single global policy.

On one hand, dialogue and collaboration are essential for addressing complex challenges. On the other hand, the sheer volume of conversations and initiatives can lead to "initiative fatigue" and a lack of focus. Many conversations and initiatives may be happening in parallel without a unifying purpose or direction, and some may be excluding key voices or failing to address the issues that matter most to those most affected. While conversations are necessary, they are not sufficient on their own.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 16 April 2025
  • Last modified: 16 April 2025