Collection: Sea Change

Making Cleaner Textiles: Tersus Has a Closed-Loop Cleaning System

Tersus Solutions, founded in 2009, supports a wide variety of needs by leveraging its proprietary CO2 platform that preserves water and electricity, sanitises or sterilises, captures contaminates and microfibres, and ultimately extends the life of textiles. Steve Madsen, Founder and CTO, and Peter Whitcomb, CEO, speak at length about how the future lies in technology.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Tersus has built a full suite of services, such as waterless cleaning, repairs, finishing services, fulfillment services, product identification services, amongst many others.
  • The company claims to have intentionally filled a gap in the market to be a “one-stop-shop” for all things used textiles.
  • Brands must adopt this cleaning technology if they are serious about circularity, resale, and impact on the environment.
The Tersus Solutions CO2 platform offers amazing capabilities – this is in large part due to the amazing nature of CO2. When pressurised, carbon dioxide (CO2) becomes a liquid (LCO2) and at even higher pressures become super-critical (scCO2).
Making it Possible The Tersus Solutions CO2 platform offers amazing capabilities – this is in large part due to the amazing nature of CO2. When pressurised, carbon dioxide (CO2) becomes a liquid (LCO2) and at even higher pressures become super-critical (scCO2). By leveraging these three phases of CO2, many processes once considered impossible can be achieved. Tersus Solutions

texfash: When Tersus was founded in 2009, it was about building a better CO2 textile cleaning machine. Fifteen years down the line, how much has Co2 cleantech developed, say both in your organisation itself as well as industry-wide?
Steve Madsen and Peter Whitcomb:  We would contend that our CO2 cleantech has developed more than the broader industry since 2009. Specifically, the broader industry is generally using the first generation of CO2 equipment from when it first came into the market for textile cleaning. In contrast, we are on our 8th generation of the Tersus liquid CO2 cleaning equipment. The Tersus equipment has progressed both in terms of physical design and process efficiency. That said, we still operate our prototype and estimate that it has over 50,000 cycles on it since we launched. 

Given that Tersus has expanded its horizons in terms of products/services, it would seem that the textiles industry has been proactive in adopting cleantech. Would that be a fair assessment or assumption?
Steve and Peter: Yes, today we serve three different textile industries with our liquid CO2 waterless cleantech. We leverage our technology: to clean and restore secondhand items from leading brands and retailers, to decontaminate firefighter gear and other PPE, and revive post-consumer raw down after extracting it from clothing and bedding.

We have seen strong product-market fit in all of these markets and in some cases, such as firefighter gear, our technology is the only and best way to properly decontaminate the gear. Historically, firefighters cleaned their gear in water. Water can only remove about 55% of the carcinogens, such as PAHs and VOCs, in the gear. In contrast, our tech removes over 98% of those harmful contaminants. As a result, we are seeing significant adoption of our technology in this sector.

Similarly, in the recommerce space, brands who launch or scale a resale business typically want to clear their used products. Using traditional water based cleaning and conventional drying can be quite environmentally wasteful. Our tech addresses those challenges head-on, and is a major reason why brands such as The North Face, Arc’terxy, New Balance, Cotopaxi, and dozens of others partner with us to be the backbone of their recommerce businesses. 

Allow me to go back a bit... to before Tersus was launched. All we know is what happened in 2009 and later. But please tell us how the concept itself came about and how that concept translated into a product/company in 2009.
Steve and Peter: The technology was spun out of the military in the mid-1990s. It was originally used to clean high tech metal parts. In an effort to monetise the technology outside of military applications, licenses were issued to four equipment manufacturing companies to commercialise LCO2 (liquid CO2) cleaning in the textile industry. Specifically targeted was the drycleaning industry which was a source of some EPA “superfund” cleanup sites due to ground and water contamination from perchlorethylene, which had been the predominant drycleaning solvent used.

I (Steve) got involved with the technology in 2004 when I launched Revolution Cleaners in Denver with a group of visionary partners. LCO2 was the centrepiece of the business, with Revolution Cleaners utilising the first generation machines. While I was a fan of the technology, I felt the machines were lacking and set out to build a better machine. In 2009 what would become Tersus Solutions was launched, with the first machine going into service in 2011.

Tersus launched Cleaning as a Service (CaaS) for high-end brands and outdoor apparel companies in 2018. How did this particular transition happen. And more importantly, why indeed. Was it an organic evolution in some way? After all, you had been working with Patagonia for a while.
Steve and Peter: The transformation started gradually and opportunistically. In January 2013, I (Steve) was in Los Angeles running trials on clean room laundry for a project with Aramark and the California Energy Commission. Running test cycles at the back of the plant at Aramark’s South LA facility, I received a call from Randy Harward, who was head of R&D at Patagonia. Randy stated that they had a new type of waterproof down in a special belay jacket that was losing performance when washed in traditional methods. He had been given my number and wanted to know if Tersus could clean it without detriment to the characteristics of the jacket. Randy relayed that they were going to market in March, and wanted to have a solution prior to the release of the jacket.

After gathering a bit more information, I believed Tersus could do the job. Randy drove from Ventura to South LA that day with a sample. Tests were done which demonstrated actual improvement to the loft and performance of the down. Tersus put in place a programme for cleaning these exceptional jackets, and Patagonia was able to launch the product on schedule. We still clean these jackets to this day. From there, Patagonia launched their Worn Wear Program in 2015, cleaning these used items with Tersus, and Trove contacted Tersus to clean used REI sleeping gear in 2017.

In 2014, Tersus Solutions was contacted by the Belgian Federal Government to clean Firefighter Turnout gear for a test to see what was the best way to remove PaH’s and VOC’s from the garments post incident. In the course of four tests Tersus Solutions proved that their process was the best way to remove these carcinogens in comparison to any other method of cleaning, achieving 95%+ removal compared to only 55% removal in traditional laundry methods. Tersus Solutions continues to be the trailblazing force in firefighter and PPE gear decontamination to this day.

Moving to 2016, cleaning raw down without water became a shared goal between Tersus Solutions and a commercial partner. Based on this experience, it was noticed by Tersus Solutions that there was an opportunity to supply the outdoor industry with a high quality recycled down product. Tersus Solutions successfully set out to supply a recycled down product that is equal to, or better than new virgin down.

So, in 2018, Tersus Solutions made a pivot to become our own customer, using our technology to enter the recommerce market, the fire turnout gear decontamination market, and the recycled down market. We haven’t looked back since. 

You now offer a range, or rather a full suite, of services. Is that how it needs to work? Because a product in itself or in isolation may not mean much, and end-to-end solutions would be more acceptable and practical for a client?
Steve and Peter: Yes, we ultimately want to be the optimal first and last touch on a used item before it reaches an end customer. As a result, we have built a full suite of services, such as waterless cleaning, repairs, finishing services, fulfillment services, product identification services, amongst many others, to ensure that nearly every product we receive ends up on the best and most profitable path for Tersus and our customers. We have intentionally filled a gap in the market to be a “one-stop-shop” for all things used textiles.

Steve Madsen
Steve Madsen
Founder and CTO
Tersus Solutions

Today we serve three different textile industries with our liquid CO2 waterless cleantech. We leverage our technology: to clean and restore secondhand items from leading brands and retailers, to decontaminate firefighter gear and other PPE, and revive post-consumer raw down after extracting it from clothing and bedding.

As far as cleantech is concerned, which sector within the textiles-fashion industry is driving change. In some other instances, the driving force are brands/retailers. They want something or have certain requirements, and then they pressure manufacturers to adopt certain technologies and then this has a cascading effect all downstream. Is that how it works in this case too? Please elaborate.
Steve and Peter: In the cleantech space it is a mix of startups, innovative service providers and to a lesser extent, brands and retailers. Legislation plays a role as well and we are starting to see some state level movement more around textile waste versus cleantech per se. For example, California recently passed SB 707 and The Responsible Textile Recovery Act (AB 405). 

Talk about cleantech can be intimidating: money, time, etc. So how expensive/affordable is your technology (I am talking only about your CO2 platform in this case). This begs a related question: would it soon be a question of haves and have-nots? In the sense that those who can afford cleantech will remain in business, and those who can't will fade away?
Steve and Peter: Our cleaning tech is fairly expensive in terms of purchasing the equipment, but is quite accessible in terms of accessing it through Tersus as a service provider. We are on average a lower cost service provider than a good neighbourhood dry cleaner. We do think that brands must adopt this cleaning technology if they are serious about circularity, resale, and impact on the environment. 

The Tersus of today is very different, especially with Recommerce appearing to be the mainstay of the company (backed by tech, of course). So, how does Terus position itself in industry today? And also, according to you, is Recommerce going to be now most of the textiles-fashion industry will work in the days to come, given that circularity is the prism through which one looks at things these days?
Steve and Peter: We exist to keep textiles in use as long as possible, whether a used The North Face Nuptse jacket, post-consumer down, or a firefighter’s set of gear. That is our north star and our cleaning technology enables us to do that better than anyone in the world today. We do believe recommerce is table stakes for premium brands to stay relevant over the next decade.

On the tech side, we continue to develop new processes and identify new markets. Once we position ourselves with the proper strategic commercial partners, we will launch new verticals. These areas will include raw fibre processing, commercial and industrial laundry, medical applications, and general toxic cleanup. 

But please do also tell us how the Recommerce offering from Tersus works. If I were a brand, why should I be interested in your solutions? How does it make life easier for me?
Steve and Peter: We make recommerce for brands profitable, easy, and scalable. We also are obsessed about quality and ensuring our customers and their customers are constantly delighted. Given we offer all of our services under one roof, we are the best first and last stop for a used item. Every touch of an item must be value-add in the truest sense, meaning it makes the item better and makes the brand money, otherwise we path to next best use destinations. Our cleaning tech is, in a sense, the cherry on top. It is simply the best and most environmentally friendly way to clean textiles.

Peter Whitcomb
Peter Whitcomb
Chief Executive Officer
Tersus Solutions

The technology was spun out of the military in the mid-1990s. It was originally used to clean high tech metal parts. In an effort to monetise the technology outside of military applications, licenses were issued to four equipment manufacturing companies to commercialise LCO2 (liquid CO2) cleaning in the textile industry.

 
 
  • Dated posted: 20 February 2025
  • Last modified: 20 February 2025