ZDHC Evokes Scientific Concerns, Includes PFAS in Upgraded Restricted Substances List

Notable changes in the ZDHC MRSL Version 3.0, to be published this November, include restriction on all PFAS substances for textile, leather, and footwear finishing, a limit for aniline in dyestuffs and the inclusion of a number of organic solvents. texfash.com reports.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • This announcement highlights the expected changes for MRSL Version 3.0 which will be released on the Roadmap to Zero website.
  • The ZDHC MRSL Version 3.0 follows two previous updates of the ZDHC MRSL which achieved industry-wide alignment through a gap analysis of previously existing brand-specific MRSLs.
  • The ZDHC MRSL bans certain harmful chemical substances from intentional use in manufacturing facilities that process textile materials, synthetic leather, leather, and trim parts in textiles and footwear.
The ZDHC MRSL offers the industry a harmonised list of banned chemical substances and enables the ZDHC Gateway Chemical Module, the industry’s largest list of safer alternative chemical formulations meeting the ZDHC MRSL requirement.
Harmonised Ban The ZDHC MRSL offers the industry a harmonised list of banned chemical substances and enables the ZDHC Gateway Chemical Module, the industry’s largest list of safer alternative chemical formulations meeting the ZDHC MRSL requirement. Julia Koblitz / Unsplash

The ZDHC has included PFAS treatments used for textiles, leather, and footwear in a new list of harmful chemical substances which would be added to the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL) in Version 3.0.

  • This announcement highlights the expected changes for MRSL Version 3.0 which will be released on the Roadmap to Zero website.
  • The updated ZDHC MRSL V3.0 will be published by ZDHC on 1 November 2022 with a transition period of 12 months for effective implementation by all stakeholders.
  • The ZDHC MRSL Version 3.0 follows two previous updates of the ZDHC MRSL which achieved industry-wide alignment through a gap analysis of previously existing brand-specific MRSLs.  
  • Notable changes include a restriction on all PFAS substances, a limit for aniline in dyestuffs and the inclusion of a number of organic solvents.

The restricted list: The ZDHC MRSL bans certain harmful chemical substances from intentional use in manufacturing facilities that process textile materials, synthetic leather, leather, and trim parts in textiles and footwear.

  • It offers the industry a harmonised list of banned chemical substances and enables the ZDHC Gateway Chemical Module, the industry’s largest list of safer alternative chemical formulations meeting the ZDHC MRSL requirement.
  • By using MRSL conformant chemical formulations found on the ZDHC Gateway, suppliers can assure their customers that they adhere to the requirements of the ZDHC MRSL, speeding up the industry’s journey on its course towards a better environmental footprint.
  • The independent MRSL Advisory Council (MAC) composed of industry, NGO, and academic experts used a science-based process for updating the ZDHC MRSL. The MAC made the final decisions regarding the substances added to the list and their limit values.

What they said:

The new ZDHC MRSL Version 3.0 sets a clear and unified signal for the apparel and footwear sector of the chemistries that need to be avoided across this and other manufacturing sectors as well as where innovation is needed. The restriction on all PFAS for textile, leather, and footwear finishing is consistent with growing scientific and policy concerns about the impacts of the class of PFAS chemicals.

Joel Tickner
Professor of Public Health / Executive Director
University of Massachusetts Lowell / Green Chemistry & Commerce Council

ZDHC MRSL Version 3.0 remains contemporary with the inclusion of newer chemicals of concern and reducing the permissible limits for impurities. This has been possible as the industry is moving towards cleaner production. Notably all the listed PFAS (Per & Poly fluorinated alkylated) chemicals, commonly known as “forever chemicals“ have been moved from the candidate list into the main list. This is a significant change which will be better for the environment.

Ullhas M Nimkar
President/ Member
The Society of Dyers and Colourists  / ZDHC MRSL Council

It is critical for chemical formulators of the textile, leather, and footwear industry to align with one global MRSL. The benefit to chemical formulators is that they don’t need to deal with multiple hazardous substance specifications and limits which simplifies chemical management processes.

Amy Huang
Head of Product Stewardship Division
Everlight Chemical Industrial Corporation

 
 
  • Dated posted: 17 September 2022
  • Last modified: 17 September 2022