Collection: Sea Change

Black Pigment from Wood Waste Races to Replace Petroleum-Based Carbon Black

A cleantech biochemical start-up Nature Coatings has given the world perhaps its first carbon-negative black pigment — the BioBlack TX — sourced from FSC certified wood waste. texfash.com talks to the Founder-CEO Jane Palmer on her journey this far.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • BioBlack has garnered worldwide acclaim and has been embraced by renowned fashion brands like the Kering Group, Levi's, Bestseller's Jack & Jones and Selected HOMME, as well as Vollebak.
  • In addition to the textiles industry, BioBlack TX can be applied in various other sectors, including paint, automotive, package printing, and more.
  • Nature Coatings claims that 4.62mln tonnes of CO2 could be mitigated each year if BioBlack TX replaced all carbon black used in plastics, inks, paint & coatings. It’s the equivalent of a car driving around the earth’s circumference more than 100,000 times
The Nature Coatings journey began with the vision of developing a bio-based black pigment that could compete on price and performance with harmful and petroleum-derived carbon black.
Nature-Positive The Nature Coatings journey began with the vision of developing a bio-based black pigment that could compete on price and performance with harmful and petroleum-derived carbon black. Nature Coatings

She’s been innovative since her childhood. As a kid she crafted paper from the invasive plant kudzu (Pueraria montana), and in high school, she created her own hairspray using lemon juice, sugar, and water, which surprisingly worked.

Much later, armed with a Master’s degree in textiles, Jane Palmer embarked on her entrepreneurial journey with a Los Angeles-based dye house, where they exclusively used traditional plant- and insect-based dyes steeped in history. These dyes, renowned from King Tut's tomb to the Mayans, proved enchanting but unsustainable due to issues like colour consistency, fading, cost, and water usage. Recognising the need for modern-day, high-performing and cost competitive solutions, she sold all of that to set out on her current venture, Nature Coatings.

When Jane started, little did she know that she would be that critical drop in providing a nature-based solution across some industries; nature-based solutions, according to the World Economic Forum, have the potential to deliver up to 37 per cent of the emission reductions needed by 2030 to limit global temperature increases to below 2 degrees Celsius.

Not surprisingly, Jane’s cleantech biochemical start-up has recently received a $2.45 million seed funding from some leading investors including actor and environmentalist Leonardo DiCaprio to help push adoption of its groundbreaking BioBlack TX — a unique carbon-negative black pigment sourced from FSC certified wood waste.

The other investors include Regeneration.VC, 22 Fund, Safer Made, and Portfolia. 

Jane has oft said, “Everything I design I want to be able to bury in my vegetable garden”, and she truly is doing that. 

BioBlack TX not only benefits the planet by being free of fossil fuels and sequestering more carbon dioxide than it emits, it also prioritises the health and well-being by containing non-detected Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) and carcinogens, and having less than 0.1% of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). 

  • With its cost-competitiveness and superior performance, BioBlack TX aids companies in their decarbonisation efforts and compliance with impending regulations like MRSLs (Manufacturing Restricted Substance Lists). 
  • In addition to the textiles industry, BioBlack TX can be applied in various other sectors, including paint, automotive, package printing, and more.

BioBlack has garnered worldwide acclaim and has been embraced by renowned fashion brands like the Kering Group, Levi's, Bestseller's Jack & Jones and Selected HOMME, as well as Vollebak.

texfash.com: What drew you to this field? How did you start?
Jane Palmer: I've always had a passion for creating innovative products using whatever is available and around me. I’ve had that kind of mentality – that we can make things that work a lot more simply and without harmful chemicals.  

My journey with Nature Coatings began with the vision of developing a bio-based black pigment that could compete on price and performance with harmful and petroleum-derived carbon black. Starting with that knowledge, I knew the bio feedstock had to come from a waste stream, for the product to be cost competitive.  So I started exploring dozens and dozens of different waste materials, taking one step at a time.

I committed my personal savings to Nature Coatings and secured a small angel investment in 2017. A significant turning point came when Nature Coatings was accepted into the Fashion for Good accelerator programme later that year. This opportunity allowed me to refine our product offerings in line with industry demands and attracted new investors, including Fashion for Good itself.

Please take us through the process  — explain the science of it in layman's language.
Jane Palmer: The science behind our process is simple. We transform wood waste into a 100% bio-based black pigment without any chemicals or added materials. While heat is a crucial element in our process, we don't incinerate the wood. Burning wood generates excessive CO2, and our method and resulting products are carbon negative. Once we obtain the pigment, we blend it into our exclusive 100% bio-based formula. To the best of our knowledge, we stand as the pioneering and sole company in the market to produce a 100% bio-based pigment dispersion.

As far as we know, we are the first and only company on the market to have made a 100% bio based pigment dispersion. We believe we are also the first and only to have a dispersion that is carbon negative.  

The First
The First Nature Coatings claims to be the first and only company to have made a 100% bio based pigment dispersion that is carbon negative. Nature Coatings

Are you working on a more diverse palette or will it always be black?
Jane Palmer: We are the experts in BioBlack and plan on remaining so.

How does the supply chain work and how transparent is it?
Jane Palmer: We know how important transparency is within our supply chain and have implemented rigorous measures to ensure it. Our commitment begins with the exclusive use of FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified wood waste for our pigment. FSC is a highly stringent third-party certification entity that meticulously tracks the origin of wood, right down to the forest source, while also verifying sustainable management practices from both environmental and societal perspectives.

Our process specifically focuses on utilising wood waste that is pre-consumer and comes from the lumber or paper industries as well as secondary wood manufacturers. We collect only the left-over scraps, such as the bark and the little branches, which maintain full traceability through the FSC's chain of custody system, further underscoring our dedication to transparency and sustainability.

What are the challenges faced this far — be it in terms of product, the research and development and finally the commercial roll out, and scalability of course?
Jane Palmer: We are a classic startup — every day brings fresh challenges and obstacles to overcome! Yet, this is what makes the startup journey so exhilarating. We have the opportunity to shape both our product and our path, and the rewards are as fulfilling as the challenges are demanding.

IMPACT

* -0.60 kg CO2e is the net negative carbon footprint of BioBlack TX pigment dispersion.
*4.62 millions tonnes of CO2 mitigated each year if BioBlack TX replaced all carbon black used in plastics, inks, paint and coatings. It’s the equivalent of a car driving around the earth’s circumference more than 100,000 times.

THIRD PARTY ANALYSIS

According to a third-party carbon footprint verified analysis, BioBlack TX has an 85% lower carbon footprint compared to petroleum-derived alternatives. It also has the unique ability to store carbon, leading to an even greater reduction in carbon emissions. It's a step beyond sustainability; it's actively healing our planet.

Our process specifically focuses on utilising wood waste that is pre-consumer and comes from the lumber or paper industries as well as secondary wood manufacturers. We collect only the left-over scraps, such as the bark and the little branches, which maintain full traceability through the FSC's chain of custody system, further underscoring our dedication to transparency and sustainability.

Jane Palmer
Founder-CEO
Nature Coatings
Jane Palmer

Which brands have joined your roster of clients? What is the feedback like? What are the changes/modifications that they have demanded since you started?
Jane Palmer: We have a steadfast commitment to rigorous testing before introducing anything to the market, ensuring its efficacy. As a result, the feedback we've received has been overwhelmingly positive, solidifying our unwavering confidence in our product's performance.

Our extensive collaborations span across the US and Europe, featuring prominent brands such as Levi’s, Jack & Jones, Vollebak, as well as several luxury brands under the Kering Group, among others.

What are the certifications that you have gone for?
Jane Palmer: Our current certifications include:

  • FSC wood waste certification, affirming our sustainable sourcing practices.
  • USDA BioPreferred certification, highlighting our products' 100% bio-based content.
  • Oeko-Tex ECO PASSPORT certification, ensuring the safety and sustainability of our materials.
  • Inclusion on the ZDHC Gateway MRSL v3, indicating our adherence to stringent chemical management standards.

We also have a third-party Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) study proving the carbon negativity of our products.

NATURE POSITIVE

BioBlack TX is a direct replacement for petroleum-based carbon black. Carbon black is the pigment used to give things a black colour. The way it’s made has not changed for over 100 years: derived from fossil fuels, it’s non-renewable, it poses health risks due to carcinogenic Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAHs), and contributes to significant CO2 emissions during its manufacturing process. 

TRACEABLE & RENEWABLE
  • Traceable: Contains wood waste from sustainably managed and certified sources, tracked during manufacturing and distribution.
  • Renewable: Made from renewable sources as opposed to petroleum-based alternatives.
  • Carbon negative: Demonstrates a net negative carbon footprint when compared to petroleum-derived carbon black.

Richa Bansal

RICHA BANSAL has more than 30 years of media industry experience, of which the last 20 years have been with leading fashion magazines in both B2B and B2C domains. Her areas of interest are traditional textiles and fabrics, retail operations, case studies, branding stories, and interview-driven features.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 21 September 2023
  • Last modified: 3 September 2024