Decarbonisation in Textile Finishing: Engineering Solutions for a High-Impact Transition

Textile finishing is one of the most energy-intensive stages in manufacturing, demanding vast thermal and electrical inputs. As Axel Pieper of Brückner Textilemaschinen explained at the conference, the problem is not only how we power these processes—but what we power. Most factories rely on Stenter machines, whose size and capacity mean they are mostly found in South and East Asia, where scale and cost-efficiency dictate investment.

Pieper’s message was clear: swapping energy sources alone is not enough. Hydrogen, ammonia, and other so-called E-fuels—green hydrogen (H₂), green ammonia (NH₃), green methanol (CH₃OH), and biogas (CH₄)—have not yet proved viable at scale for textile finishing. Indeed, Pieper voiced deep scepticism, calling current faith in green hydrogen “optimistic at best.”

Instead, Brückner proposes a re-engineering-first strategy: start by designing machinery that consumes less energy (or better still, re-consumes its own energy), and only then consider the fuels used. Their high-performance Stenter, developed using a digital twin tool called ExperTex, shows significant results.

Digital Twin for Process Optimisation: The ExperTex Approach

The ExperTex system virtually simulates machinery performance under varied conditions. Its framework includes:

1. Preparation: Selection of textile properties, chemical processes, and machinery.
2. Simulation: Models for maximum productivity and minimum energy consumption.
3. Scenario Analysis: Calculates lead times, costs, and outcomes across production models.
4. Footprint Balances: Measures CO₂ and water impacts.
5. Production Transfer: Applies the optimised recipe to physical production.

The simulations yielded compelling data. By integrating smart heat reuse and scenario modelling, Brückner’s high-efficiency machine achieves an estimated €4,500/day in energy cost savings when operating at 100,000m per day. Over a 200-day annual production cycle, that translates to approximately €900,000 in savings—a major margin shift in a cost-sensitive industry.

The Numbers Behind Efficiency

Slide data from Brückner presented a carbon footprint analysis comparing base and high-performance machines. Key takeaways included:

• Machine production contributes <1% to CO₂ footprint.
• Machine efficiency impacts >30% of emissions reduction.
• Power generation source accounts for >45% of total CO₂e.

Critically, even under the same fuel conditions (e.g., natural gas), the high-performance machine halved the CO₂ emissions compared to standard machines. This is a compelling case for hardware modernisation, not simply fuel substitution.

However, energy transition is not just technical—it is deeply political and economic. Presenter Sergio Grau from Evolutia Activos outlined the barriers facing the European textile sector:

• Energy prices in Spain are 2–3x higher than in France or Germany.
• Short-term political decisions, focused on populist appeal, divert focus from long-term energy planning.
• Policy volatility undermines investment in renewables or efficient machinery.

The most likely explanation? As the presentation ironically noted: “Hanlon’s Razor”—never attribute to malice what can be explained by shortsightedness.

What Policy Tools Work?

Amid these challenges, success stories from Italy and France provide clues. Through Energy Saving Certifications—the Titoli di Efficienza Energetica (TEE) in Italy and Certificats d’Économies d’Énergie (CEE) in France—energy providers are incentivised to help industrial users cut consumption.

This model aligns commercial incentives (provider profits) with ecological goals (reduced emissions). Additional mechanisms include:

• Guarantees of Origin (GoO) for renewable energy
• Grants for carbon footprint reduction
• Subsidies for energy-efficient machinery

Such tools point to a useful model: aligning industrial and environmental goals through state-backed financial incentives.

Practical Strategies for Decarbonisation

Policy incentives are helpful, but what can factories do today? Evolutia Activos outlined a four-step action plan:

1. Optimise contracting: Use professional services to reduce energy procurement costs.
2. Conduct energy audits: Identify production inefficiencies through ISO 50001 or other frameworks.
3. Invest in energy monitoring: Adopt systems like ECRAS to track energy in real time.
4. Engage with incentives: Monitor available EU/national grants and ensure compliance with regulatory frameworks.

A key piece of advice: avoid ad-hoc green upgrades. Solar panels, biomass, or ‘eco’ machines may disappoint if not embedded in a strategic energy plan. Without integration, the gains are often illusory.

The session also included a spotlight on the Scandinavian Textile Initiative for Climate Action (STICA). This consortium of Nordic fashion and textile businesses offers a clear roadmap for SMEs, balancing climate reporting, governance engagement, and target setting. Their 2024 Progress Report underscores the value of transparent, measurable, and cooperative climate action across borders.

From Compliance to Competitiveness

While the engineering innovations offer promise, Pieper also expressed concerns over the shift from an open market to a planned (regulated) market, driven by legislation. His critique underscores the tension between innovation-led transition and policy-led compulsion—a dynamic likely to define the next phase of the industry’s climate response.

The transition to decarbonised textile finishing is no longer a distant ideal—it is technically feasible today. However, the business case depends on strategic alignment across engineering, policy, and procurement.

In Pieper’s words, choosing between traditional and optimised machinery is like driving a Golf versus a Ferrari. Performance, in this case, is not just speed—but emissions, cost, and future compliance.

The key message? Carbon emission reduction of textile finishing (the highest carbon emitter) is technically possible. The question is how—and whether—it becomes economically viable. If the industry gets this right, energy efficiency will no longer be a compliance cost—it will be a competitive advantage.

As one audience member aptly summarised: “It’s a continuous journey towards continual improvement.”