Hemp

The bio-based textile economy is entering a decisive phase as technological innovation reshapes how natural fibres are harvested and processed. At the centre of this transformation is Niels Baert, Founder of Hyler, a Belgian company pioneering hybrid agricultural machinery for fibre crops. His insights reveal both the industry’s persistent challenges and the opportunities driving sustainable fibre production forward.

Europe’s hemp story has shifted from policy to performance. Farmers can now grow and process fibre, yet consistent buyers remain scarce. Between luxury weavers, mass-market converters and new industrial users, the market is searching for direction. Its future will depend on whether certification and diversification can turn enthusiasm into genuine, recurring demand.

Europe’s hemp boom has filled fields but left factories waiting. The region now grows tens of thousands of hectares of fibre crops, yet only a handful of facilities can refine them for textiles. Hemp’s challenge is no longer agronomy but engineering — how to build the machinery, skills, and scale that make a crop an industry.

Across Western Europe, fields of hemp are re-appearing beside the region’s long-trusted flax, but technical familiarity has yet to catch up with acreage. Farmers possess the land, machinery, and ambition—yet remain unsure how to turn stalks into stable income. For now, cultivation outpaces coordination, leaving Europe’s textile revival rooted more in hope than experience.

Fashion for Good has launched the Beyond50 Denim project with Bestseller, C&A, PDS Limited, Reformation and Target, combining SEFF’s cottonised hemp and Fibre52 chemistry to overcome handfeel barriers. With mills Bossa and Nice Denim involved, the initiative will rigorously test whether higher hemp content can match cotton’s performance in denim.

A key organisation playing a vital role in the hemp movement is Inagro, which provides research and advice in agriculture. Crop Researcher Sophie Waegebaert about the organisation's work with farmers, and the challenges facing hemp as an alternative textile fibre.

Hemp is emerging as a serious contender in Europe’s sustainable fibre narrative, yet its path to scale remains riddled with questions. Nathalie Revol, hemp project manager at Association Lin et Chanvre Bio, shares insights on land expansion, regulatory hurdles, and the realities of building market-ready textile fibres that can rival synthetics and achieve lasting credibility.

For over two decades, nonprofit Valbiom has worked to advance the bioeconomy in Wallonia and beyond, building bridges between farmers, researchers, industry, and policymakers. Despite proven expertise and pilot successes such as hemp textiles, scaling up remains constrained by political will and investment. In a conversation with texfash, Valentine Donck, Project Manager for Bio-based Textiles, explores challenges, opportunities, and strategies shaping Europe’s sustainable industrial future.

Seven natural fibre stakeholders have come together to appeal to the European Commission to put systems in place that will properly account for the environmental benefits of natural and organic fibres, and promote cooperation across EU institutions to support sustainable, resilient textile value chains.

A couple of friends and a stated goal — to fuse nature, technology, and science to redefine how materials are produced and used globally. The sophomore project was an “indignant” reaction at the colossal fashion waste during an internship which has since gone commercial with clients in the fashion, automotive and packaging industries. Revoltech’s hemp-based and biodegradable LOVR works as an ingredient brand for sustainable leather alternatives. texfash.com talks to its CEO and one of the Co-Founders Lucas Fuhrmann to know more.