Europe’s Hemp Value Chains Strengthen Through Technology and Collaboration

Across the globe, small processors emerge and collapse with alarming regularity. What explains the industry’s chronic inability to scale beyond pilots and prototypes into stable industrial supply chains?
Niels Baert: During our work in the hemp industry and the Hemp4Circularity project, we have learned from partners active in the textile industry that, on the one hand, the processing industry still needs to learn how to work with hemp fibre in order to deliver high-quality products and, on the othe, that demand among consumers and textile designers is still low.

As long as there is no demand or consumers are unfamiliar with hemp, we believe it will be difficult to move beyond prototypes. Furthermore, the cost price of a textile product made from natural fibres is higher than that of textiles made from synthetic fibres. Therefore, efforts must be made not only to optimise fibre production, but also to inform consumers about the impact of e.g. fast fashion.

The hemp value chain remains fragmented and regionally lopsided. Could international standard-setting bodies or trade agreements realistically rebalance processing power, or is the concentration effectively irreversible?
Niels Baert: It is true that hemp is grown in several regions in the world. For example, in the north of The Netherlands a well-established hemp industry is present. Farmers can grow hemp, and it is processed at companies like HempFlax and Dunagro. Farmers in Belgium can’t grow hemp for those companies as the cost for the transport of the hemp straw and the harvesting machine is too high to be profitable. So yes, you could say that the hemp value chain is fragmented in the Benelux.

However, in recent years, the mindset in Belgium has also been changing, with companies and farmers stepping up to make major investments (harvesting machines, processing units). The investments are supported by the Flemish government through, for example, subsidies or projects. But we also notice that, after a project has ended, the investments continue, which is positive and demonstrates that there is a future in hemp.

Much of hemp’s “sustainable fibre” image is based on agronomy, not textiles. How should sustainability claims be reframed once the fibre’s high energy needs, transport footprint, and processing chemicals are honestly accounted for?
Niels Baert: Within Hemp4Circularity, the Alliance for Flax-Linen and Hemp is working on a PEF calculation for European hemp. This calculation considers factors such as energy requirements and transport footprint. This calculation will provide valuable insights. In addition, we want to design truly sustainable hemp textiles that focus on the natural colour of hemp. This way, no dyes are needed. We also want to soften the fibres mechanically instead of using chemicals. All of this contributes positively to the sustainability of hemp textiles.

Beyond Fashion: Industrial users prioritise consistency and certification, but fashion thrives on marketing stories. Is the textile industry undermining hemp’s industrial future by pushing lifestyle narratives that don’t translate into material standards?
Niels Baert: The collaboration with Libeco and Safilin in Hemp4Circularity makes it clear that the high-end textile industry is also looking for a consistent fibre that maintains its quality year after year. This is the only way to deliver high-quality products every year. So, when we develop the story for hemp in textile products, we will also focus on this high and consistent quality. This is no different from hemp used in other materials. We must also move away from fast fashion. This is not sustainable in a world that needs to produce more sustainably.