UKFT Releases Report on Textile and Apparel Dyeing to Promote Collaboration Between Brands and Innovators

The UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) has come out with a report that aims to encourage innovators, brands, retailers and manufacturers to work together so that the industry can collectively achieve environmental impact reduction goals.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Textile dyeing and finishing accounts for 20% of global clean water pollution, and wet processes account for 15% of the fashion industry’s overall GHG emissions.
  • Cleaner production methods, decarbonisation, and circularity are not just essential to meet the UK’s sustainability agenda but also to support global climate ambitions and SDGs.
Textile dyeing and finishing accounts for 20% of global clean water pollution, and wet processes account for 15% of the fashion industry’s overall GHG emissions.
Colours of Pollution Textile dyeing and finishing accounts for 20% of global clean water pollution, and wet processes account for 15% of the fashion industry’s overall GHG emissions. These are staggering figures which highlight the detrimental effect that this part of the fashion production process has on the planet. Engin Akyurt / Unsplash

The UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) has released a report that aims to motivate global collaboration networks between innovators, brands and retailers, and textile and apparel supply chains to help the UK accelerate towards a circular fashion and textile ecosystem and meet climate targets.

  • It encourages the industry to imagine a shift in traditional methods and foster innovation.

THE REPORT: The Innovations in Textile and Apparel Dyeing report focuses on the crucial sub-sector of textile and apparel dyeing, which is essential for decarbonisation and resource circularity in the textiles and apparel industry.

  • While recognising the importance of cleaner production and circular practices in reducing environmental impact during yarn, textile and garment manufacturing, the report is intended as a point of reference for the textile and apparel industry, with the end goal of encouraging greener dyeing capacity in domestic and international textile and apparel manufacturing facilities.
  • The report talks about the urgency for industry to adopt “cleaner” production technologies that have come up in recent times and also features some of them.
  • The report uncovers some of the latest expertise, innovations and best practices to promote cleaner production and green growth in textile and apparel manufacturing supply chains.
  • This report has been produced through the Circular Fashion Innovation Network. CFIN is an industry-led programme led by the UKFT and the British Fashion Council in partnership with UK Research and Innovation.
  • It has been authored by UKFT’s Lauren Junestrand, Innovation and Sustainability Network Manager, Sadikchya Singh, Sustainability and Innovation Executive, Tara Hounslea, Director of Communications, and designed by Laura Tobin, Creative Executive.

WHY CLEANER PRODUCTION METHODS: Cleaner production methods, decarbonisation, and circularity are not just essential for meeting the UK’s sustainability agenda but also for supporting global climate ambitions and SDGs.

  • Textile dyeing and finishing accounts for 20% of global clean water pollution, and wet processes account for 15% of the fashion industry’s overall GHG emissions. These are staggering figures which highlight the detrimental effect that this part of the fashion production process has on the planet.
  • Innovations in dyeing technologies and colouration have the potential to not only keep the waters cleaner, but also reduce the amount of water and energy consumed compared with the industry’s current and historic methods of dyeing.

Adopting cleaner production practices consists of taking actions that can minimise the risk towards humans and the environment across supply chains. Cleaner production practices include:

  • reducing GHG emissions,
  • using water and energy more efficiently (i.e. reduction in water and electric power consumption) and
  • reducing and reusing waste (i.e. minimising wastewater).

In a textile and apparel manufacturing context, this could mean: energy efficiency, the reduction in carbon intensity of energy supplies, switching from non-renewable to renewable resources, increasing the efficiency of existing technologies, substituting existing machinery to one that is more efficient or optimising/replacing chemicals, among others.

FOCUS AREA: Overall, fashion-industrial efficiency is one of the biggest areas of intervention to reduce supply chain GHG emissions and can help achieve sustainable development goals.

  • Cleaner production in the dyeing stage is of particular importance to reduce environmental impact.
  • Overall, implementing Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control (IPPC) principles in management, machinery modification and chemical optimisations/replacements and improving wastewater recovery and reuse, help achieve environmental impact reduction at this stage.

HOW TO DO IT: The report makes some good recommendations on how to go about it.

  • What’s needed is Chief Executive Officers, not just sustainability teams, to demand full transparency from supply chains, down to wet processes and beyond.
  • CEOs should refuse to engage with any supply chain lacking transparency or wet processing facilities failing to meet effluent discharge requirements and other basic standards.
  • What is also needed is strict criteria for energy and water usage and, if brands could agree to enforce compliance with agreed eco-efficiency standards in the same way that they enforce restricted substances standards, the industry would have to improve.
  • Brands need to collaborate to drive the dyeing industry to improve – agreeing and enforcing tough standards will be far better for the planet than endorsing specific technologies.

INNOVATIONS THAT WORK: Some of the technology innovations that it talks about when it comes to sustainable dyeing methods:

AirDye technology saves 95% of water, 86% of energy, and 84% of carbon emissions compared to conventional dyeing and printing methods. The technology:

  • Uses air instead of water to penetrate dyes into fabric.
  • Uses no pre- or post-chemical treatments necessary.
  • Uses no screens in production.

Plasma technology uses plasma or ionised gas to improve the dyeing process of textiles.

  • This treatment modifies the surface of textile fibres to increase dye uptake and fixation.
  • It is a dry process that can be conducted under atmospheric or low-pressure conditions in an energy efficient manner without the need for additional chemicals.
  • Also, plasma treated textiles exhibit better colour fastness and are suitable for various fibres.

Dyeing indigo yarn ultrasound technology: The process begins by loading dry textiles and dyes into a pre-heated vessel. CO2 is then pumped into the vessel at the desired pressure, and supercritical CO2 (SC-CO2 ) circulates through the system for about 30 minutes, completing the dyeing process.

  • After dyeing, the textile is levelled, CO2 is de-pressurised and recycled. This saves over 95% of the CO2.
  • The dyed textile is then removed, and the system is prepared for the next cycle.
  • The process operates at temperatures between 80 to 120ºC and pressures of 200 to 250 bar, with specific conditions adjusted based on the desired textile colour.

Significance of nanotechnology: Nanotechnology uses nanoparticles to penetrate fibres more effectively. This improves dye uptake and reduces the amount of dye that is typically used.

  • The process is energy and resource-efficient, requiring lower temperatures and fewer chemicals.
  • Plus, textiles treated with nanotechnology also gain additional properties such as antibacterial, UV protection, and water and stain resistance.

It is crucial for textile and apparel manufacturers, brands, retailers, and innovators to collaboratively adopt strategic approaches that prioritise sustainability in the dyeing stage.

  • By securing investments in sustainable technologies, establishing long-term commercial relationships, and collaborating with innovators, these stakeholders can drive significant advancements in the industry.
  • Implementing these strategies within existing industrial frameworks and products and conducting pilot programmes will ensure that new technologies and colour innovations are both practical and effective, ultimately leading to a greener future for textile and apparel dyeing.

THE CONTEXT: Within textile and apparel manufacturing, the wet processing stage is recognised as one of the most polluting.

  • It contributes to 15% of the GHG emissions of textile and apparel supply chains.
  • Plus, the process requires huge amounts of water and energy, leading to resource consumption and waste production at each step.
  • Additionally, it involves the use of numerous dyes, chemicals and auxiliary substances.
  • Thus, wet textile processing yields various waste streams that include liquid, gaseous and solid byproducts that are potentially hazardous for both the environment and humans.

WHAT THEY SAID:

For a sustainable future in textile dyeing, it is essential that manufacturers, brands and innovators collaborate to capitalise on the benefits of these innovations. However, it is equally important to address fundamental challenges, such as improving industrial efficiency and promoting cleaner production methods.

Adam Mansell
Chief Executive Officer
UK Fashion and Textile Asociation

Brands and retailers must take responsibility for their manufacturing practices, irrespective of geographical locations. Acknowledging the hidden consequences of globalisation, we must ensure that offshore production does not translate to offshore pollution. It’s crucial for brands to prioritise responsible manufacturing, emphasising environmental concerns and recognising the impact of their operations on a global scale.

Jason Hallett
Professor, Department of Chemical Engineering (Sustainable Chemical Technology)
Imperial College London

Innovations in Textile and Apparel Dyeing
Innovations in Textile and Apparel Dyeing
Technology and Colour
  • Edited by:

    Lauren Junestrand, Sadikchya Singh, Tara Hounslea

  • Publisher: UK Fashion and Textile Association
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  • Dated posted: 18 September 2024
  • Last modified: 18 September 2024