Circularity was supposed to have been the decisive game-changer for the fashion industry. It was about the reimagining of production and consumption, where waste becomes resource, and endings morph into beginnings. Yet, despite the rhetoric and a growing list of industry commitments, something isn’t quite working. For all the talk of take-back schemes, recycled fibres and closed-loop systems, the volumes of waste keep climbing, and the linear model remains stubbornly intact.
Across boardrooms and well-hyped industry events, circularity is the buzzword. But on the ground, the translation of theories into practice is uneven—often token in gesture, and occasionally misguided and misplaced. The disconnect is hard to ignore—there are ambitious declarations and bombast at one end, and half-hearted measures and logistical deadlocks at the other. Somewhere between intention and implementation, the promise of circularity is getting lost in circles.
Yes, efforts are under way to understand why things are not working, and why so. One such endeavour has come from the Forum for the Future which launched its Enabling Systemic Circularity in Fashion (ESCF) project in 2023 to bring together diverse stakeholders from across the global fashion value chain to think, act and innovate together.
This ambitious initiative brought together manufacturers, brands, recyclers and knowledge partners to create a shared understanding of the barriers to circularity—and more importantly, to identify ways to break through them. With a mix of strategic futures thinking, honest dialogue and experimental prototyping, ESCF marked a turning point in how fashion collaborates to meet shared goals. Two key partners—Yee Chain International and Crystal International—share their journey through the project and the insights that could shape circularity’s future.
From Prior Efforts to Shared Aspirations
For some manufacturers like Taiwan’s big player, Yee Chain International, participating in ESCF was a logical next step. Their relationship with Forum for the Future began earlier through the Circular Leap Asia initiative (2018–2020), which aimed to empower Asian fashion manufacturers in scaling circular solutions. “When Forum approached us to participate in ESCF, it felt like a natural progression from Circular Leap Asia, to take a whole-of-industry diagnosis at the issues preventing circularity, and not just manufacturers’ role,” says Martin Su, Chief Sustainability Officer at Yee Chain.
The initial discussions among project members revolved around how to create an environment conducive to candid conversations. “One of the initial discussions, once the cohort of brands, manufacturers and knowledge partners had gathered, was on the project charter. This focused on principles for collaboration, including ensuring a safe space for dialogue, confidentiality and antitrust, values around respect and actively listening to others,” elaborates Su.
For major Hong Kong-based apparel manufacturer, Crystal International, the motivation was rooted in expanding its already active commitment to circularity. From launching a closed-loop denim collection to joining the Circulose Supplier Network, the manufacturer has steadily integrated circularity into its sustainability strategy. “We joined the ESCF project to contribute to the development of circularity strategies in fashion. We also hoped to deepen exchanges with other industry peers and learn from each other, so as to deploy our circularity plan more strategically,” notes a company spokesperson. The initial phase of the project helped stakeholders identify not just challenges, but also the structural opportunities that could enable deeper transformation.