Enabling Systemic Circularity and a Collective Push for Industry-Wide Change

The path to circularity in fashion is not paved with singular solutions or isolated innovations. It is shaped by the willingness of stakeholders to come together, question assumptions, and collaborate in new ways. The ESCF project has shown that manufacturers, when given space and voice, are not just implementers—they are co-creators of the future. 

Long Story, Cut Short
  • There are ambitious declarations and bombast at one end, and half-hearted measures and logistical deadlocks at the other. Somewhere between intention and implementation, the promise of circularity is getting lost in circles.
  • Across boardrooms and well-hyped industry events, circularity is the buzzword. But on the ground, the translation of theories into practice is uneven—often token in gesture, and occasionally misguided and misplaced.
  • The initial phase of the project helped stakeholders identify not just challenges, but also the structural opportunities that could enable deeper transformation.
Participation in ESCF was not token—it demanded deep engagement from all. For Yee Chain, this meant drawing from years of hands-on trials in circular textile manufacturing. As supply chain partners, it was committed to share its existing knowledge and to advance development/ use of new knowledge and tools to actively contribute to the project.
deep engagement Participation in ESCF was not token—it demanded deep engagement from all. For Yee Chain, this meant drawing from years of hands-on trials in circular textile manufacturing. As supply chain partners, it was committed to share its existing knowledge and to advance development/ use of new knowledge and tools to actively contribute to the project. Yee Chain International

Circularity was supposed to have been the decisive game-changer for the fashion industry. It was about the reimagining of production and consumption, where waste becomes resource, and endings morph into beginnings. Yet, despite the rhetoric and a growing list of industry commitments, something isn’t quite working. For all the talk of take-back schemes, recycled fibres and closed-loop systems, the volumes of waste keep climbing, and the linear model remains stubbornly intact.

Across boardrooms and well-hyped industry events, circularity is the buzzword. But on the ground, the translation of theories into practice is uneven—often token in gesture, and occasionally misguided and misplaced. The disconnect is hard to ignore—there are ambitious declarations and bombast at one end, and half-hearted measures and logistical deadlocks at the other. Somewhere between intention and implementation, the promise of circularity is getting lost in circles.

Yes, efforts are under way to understand why things are not working, and why so. One such endeavour has come from the Forum for the Future which launched its Enabling Systemic Circularity in Fashion (ESCF) project in 2023 to bring together diverse stakeholders from across the global fashion value chain to think, act and innovate together.

This ambitious initiative brought together manufacturers, brands, recyclers and knowledge partners to create a shared understanding of the barriers to circularity—and more importantly, to identify ways to break through them. With a mix of strategic futures thinking, honest dialogue and experimental prototyping, ESCF marked a turning point in how fashion collaborates to meet shared goals. Two key partners—Yee Chain International and Crystal International—share their journey through the project and the insights that could shape circularity’s future.

From Prior Efforts to Shared Aspirations

For some manufacturers like Taiwan’s big player, Yee Chain International, participating in ESCF was a logical next step. Their relationship with Forum for the Future began earlier through the Circular Leap Asia initiative (2018–2020), which aimed to empower Asian fashion manufacturers in scaling circular solutions. “When Forum approached us to participate in ESCF, it felt like a natural progression from Circular Leap Asia, to take a whole-of-industry diagnosis at the issues preventing circularity, and not just manufacturers’ role,” says Martin Su, Chief Sustainability Officer at Yee Chain.

The initial discussions among project members revolved around how to create an environment conducive to candid conversations. “One of the initial discussions, once the cohort of brands, manufacturers and knowledge partners had gathered, was on the project charter. This focused on principles for collaboration, including ensuring a safe space for dialogue, confidentiality and antitrust, values around respect and actively listening to others,” elaborates Su.

For major Hong Kong-based apparel manufacturer, Crystal International, the motivation was rooted in expanding its already active commitment to circularity. From launching a closed-loop denim collection to joining the Circulose Supplier Network, the manufacturer has steadily integrated circularity into its sustainability strategy. “We joined the ESCF project to contribute to the development of circularity strategies in fashion. We also hoped to deepen exchanges with other industry peers and learn from each other, so as to deploy our circularity plan more strategically,” notes a company spokesperson. The initial phase of the project helped stakeholders identify not just challenges, but also the structural opportunities that could enable deeper transformation.

‘PROTOTYPE’ INNOVATIONS:

Three ‘prototype’ innovations were developed through in-person sessions with the partner cohort, each innovation developed according to a commonly held vision for what a truly circular future may look like and what change it will require.

  1. Cross-Functional Regulatory Alliance: Reconceptualising industry coalitions and initiatives to embed inclusivity and challenge norms, ensuring all voices are heard and regulation is stronger for it.
  2. Value Material Royalties: A radical approach in recognising value in fibres and materials, bringing consumers closer to circularity and how we might conceive of ensuring every stakeholder benefits from circular models.
  3. Circular Fashion Hub: A geographically proximate closed loop fashion system, enabling the rapid development, iteration and piloting of innovation, and an eco-system that incubates and grows new entrants while achieving regional and business sustainability goals.
Crystal International joined the ESCF project to contribute to the development of circularity strategies in fashion. It also hoped to deepen exchanges with other industry peers and learn from each other, so as to deploy its circularity plan more strategically.
Strategic thinking Crystal International joined the ESCF project to contribute to the development of circularity strategies in fashion. It also hoped to deepen exchanges with other industry peers and learn from each other, so as to deploy its circularity plan more strategically. Crystal International

What the Partners Contributed and Gained

Participation in ESCF was not token—it demanded deep engagement from all. For Yee Chain, this meant drawing from years of hands-on trials in circular textile manufacturing. “As supply chain partners, we were committed to share our existing knowledge and to advance development/ use of new knowledge and tools to actively contribute to the project,” says Anett Soti, Global Sustainability and Circularity Scaling Manager at Yee Chain. The continuous back-and-forth with peers and facilitation by the Forum team helped surface common goals and unearth actionable insights.

Yee Chain participated in working groups focused on business models and waste reduction & waste management, contributing knowledge from their real-world implementation of regenerative organic cotton and closed-loop textile-to-textile (T2T) recycling. “We launched and soft landed very first regenerative organic cotton product lines with key brand partners on the global retail marketplace and T2T closed loop recycling product lines on the local-to-local retail marketplace with a lot of learnings to share and equip our industry,” outlines Su. They also had an active role in shaping the final report, ensuring it reflected insights from across the supply chain.

Crystal International, meanwhile, brought its operational expertise to the table. “Our role as a project partner was to provide insights from our operational experiences and sustainability initiatives. This included active participation in workshops, and contributing to discussions on prototypes and best practices for circularity,” says the spokesperson. Their team also ensured physical presence at the key in-person workshops in Singapore, which proved crucial to building trust and co-creating strategy.

Importantly, Crystal International also helped in amplifying the project’s reach. “With the social media toolkits and other communication materials prepared by the Forum, we also actively supported the project's outreach efforts.”

Still, both manufacturers acknowledge the challenge looming on the horizon: sustaining the momentum. “A key challenge is what’s next: sustaining momentum of the group, especially in a climate where the industry faces a lot of competing challenges,” Su points out. Crystal International echoes this sentiment. “Indeed, our next challenge is to draw out a feasible roadmap to progressively move forward our shared vision.” 

Systemic Factors

Enabling Systemic Circularity in Fashion (ESCF) explores how systemic factors—such as power dynamics and uneven relationships between actors within the supply chain—are currently blocking progress, and how to develop new approaches to overcome these factors in order to unlock circularity’s potential.

Collective Effort

ESCF was the collective effort of a group of textile and apparel stakeholders who share an interest in identifying and better understanding the enabling conditions and systemic barriers that support or hinder the successful scaling of circular innovations in the fashion industry.

PROJECT TEAM

The project team was led by Forum for the Future with the support of VDE Consultancy, Clarice Garcia and Fashion for Good. It was supported by Flotilla Foundation and Spronck Foundation.

PARTNER ORGANISATIONS

Alpine Group/Paradise Textiles, Crystal International Group, Epic Group, Fashion for Good, GAP Inc., Lenzing, MAS Holdings, Piping Hot, Shahi Exports, TESCO, Textile Exchange, Reformation, Yee Chain.

Learnings, Shifts, and What Comes Next

Beyond deliverables and discussions, the ESCF journey has been a deep learning curve for the partners involved. One of the most profound takeaways for Yee Chain was the ability to zoom out from the day-to-day grind and take a systems-level view of their work. 

“Forum for the Future always empowers us to slow down and to break free from our daily constraints. In our day-to-day work, it can be hard to see the bigger picture, but we sometimes must slow down so that we can go even faster,” says Soti. She praises the project’s focus on “futures tools”—methods that allow participants to imagine and work towards radical alternatives.

She also highlights how the structure of ESCF created space for honest engagement. “As a platform, ESCF is critical for us, as it has truly created a safe space for us to speak with other peers in the same space. It helps us not just think about our work more strategically, but also what the industry needs,” Soti recollects. Looking ahead, she believes deeper participation from brands and recyclers will be essential. “Achieving the goals of circularity is the same as playing a team sport, and we need a more collaborative structure to enable this,” she says. “What we will need for the next phase of ESCF is to involve more brand and recycler players across the supply chain, because a great number of producers together with some brands did the bold start.”

Crystal International drew similar conclusions. “Bringing stakeholders equally together, the voice of manufacturers is strengthening. We hope to continue to be in the course of action enabling the needed shift in circularity,” their spokesperson asserts. The company is particularly committed to proactive engagement and collaboration, which it sees as critical for fair, inclusive progress. “It enables a fair and inclusive involvement of different parties to understand the challenges and complexities in the transition.”

Karen Sim, Principal Sustainability Strategist at Forum for the Future, summarises ESCF’s broader ambition. “ESCF empowers partners to see beyond their daily work to the role they play in the wider system,” she says. “We enable partners to look past what is immediately ahead of them and instead look at the bigger picture as well as deeper beneath the surface to understand the root causes, beliefs and structures that keep the system in place.”

Sim also emphasises the need for new ways of collaborating. “While many are aware of the importance of collaboration, what’s also critical is how we collaborate differently for better outcomes,” she says. ESCF does this by pushing participants to go beyond the technical and into the “values and principles that the sector needs to transition to one that is socially just and ecologically safe.”

Last, she underlines, is the importance of constructive dialogue. “Across multiple fora, there can be limited space and time to build trust and enable constructive dialogue, hindering longer-term progress towards shared goals in the industry. This is something that ESCF will continue to provide.” Looking ahead, the Forum plans to focus on co-developing solutions to pressing systemic barriers and showcasing tangible case studies that demonstrate what bold collaboration can achieve.

The project explored the opportunities and barriers in the fashion sector’s advancement towards circularity.
The project explored the opportunities and barriers in the fashion sector’s advancement towards circularity. Forum for the Future

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 18 April 2025
  • Last modified: 18 April 2025